Help me choose which LED for coral "farm"

[BoomCorals]

As mentioned, they get used somewhat like T5s – use 4, 6 or 8 of them. Folks that complain about par issues usually tried to use just one strip for some reason.

Full spectrum is a gimmick. A combo of blue plus white LEDs is all it takes to grow bomb corals. But if you are sold on Red+Green+Blue+White=full spectrum or some other derivation, there is still really no shortage of options. GHL, Orphek as well as numerous Chinese vendors.

I think there is a lot of proven science that would take issue with the statement that spectrum is a gimmick and you only need blue and white. Dana Riddle and others have shown spectrum makes a difference.

 

[TexasTodd]

Another vote for Orphek light bars. They're half the cost of ReefBrite and likely better. You can move each one around, angle some to limit shading, and get them in any spectrum you want. It's only $10 more for custom. They also offer 12k whites versus the 4-5k many LEDs have for whites that seem to burn very easily.

 

[mcarroll]

I think there is a lot of proven science that would take issue with the statement that spectrum is a gimmick and you only need blue and white. Dana Riddle and others have shown spectrum makes a difference.

You may have gotten the meaning of gimmick a little twisted...

gim·mick
ˈɡimik/
noun

1. a trick or device intended to attract attention, publicity, or business.

Here's an opinion piece I wrote on the topic just to save space here:
“Full Spectrum” – The Internet Reefer’s Decoder Ring

BTW, have you used a blue+white LED rig? Or anyone you know? Anyone notable using them or making them that you're aware of?

 

[hart24601]

Ime just like others have said the lighting isn’t going to make or break the project for color and growth. At this point I figure I can grow coral under any light just fine, however personally I don’t like T5 or halide on their own - that’s just personal. we do get a lot of people that attack whatever type of light they are not using - be wary of that. Sure the are pros and cons of each but a lot of that is situational. A frag system is much different than 400g basketball size sps colony tank.

I would get black box lights to keep cost down in your situation. Some nice ones are out there. Get them set up, color where you like it, check par levels around the growing area and leave it be. No doubt at some point something in the system will be off, or a particular coral will not be happy or color isn’t there and you will question your decision no matter what lighting it is, but don’t! It will not be the lighting but other factors that need addressing.

 

[BoomCorals]

You may have gotten the meaning of gimmick a little twisted...



Here's an opinion piece I wrote on the topic just to save space here:
“Full Spectrum” – The Internet Reefer’s Decoder Ring

BTW, have you used a blue+white LED rig? Or anyone you know? Anyone notable using them or making them that you're aware of?

Yep I think I misunderstood your context. My mistake!

 

[dz6t]

I think there is a lot of proven science that would take issue with the statement that spectrum is a gimmick and you only need blue and white. Dana Riddle and others have shown spectrum makes a difference.

Indeed all you need is blue and white.
Red and green led allow you to add extra red and green but the effect is very small.

 

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[A Reef Creation Verified Sponsor]

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[powdertang05]

Reefbreeders is coming out with a similar line in a couple of weeks. They are called lumenbars. Might want to check those out.

 

[Chef Tommy]

Orphek LED light bars look great. They are customizable and very affordable for a name brand. I ordered a sky blue to try.

 

[oreo54]

Indeed all you need is blue and white.
Red and green led allow you to add extra red and green but the effect is very small.

Which "blue"..... which "white"..
Issue gets complicated w/ LED's
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/f...ance-of-green-light-in-photosynthesis.361272/

I've been told some of the best lights for growth were 6500K Metal Halides.. Yep blue and white and a ton of other "colors" inside.

 

[mcarroll]

"6500K" is a good topic as it illustrates how subjective this area of lighting really is.

Check out all the different 6500K spectrum charts on post #56 of the Why do people run 6500K bulbs? thread.

It was/is actually way more complicated with T5's and Halides, where some "6500K" was of a very peculiar or sparse makeup. That's possible because 6500K is a perceived color and can be "made" in many different ways.

With LED's there're are no missing colors in "white" to begin with – merely a dip between the blue and red peaks.

In some halide and fluorescents there are large gaps of missing color or enormous peaks of light distorting the color to make it appear 6500K. (The Iwasaki 6500K halide is one of few bulbs that is actually reminiscent of sunlight's 6500K.)

