HELP MY ZOAS ARE DYING EMERGENCY

[Chrisv.]

I also find that adding iodide makes a difference literally overnight.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Skip the pellets for feeding. I do believe this is a water quality issue due to certain factors. Zoanthids require the standard water parameters that are good for keeping just about any of your corals healthy. You’re aiming for:
water temperature about 78 F
salinity around 1.025
Alk 8-11 dKH)
pH around 8.1-8.3
Temp 77-79
However, if your polyps were previously open and have recently closed up, this should be taken as a serious sign of a water parameters issue. The first things I would check are ph and salinity. Zoas will close up if there are swings in salinity. Zoas must have iodide, not iodine in their water and under moderate light and water flow. They seem to do best in the lower half to third of the tank in an area of low-medium to medium-high flow. Too much flow may make it hard for the polyps to open. You will know your zoanthids are ‘happy’ if they open up and are fully extended without seeming to stretch so far upright. The majority of zoanthids have symbiotic photosynthetic zooxanthellae and are therefore best kept with at least moderate aquarium lighting as mentioned for production of zooxanthellae.
One disease that seems to disproportionately impacts these corals is something called zoa pox or zoanthid pox. Zoa pox is the name given to the zoanthid disease characterized by tiny growths on the side of the affected zoas. I’m not sure whether the growths/pustules themselves irritate the polyps and cause them to close up, or if the coral is otherwise sickly and closed up (therefore showing the zoa pox), but the bottom line is that if you see zoa pox, you have a sick coral.
Lastly, check for Super tiny spiders or nudibranchs which will take them down in No time. If you see these pests, start looking for eggs which are future pests to cause further problems.
Hope this Helps !!!

This is Zoa Pox: Check your frags as I thought i saw one with Pox on it

This is the one with possible Pox

 

[Gonj]

Direct feeding? I had some zoas took about 3 months to settle in but I raised my nitrates way up and then they started doing better. My nitrates are over 20.

Not sure how to raise them other than what I’ve already done, heavy feeding, ab+,and pulled the chaeto

 

[Gonj]

Have you posted nitrates and phosphate yet?

 

[Gonj]

Skip the pellets for feeding. I do believe this is a water quality issue due to certain factors. Zoanthids require the standard water parameters that are good for keeping just about any of your corals healthy. You’re aiming for:
water temperature about 78 F
salinity around 1.025
Alk 8-11 dKH)
pH around 8.1-8.3
Temp 77-79
However, if your polyps were previously open and have recently closed up, this should be taken as a serious sign of a water parameters issue. The first things I would check are ph and salinity. Zoas will close up if there are swings in salinity. Zoas must have iodide, not iodine in their water and under moderate light and water flow. They seem to do best in the lower half to third of the tank in an area of low-medium to medium-high flow. Too much flow may make it hard for the polyps to open. You will know your zoanthids are ‘happy’ if they open up and are fully extended without seeming to stretch so far upright. The majority of zoanthids have symbiotic photosynthetic zooxanthellae and are therefore best kept with at least moderate aquarium lighting as mentioned for production of zooxanthellae.
One disease that seems to disproportionately impacts these corals is something called zoa pox or zoanthid pox. Zoa pox is the name given to the zoanthid disease characterized by tiny growths on the side of the affected zoas. I’m not sure whether the growths/pustules themselves irritate the polyps and cause them to close up, or if the coral is otherwise sickly and closed up (therefore showing the zoa pox), but the bottom line is that if you see zoa pox, you have a sick coral.
Lastly, check for Super tiny spiders or nudibranchs which will take them down in No time. If you see these pests, start looking for eggs which are future pests to cause further problems.
Hope this Helps !!!

This is Zoa Pox: Check your frags as I thought i saw one with Pox on it

This is the one with possible Pox

I heard furan 2 is best for Zoa pox, but believe it was discontinued, what should I do for treatment

 

[Lavey29]

That's a cool water checker

 

[N.Sreefer]

That's a cool water checker

To bad its made by API

 

[Brian_68]

