Help needed with algae

[Brew12]

Good point, it is not an algae.

Most Dino's are photosynthetic which is why they grow when the lights are on and disappear at night. This is why some people recommend going lights out. I feel lights out just isn't effective since when the lights come back on the dino's come right back most of the time.

 

[mcarroll]

Am using a turkey blaster and siphoning a lot of mess out.
Would it be a good idea to do this daily? Siphoning the mess out and pouring the water back in the tank?

Yes, but I'd try just putting the water down the drain.....don't think a typical filter sock will catch dinos. It'll GROW dino's, but I don't think it wold be fine enough to catch them just flowing through.

If your dino bloom don't "over-react" to the new water-change water, then just continue this way.....blast and gravel vac away....daily if it makes sense.

So to summarise;
- increasing feeding (fresh/frozen/pellets)
- siphoning through filter sock on a daily basis
- measure and correct nutrients daily (aiming for NO3: 5-10ppm, PO4: 0.03-0.08ppm)
- changing carbon weekly

Increase feeding only to "proper" levels....don't try to overfeed. If you can spread out your current feedings more throughout the day (maybe with an auto-feeder) that's a generally good thing to do, even outside of dino invasions.

PO4: 0.10 ppm has the greatest effect....and having more has not shown to be a problem for anyone so far. (My tank runs a lot higher than that!)

 

[sebastiaan1985]

Yes, but I'd try just putting the water down the drain.....don't think a typical filter sock will catch dinos. It'll GROW dino's, but I don't think it wold be fine enough to catch them just flowing through.

If your dino bloom don't "over-react" to the new water-change water, then just continue this way.....blast and gravel vac away....daily if it makes sense.



Increase feeding only to "proper" levels....don't try to overfeed. If you can spread out your current feedings more throughout the day (maybe with an auto-feeder) that's a generally good thing to do, even outside of dino invasions.

PO4: 0.10 ppm has the greatest effect....and having more has not shown to be a problem for anyone so far. (My tank runs a lot higher than that!)

Thanks for the help! Found that the dino create a lot of pulp (almost like detritus), been cleaning for this a lot. So am going to do this daily.
Been using a bucket to get as much waste out as possible and putting the water back in.
But blasting before night and having the filter sock catch during night seems easier. Have put the Vortech on NTM during night, so this should help to get stuff in the filter sock.

Was not planning on over-feeding (not intentionally anyway). Am using Apex-feeder, so now two feedings a day on pellets. Pods every other day, nori on the other and reef roids twice a week. (Amounts to be played with a bit)

Macro algae does seem to grow, took off a week ago, now it does seems to have slowed down as suggested in earlier post.

 

[sebastiaan1985]

Have been away from home the past week... Which did not help the battle at all, so I am kind of back to start...
Yesterday I came home and most rockwork was severely covered... Slight upside is that the sand did not seem to be covered that much.
So the coming days I will change the filter sock daily, keep up my feeding as before this week and hope it will decrease quickly.

 

[sebastiaan1985]

This week I continued feeding as usual, also the nightly filter sock and blowing off all the debris.
Slowly decreasing again, so will have to continue this and hope it will be gone in an couple of weeks..

Keeping it up, but still a long way to go..​

 

[sebastiaan1985]

Slowly progressing... Filter sock and feeding schedule seem to be doing the trick.

PO4 is continuously around 0.1 ~ 0.15ppm
NO3 around 15ppm

 

[brandon429]

hey do you have an update pic to chart progress, I like to follow tank correction threads to assimilate recurring patterns among different ways to cure issues

also, how many gallons is your tank> the reason I ask is, only large tanks have to sustain an invasion for months, nanos never do, in fact they're easy to keep uninvaded for the life of the tank, independent of what you do with nutrients, light, and feed, and this includes the mean dino groups. this tank looked pretty big

if your tank was a nano, we'd have had it cured within two days of your post. corals would be fatter etc decisive outcome w no delay.

 

[sebastiaan1985]

Will add some pictures, did make a few during process and will make some more once I get home today.

Tank is about 40 gallon in total water volume.

 

[brandon429]

goodness that's accessible. If any of the dosing approaches turns out too slow (they w work in time agreed) then a standard clean the entire tank all at once will stop your invasion, and we'll put the outcome on the 8th page of such outcomes

 

[sebastiaan1985]

goodness that's accessible. If any of the dosing approaches turns out too slow (they w work in time agreed) then a standard clean the entire tank all at once will stop your invasion, and we'll put the outcome on the 8th page of such outcomes

Here are a few pictures I took a minute ago.
As you can see, I also have to adjust flow from return with RFG, sand blowing everywhere...

 

[brandon429]

i like to post this only to show what physical post hole digging work can do. I think it will endure as a reliable option no matter how well the preventatives evolve. storing no waste in a sandbed is such a simple cure.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/the-official-sand-rinse-thread-aka-one-against-many.230281/

ID was not required for us, nutrient measures not required.
them after pics, quick.

need for chemistry knowledge-none.

need for google scholar articles allowing our practice-none, we just took it.

in no way does this mean one shouldn't experiment with and optimize nutrients and competition in the reef. Its endless bio modeling left to discover, its part of the new way, all of this is agreed.

