Red cyano rx, I battled that stuff for a long time used that a couple times and never saw it again. For 15 bucks worth a try and at the very least it'll make your tank pretty until you fix whatever issue is causing it.
Help me get rid of this!
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ndz98
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I don't currently have a tds meter on it but I am going to get one. I am going to say yes they are quality filters because it is a brs unit and they seem to have a good reputation. The unit is less than 3 months old and is only used to make five gallons every few weeks.
thats soooo odd.
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ndz98
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I mean would I be wrong to assume that the water should be good being that the unit is hardly used?
yes it should be.
I honestly dont know who would carry one locally, but this matses to mu brs meter for $9.https://www.amazon.com/Quality-Magi...UTF8&qid=1499452713&sr=8-3&keywords=tds+meter
your sure its hooked up correctly?
the other stuff to test again for is Po4
Ammonia and Nitrites. the appearance of these 2 would indicate bad water. I will say in my bad water prob ALL tests looked good. stuff just died.
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I was kinda surprised to notice theres no carbon or chemical filtration in place
Dunno, Im a passive carbon user(bag), i don't run gfo.
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I just ordered the tds meter and should receive it Sunday then we can see if the water is good. For right now I'm going to check all my parameters that I can and I'll get back to you guys.
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Do you have ammonia and nitrite?
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ndz98
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I don't. I'll have to check and see if my lfs can test for that.
Boom... there's the issue... po4 and no3 severely out of whack.
If I were you I'd be running gfo in a reactor to get those po4 numbers down. During that time, hold off the water changes to get no3 numbers up a little.
Aim for no3 being 100 times the po4 value... so if your po4 is reading 0.04 then no3 should be about 4... it isn't exact, but close enough to work.
Don't clean the cyano off in the menatime, you want to see it stop growing
Once it's stopped growing then treat with h2o2 to get rid of it once and for all.
Use h2o2 to treat whole rocks removing and putting into 20% h2o2 to 80% tank water for an hour. If no corals attached this is fine. If you've got corals attached, spot treat using a syringe or turkey baster. The cyano will turn white on contact and then bubble away for a few minutes. It'll the back to red... don't worry, it'll break up over the next 24 hours. Don't overdo the h2o2... in your tank size don't dose more than about 5ml per day... it takes 48 hours to breakdown into h2o and o2 entirely.
Should be all good after that
If you're running on a sump, once you're done treating, get some macro and a grow light in there... not only will it help to control po4 and no3, it'll keep those nutrients in balance too by using them up at the correct ratios.
Most all the science I have ever read says there is no correct balance. The redfiled reaction even Randy refutes and being significant.Boom... there's the issue... po4 and no3 severely out of whack.
If I were you I'd be running gfo in a reactor to get those po4 numbers down. During that time, hold off the water changes to get no3 numbers up a little.
Aim for no3 being 100 times the po4 value... so if your po4 is reading 0.04 then no3 should be about 4... it isn't exact, but close enough to work.
Don't clean the cyano off in the menatime, you want to see it stop growing
Once it's stopped growing then treat with h2o2 to get rid of it once and for all.
Use h2o2 to treat whole rocks removing and putting into 20% h2o2 to 80% tank water for an hour. If no corals attached this is fine. If you've got corals attached, spot treat using a syringe or turkey baster. The cyano will turn white on contact and then bubble away for a few minutes. It'll the back to red... don't worry, it'll break up over the next 24 hours. Don't overdo the h2o2... in your tank size don't dose more than about 5ml per day... it takes 48 hours to breakdown into h2o and o2 entirely.
Should be all good after that
If you're running on a sump, once you're done treating, get some macro and a grow light in there... not only will it help to control po4 and no3, it'll keep those nutrients in balance too by using them up at the correct ratios.
In almost every tank I've seen with cyano, including mine, po4 reads higher than no3... almost regardless of the ratios, if it's the other way around cyano isn't present.
Pics below of the same area of my tank... first is before anything was done. Second is once no3 read higher than po4 (no other treatment or changes, including lighting) and the last one is after the h2o2 treatment and having cleaned up.
It remains cyano free 4 months on.
I'm not saying I know more than Randy... that's certainly not the case, but just sharing what I've seen and experienced myself...
For sure the quality of the RODI water will be a massive factor too.
Absoloutly and we're debating it hotly right now in the Dino threads.In almost every tank I've seen with cyano, including mine, po4 reads higher than no3... almost regardless of the ratios, if it's the other way around cyano isn't present.
Pics below of the same area of my tank... first is before anything was done. Second is once no3 read higher than po4 (no other treatment or changes, including lighting) and the last one is after the h2o2 treatment and having cleaned up.
It remains cyano free 4 months on.
I'm not saying I know more than Randy... that's certainly not the case, but just sharing what I've seen and experienced myself...
For sure the quality of the RODI water will be a massive factor too.
Funny thing is as many folks seeming it as many folks aren't. In therory one of my thanks should be swarming with Dino's. It's not.
Is there an element of 'it's got to be in there to grow' to that do you think?
I do. But I should be a poster child for that.
Some of my coral was only off the plane for six hours, multiple lfs and others tanks and I dump stuff from the actual ocean in there and I used to use natural seawater.
Several years a go I only ever saw actual problem Dino's rarely and most were on the east coast.
I've also seen the Dino thing happen from a VIbrant overdose.
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ndz98
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So should I use gfo, purigen, or carbon? Do I have to have a reactor because I don't currently have one and don't really want to go out and buy one.