This is what makes white LED's an excellent starting point vs many other white light sources on average. If you mix warm and cool white LED's, that eliminates a good percentage of the perceived weakness in color that some notice.

There's only that blue-green dip in the spectrum really left, and nobody likes those colors anyway. Ironic, since those are the most natural light colors on many reefs. We call it "the windex look" if a tank has actual reef color. Like the color of the water in the header image on my blog: Reef Success That's more or less the color that's missing from white LED's.

 

[PDR]

After a lot of debate, I have decided to go with the Orphek OR LED bars. I am waiting to hear back from orphek on a couple specifics, but after that, I will be placing my order. I will let everyone know what I think of them!

 

[Chef Tommy]

After a lot of debate, I have decided to go with the Orphek OR LED bars. I am waiting to hear back from orphek on a couple specifics, but after that, I will be placing my order. I will let everyone know what I think of them!

I think you will really enjoy them! I received one sky blue to start. I have a 75 gallon tank so I chose 90 degree lenses. Currently I'm running one with 4 T5 bulbs and everything looks great. The one fixture adds the shimmer that I had hoped for and provides a great coloration for night viewing. I'm planning to add another sky blue and probably a reef daylight once I'm ready to switch over completely. The mounting options that come with the light are great as well.

Here is a good shot of the light build.

Here is how I have it temporarily hung.

Enjoy your new lights, think you will be pleased!

 

[PDR]

Alright so I heard back from Orphek and they told me that with the 90-degree lens, a single reef daylight fixture should produce about 200 par at 20" from the coral (my minimum mounting height). I am going with 2 reef daylight and 1 UV/Violet. Because of the rockwork in the tank, I will only be lighting an 18"x48" section of the tank, so I believe 3 fixtures will be sufficient. They had suggested going with 90-degree lenses on the two daylight and a 120 lens on the UV which will be in the middle.

Does anyone know how to calculate approximate coverage at various heights using a 90 vs 120-degree lens?

I really need to get a par meter, and even though it really isn't in the budget, I think I'm going to just have to bite the bullet and make it happen. What is a good entry meter?

I think you will really enjoy them! I received one sky blue to start. I have a 75 gallon tank so I chose 90 degree lenses. Currently I'm running one with 4 T5 bulbs and everything looks great. The one fixture adds the shimmer that I had hoped for and provides a great coloration for night viewing. I'm planning to add another sky blue and probably a reef daylight once I'm ready to switch over completely. The mounting options that come with the light are great as well.

Here is a good shot of the light build.

Here is how I have it temporarily hung.

Enjoy your new lights, think you will be pleased!

Glad you like them!

 

[oreo54]

Roughly tan of 1/2 the beam angle..
90 degrees.. tan of 45 is 1.. Radius so 2 for cone diameter

1 foot height.. 2 foot spread.

https://store.marinebeam.com/beam-angle-calculator-1/

 

[mcarroll]

Does anyone know how to calculate approximate coverage at various heights using a 90 vs 120-degree lens?

90º is nice cuz no math is really needed......

mouting height = coverage radius

Otherwise you need a little triangle math. I wrote this article a while back for cases like this:
Online Triangle Calculator

This is the triangle calculator used in the article:
triangle.html

I really need to get a par meter, and even though it really isn't in the budget, I think I'm going to just have to bite the bullet and make it happen. What is a good entry meter?

A lux meter is a good entry level light meter. Another one Beginner’s Lux.

@Dana Riddle has written a lot more on the topic of lux meters and PAR. For example check the mentions in this post:

Your opening up a can of worms.
I use a Lux meter. Its $15 for a decent one. it measures intensity. Par conversion factors are available.
Dana Riddle.
The Man.
Google him and advanced aquarist. Its the best way to decide for yourself IMO

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2007/3/aafeature1
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2013/2/equipment


Imo Yes. a lux meter will tell you where you are and when and where to stop. Like tracking parameters.

Another good one. If you read in theres a bit of opinion and goes against Mr riddle.
http://www.reeftank123.com/lighting/strohmeyer_article.html

Many lux users say 20,000 lux to 80,000 lux

But there it is for you to decide.

 

[mcarroll]

late edit on the second half there

 

[powdertang05]

Has anyone seen any par numbers with they or bars?

 

[mcarroll]

Has anyone seen any par numbers with they or bars?

Everything but PAR on their site...