A quick fwiw. On the orbits , at a full 1:1 w/b color ratio, they color temp at 2ok on the nose with the meter.
All other leds I own will give an error message of 40k+.
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- Thread starter AzReefn
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All other leds I own will give an error message of 40k+.
That's interesting. I thought 20k was pretty blue looking to the eye? Mine looks very white with both at 100%
I'm getting the other 2 t5 bulbs today and was planning on having 3 blue+ and 1 true actinic to offset the "white look" of my tank. I like the deep reef/deep blue look. Below is a pic of my tank not long after it cycled with both at 100%. I know it's a hard question to answer but do you think I would get the blue look with my bulb selection of 3 blue+ and 1 true actinic with my led?
Ashish Patel
2500 Club Member
Looks like green coralline to me!
It becuse most folks don't know what 20k looks like in actual fact.That's interesting. I thought 20k was pretty blue looking to the eye? Mine looks very white with both at 100%
I'm getting the other 2 t5 bulbs today and was planning on having 3 blue+ and 1 true actinic to offset the "white look" of my tank. I like the deep reef/deep blue look. Below is a pic of my tank not long after it cycled with both at 100%. I know it's a hard question to answer but do you think I would get the blue look with my bulb selection of 3 blue+ and 1 true actinic with my led?
Keep that in mind when you read on people's opinions on color temp and what's too blue.
Visual Color temp perception can also be changed quite easily by changing the color of the lights in your room. This is becuse our eyes change its "white balance " incredibly fast and relies heavily on ratios of other sources.
The only other light I own that is exactly 20k is a 20k Radium metal halide.
Stay skeptical my friends.
Roy 9121
Valuable Member
I would still try turning down the whites if you can.
Ashish Patel
2500 Club Member
honestly, when you start a tank with all dry rock you have to be willing to go through the natural progression of cycle. I found that even when adding LR after 3 months to my all dry rock tank I witness a competition for nutrients between my cheato, cyano, hair algae, coraline,... This is why they say SPS do better in a mature tank - These algaes will compete for nutrients causing nutrient highs and lows while everything stabilizes. Not to mention dry rock is full of nasty PO that takes awhile to cure before new things can grow. I know 3 months seems like an eternity - Trust me I am at 7 months and started add acros after 2 months and most survived but lost a few by trying to increase the nutrients via nitrate dosing - which just caused a ton of new algaes to grow. Dont stress out just do your best to keep your nutrients low since in time they will rise faster then you want as your tank matures.
The light has no power. The t5 are going to over power it. I had the exact same set up.
At the same distance , the led is 300 400 par. The t5 are 1200.
Hey all, I have an update on my algae issue. I'm not broadcast feeding anymore and feeding about half of what I was and I cut the whites down to approx 6hours and running blue+/actinic for 10 hours and moonlights for 3 hours. The algae is diminishing and also some of the algae appears to be turning into a hard white substance. I googled it and haven't seen any posts later than 2012 and none of them really explained anything. I attached some pics showing the "white stuff". Anyone know what this is? On a side note, none of the algae has turned to coralline yet, not sure how long it takes though.
