Help!! High nitrates

Keeks09

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Whats the best way to quickly reduce nitrates? I did a filter change 2 days ago with a 17% water change i added api nitra-zorb yesterday and all of the fish ate some this morning but at lunch time the coral beauty was dead.
Salinity 1.024
Ph 8.0
Ammonia .5
Nitrate 160
Fish, water, and live rock were all added from the established tank where the 3 tangs, coral beaury, 2 clowns and an urchin came from a 55g tank and put in a 75g tank.
Should i use a seachem prime or instance ocean nitrate removal??
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You have ammonia. Your tank is cycling. Your tank has been set up a couple weeks at most? You can use Prime to detoxify the ammonia and nitrates and water changes to keep the levels low, but you need to establish a bio-filter. That's a lot of fish for a new tank.

Also, did you say "3 tangs"?
 
Yep. Try doing a large water change ASAP. Also try getting your water tested by an LFS or buy a new kit. Mine expired once and it read 100 for nitrates. I panicked and did a WC. I got it tested with another kit. I was at 10.
 
You probably don't want to hear this, but you should get those fish out of that tank. Take them to a local fish store or find someone with a large established tank to hold them. Your tank needs time to build a bacterial filter, which takes time, and then you should sloooooowly add fish. Start with one, after ammonia and nitrites are zero.
 
I used the water and live rock from the persons tank i got them from. They had to get rid of thwir whole system so i have my tank with their rock,water, and fish. I moved my water into a different tank to allow it to cycle to split the fish up. These were all added Saturday morning
 
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Too much too fast. Your water doesn't need to cycle, your rocks do. Even though you used live rock it still needs time to adjust to a new tank after moving. You are exposing different surfaces to different flow and possibly exposing surfaces that had anaerobic bacteria on them. I am guessing that your sand has probably not ever cycled. Need to get the stressed fish and corals to a proper tank soon.
 
Ill play advocate

nitrate shows a nitrogen cycle is in place

for sixteen years we find api misread after misread after misread on ammonia. seen some red sea ones too. don't see many salifert ones, S ammonia is great and reliable.

persistent ammonia in the presence of nitrate, any amnt, is interesting when bottled bacteria have not been added.

I think your test is picking up total ammonia not the bad kind, you initiated a skip cycle and really haven't broken rules as long as you didn't introduce new fish without quarantine. cutting it close lol, but I can see you didn't move over a filthy sandbed.


we should confirm your ammonia results. if the fish is pushing it truly then ok, but you mentioned the rock already came from that level of bioload so it was a reasonable assertion. can you get some other diff type of ammonia reading on that tank and post

we expect heavy opercular motion, obvious fish stress, and a real tank smell from true .5 says our thread on reading ammonia levels without a test kit.

there's another universal suspicion to rule out when dealing with seemingly persistent ammonia, among systems that are so ammonia hungry the oxidation can be measured by the hour: the fact that they will digest 1 or 2 ppm right now if you injected it into that tank, yet for some reason cannot oxidize the final .25 or the .5 however its interpreted.

cycles don't freeze like that, that which is linear doesn't just suddenly drop off because a test kit read under fluorescent lights said so (just mentioning confounds for the reading)

you should have water clouding at this level. micro benthic creatures, fanworms on the live rock, all closed up tight.

no corals will open in true .5 sustained.


it takes a massive bioload to cause true curious as to verified readings of ammonia

Live rock creates and retains its own detritus via the tenants, and in many reef tanks the flow isn't sufficient to rid it all.

when we lift/position/move we liberate lots of that in a tank move, spiking the reading above normal baselines isn't crazy sounding.

that combined with your fish bioload, and no natural nitrate reduction possible yet, standard nitrate readings show. A giant water change is what I would do, id pay the lfs to truck me over plenty of made up water, just my take. I think you mentioned moving over old water, good call on the bacteria transfer as if for sure brings some. Tank water has millions of nitrifiers in it via association with the floc that constitutes reef water. source and topoff water can be checked for nitrate import as well.

I was about to accuse him of violating nine treatise on quarantine but I read its a full tank transfer, and we like those lol
 
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Ill play advocate

nitrate shows a nitrogen cycle is in place

for sixteen years we find api misread after misread after misread on ammonia. seen some red sea ones too. don't see many salifert ones, S ammonia is great and reliable.

persistent ammonia in the presence of nitrate, any amnt, is interesting when bottled bacteria have not been added.