Skip the pellets for feeding. I do believe this is a water quality issue due to certain factors. Zoanthids require the standard water parameters that are good for keeping just about any of your corals healthy. You’re aiming for:
water temperature about 78 F
salinity around 1.025
Alk 8-11 dKH)
pH around 8.1-8.3
Temp 77-79
However, if your polyps were previously open and have recently closed up, this should be taken as a serious sign of a water parameters issue. The first things I would check are ph and salinity. Zoas will close up if there are swings in salinity. Zoas must have iodide, not iodine in their water and under moderate light and water flow. They seem to do best in the lower half to third of the tank in an area of low-medium to medium-high flow. Too much flow may make it hard for the polyps to open. You will know your zoanthids are ‘happy’ if they open up and are fully extended without seeming to stretch so far upright. The majority of zoanthids have symbiotic photosynthetic zooxanthellae and are therefore best kept with at least moderate aquarium lighting as mentioned for production of zooxanthellae.
One disease that seems to disproportionately impacts these corals is something called zoa pox or zoanthid pox. Zoa pox is the name given to the zoanthid disease characterized by tiny growths on the side of the affected zoas. I’m not sure whether the growths/pustules themselves irritate the polyps and cause them to close up, or if the coral is otherwise sickly and closed up (therefore showing the zoa pox), but the bottom line is that if you see zoa pox, you have a sick coral.
Lastly, check for Super tiny spiders or nudibranchs which will take them down in No time. If you see these pests, start looking for eggs which are future pests to cause further problems.
Hope this Helps !!!

This is Zoa Pox: Check your frags as I thought i saw one with Pox on it

This is the one with possible Pox

He said his zoas on the rocks seem fine, only the frag rack so not sure if this would be the cause.

 

[Bruce Burnett]

To bad its made by API

Except minimum reading nitrate is 5 ppm and phosphate is .2ppm

 

[vetteguy53081]

He said his zoas on the rocks seem fine, only the frag rack so not sure if this would be the cause.

I gave him all possibilities as it seems bizarre but obvious those on rack are stressed which is associated with location-flow-light.
Same tank, same water- there is more to it.

 

[happyhourhero]

If that 0 phos and 3 nitrate is correct, there’s a big part of your issue. Raise both of those.

 

[TheOldSalt]

I have to agree with the others who are saying that your po4 and no3 are too low, along with your pH being a tad too low, but it's odd that it's only affecting the ones on the rack.
Maybe the ones on the rack have a more significant difference in water flow and light than you think?

You took out most of your Chaeto. Is that when the trouble started?

This is a longshot, but... Is there a lot of salt creep/crust on the back of your tank? It might sound crazy, but maybe you have some stray voltage in the tank near the top near the rack, bad enough to zap the rack frags but far enough away to not bother the main reef?

 

[Gonj]

I also find that adding iodide makes a difference literally overnight.

Any particular brand you’d recommend

 

[Gonj]

I have to agree with the others who are saying that your po4 and no3 are too low, along with your pH being a tad too low, but it's odd that it's only affecting the ones on the rack.
Maybe the ones on the rack have a more significant difference in water flow and light than you think?

You took out most of your Chaeto. Is that when the trouble started?

This is a longshot, but... Is there a lot of salt creep/crust on the back of your tank? It might sound crazy, but maybe you have some stray voltage in the tank near the top near the rack, bad enough to zap the rack frags but far enough away to not bother the main reef?

Salt creep in the overflow you mean?

 

[Gonj]

I have to agree with the others who are saying that your po4 and no3 are too low, along with your pH being a tad too low, but it's odd that it's only affecting the ones on the rack.
Maybe the ones on the rack have a more significant difference in water flow and light than you think?

You took out most of your Chaeto. Is that when the trouble started?

This is a longshot, but... Is there a lot of salt creep/crust on the back of your tank? It might sound crazy, but maybe you have some stray voltage in the tank near the top near the rack, bad enough to zap the rack frags but far enough away to not bother the main reef?

And I pulled the chaeto bc of the problem I was having I thought it would help but no change, my lfs said it can be nudibranch ? But I did a dip and nothing came off

 

[Gonj]

I gave him all possibilities as it seems bizarre but obvious those on rack are stressed which is associated with location-flow-light.
Same tank, same water- there is more to it.

This is a pic I took today of the zoas in my rock, they’re all fine I’m so confused

 

[Gonj]

Although I’m my nutrient levels are not ideal, I don’t believe it could be the cause of my problem as the picture I attached shows happy thriving zoas on my rock work

 

[Gonj]

Really trying to stop the issue I’m having as I finally got some gmk and don’t want to lose it due to this unknown problem

 

[Gonj]

If that 0 phos and 3 nitrate is correct, there’s a big part of your issue. Raise both of those.

How would you recommend I raise them

 

[TheOldSalt]

Salt creep in the overflow you mean?

Well, anywhere that electricity from a filter, light, heater, or cord could be carried over the edge into the water. Are there any hang-on-back items that touch the water? If such an item is crusty with salt, there's a chance that some stray juice is getting loose.
Put a titanium grounding probe in the tank if you don't already have one. That will suck away any electricity and provide instant relief.
Or just wipe away any salt on the back of the tank.
Again, this is a longshot, but it happens enough to consider it.