I think your test is picking up total ammonia not the bad kind, you initiated a skip cycle and really haven't broken rules as long as you didn't introduce new fish without quarantine. cutting it close lol, but I can see you didn't move over a filthy sandbed.


we should confirm your ammonia results. if the fish is pushing it truly then ok, but you mentioned the rock already came from that level of bioload so it was a reasonable assertion. can you get some other diff type of ammonia reading on that tank and post

we expect heavy opercular motion, obvious fish stress, and a real tank smell from true .5 says our thread on reading ammonia levels without a test kit.

there's another universal suspicion to rule out when dealing with seemingly persistent ammonia, among systems that are so ammonia hungry the oxidation can be measured by the hour: the fact that they will digest 1 or 2 ppm right now if you injected it into that tank, yet for some reason cannot oxidize the final .25 or the .5 however its interpreted.

cycles don't freeze like that, that which is linear doesn't just suddenly drop off because a test kit read under fluorescent lights said so (just mentioning confounds for the reading)

you should have water clouding at this level. micro benthic creatures, fanworms on the live rock, all closed up tight.

no corals will open in true .5 sustained.


it takes a massive bioload to cause true curious as to verified readings of ammonia

Live rock creates and retains its own detritus via the tenants, and in many reef tanks the flow isn't sufficient to rid it all.

when we lift/position/move we liberate lots of that in a tank move, spiking the reading above normal baselines isn't crazy sounding.

that combined with your fish bioload, and no natural nitrate reduction possible yet, standard nitrate readings show. A giant water change is what I would do, id pay the lfs to truck me over plenty of made up water, just my take. I think you mentioned moving over old water, good call on the bacteria transfer as if for sure brings some. Tank water has millions of nitrifiers in it via association with the floc that constitutes reef water. source and topoff water can be checked for nitrate import as well.

Agreed. My only question at this point is how long was the previous system was running. Swapping tanks isn't a big deal so long as you keep an eye on certain pain points like your sandbed and potentially adding bottled bacteria to replace some of your losses.

+1 on API (assuming those are the kits being used). My API ammonia kit has always shown .25 ppm
 
cody your great post in the chem forum today reminded me about testers and the scope at which they reflect. total ammonia vs other species, nice. sure might explain a large repository of bad .25 api readings on goog, Ive wondered if a tiny bit of nitrate could show up as a .25 I dunno, but there's lots of the posts around and your stated readings align.

it throws confusion when some are able to post solid yellow zero readings too...by and large we like to verify any way possible regardless of brand but I really never question a salifert readings ran correctly.
 
So ammonia is now 0
Ph 8
Nitrite 0
Nitrate is still 160 unless im reading it wrong
Anemones are out as well as some of my corals .
The established tank it came from was 5 years old.
Ive been using the seachem stability also
a3bbf36f159946cc7d279711dee16e70.jpg
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Do you have a skimmer on this tank? If not, it's time to get one.

Here's some information on reducing NO3:

https://blog.marinedepot.com/2014/09/nitrate-removal-reef-aquarium.html

I would do a 20% volume water change, possibly vacuum your sand when doing it and get some Prodibio Biodigest and follow the instructions.

The water change should help right away.
 
Are you sure nitrites are zero. Anytime I have had nitrites with the api test kit ,nitrates are very high. I think it gives a false nitrate reading when you have nitrites.
 
I do have one but its not pulling much. Its a seaclone
15bdb55bb9608026edfd64154600aa54.jpg
 
I do have one but its not pulling much. Its a seaclone
15bdb55bb9608026edfd64154600aa54.jpg

Yep, a better one is needed. Doesn't look like it's working correctly. Not much micro bubbles being produced. Check to see if there's an obstruction in the airline and at the venturi on the pump. Could be calcium build up at the venturi (where the air goes into the pump.) skimmer chamber should be full of micro bubbles.
 
Sea Clone skimmers are the worst I have used. We had one and it never did skim properly even with all the mods. We ended up with an Octopus nano at half the price and that little fella chugs skim day and night worry-free. Couple of questions:
How old is the sand
What was the condition of the other tank before you took the rocks
Did you clean the rocks?
 

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