The reason I choose the other is just because its raw repeatable biology that no invader can adapt to. And the amazing thing is that it only takes a few rounds of force, and then all your invasion potential shifts to what you keep importing or not

my thread isn't just about the sandbed animals being incidental/not a breakpoint in anything, its about simply demanding an invasion stop just because you do have that option. If someone likes to tinker or set a challenge personal for purely natural means, that's attaining a very high bar of performance and should be applauded. Large tankers need that option because they cannot do what you can do in two hours with that tank.

As time evolves here are the reasons I hear people don't want to rinse their sandbed, and will prefer a system wide invasion instead:

-I can't claim my tank is X years old after such a cleaning (internet pride based hesitation)
-I can't deep clean, that will recycle (microbial misnomer based hesitation)
-Ill remove some worms (see keen meme I drew up last page)
-Ill lose whatever was supposed to be reducing nitrate so that I don't have to add nopox or carbon or ATS or biopellets or vodka or vinegar


at nano-reef.com general forum I started a thread stating how nano reefs are easy to make invasion free, that applies here imo.

I think the baddest upcoming method for reefing is the forced method of tank reset, then a careful tuning of nutrients and newly added micro competitors like the pods that eat up dinos etc.

Our approaches do not have to be exclusive, I think they're best teamed actually.

 

[brandon429]

yours is the gallonage where it becomes a breakpoint, for me, to have oversized UV hidden up underneath plumbed creatively. I can tell solely by pics that with a rip clean, and UV, youd never see issues again given any decent quarantine protocol afterwards. there's probably ten other means to have the same outcome, but that's also certainly one above.

 

[sebastiaan1985]

i like to post this only to show what physical post hole digging work can do. I think it will endure as a reliable option no matter how well the preventatives evolve. storing no waste in a sandbed is such a simple cure.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/the-official-sand-rinse-thread-aka-one-against-many.230281/

ID was not required for us, nutrient measures not required.
them after pics, quick.

need for chemistry knowledge-none.

need for google scholar articles allowing our practice-none, we just took it.

in no way does this mean one shouldn't experiment with and optimize nutrients and competition in the reef. Its endless bio modeling left to discover, its part of the new way, all of this is agreed.

The reason I choose the other is just because its raw repeatable biology that no invader can adapt to. And the amazing thing is that it only takes a few rounds of force, and then all your invasion potential shifts to what you keep importing or not

my thread isn't just about the sandbed animals being incidental/not a breakpoint in anything, its about simply demanding an invasion stop just because you do have that option. If someone likes to tinker or set a challenge personal for purely natural means, that's attaining a very high bar of performance and should be applauded. Large tankers need that option because they cannot do what you can do in two hours with that tank.

As time evolves here are the reasons I hear people don't want to rinse their sandbed, and will prefer a system wide invasion instead:

-I can't claim my tank is X years old after such a cleaning (internet pride based hesitation)
-I can't deep clean, that will recycle (microbial misnomer based hesitation)
-Ill remove some worms (see keen meme I drew up last page)
-Ill lose whatever was supposed to be reducing nitrate so that I don't have to add nopox or carbon or ATS or biopellets or vodka or vinegar


at nano-reef.com general forum I started a thread stating how nano reefs are easy to make invasion free, that applies here imo.

I think the baddest upcoming method for reefing is the forced method of tank reset, then a careful tuning of nutrients and newly added micro competitors like the pods that eat up dinos etc.

Our approaches do not have to be exclusive, I think they're best teamed actually.

Not quite sure what you mean with this post, you suggest I should start over? Or at least remove (part of) my sand?

yours is the gallonage where it becomes a breakpoint, for me, to have oversized UV hidden up underneath plumbed creatively. I can tell solely by pics that with a rip clean, and UV, youd never see issues again given any decent quarantine protocol afterwards. there's probably ten other means to have the same outcome, but that's also certainly one above.

Have been contemplating with the idea of a UV, but since I am on the Triton-system, an UV is not recommended. Perhaps get one on loan from my LFS to battle the dino's?

 

[brandon429]

That link shows how to fix your aquarium up if you want to check out all the tanks in it. It’s not a start over any more than a water change is a start over, it’s just simply cleaning out your sand bed


I hadn’t heard of anything UV conflicts with regarding a dosing system for nutrients, can you post a link where the UV conflict was stated

Only live phytoplankton systems I’d have a concern about unless there is specific chemistry issues between triton and UV

I’m not sure I like any dosing system that requires someone to keep an invader in place. The only reason to use triton is to avoid water changes, with just rock and a fish it’s not super important system right now

Until the system is packed with coral, not using triton won’t matter as nothing is uptaking ions heavily yet

 

[sebastiaan1985]

That link shows how to fix your aquarium up if you want to check out all the tanks in it. It’s not a start over any more than a water change is a start over, it’s just simply cleaning out your sand bed


I hadn’t heard of anything UV conflicts with regarding a dosing system for nutrients, can you post a link where the UV conflict was stated

Only live phytoplankton systems I’d have a concern about unless there is specific chemistry issues between triton and UV

I’m not sure I like any dosing system that requires someone to keep an invader in place. The only reason to use triton is to avoid water changes, with just rock and a fish it’s not super important system right now

Until the system is packed with coral, not using triton won’t matter as nothing is uptaking ions heavily yet

Will check for the link, am quite sure I've read it somewhere, not sure where though...
But with these issues, an UV could greatly help, or at least temporary. Thanks for the tip, what kind of wattage would you recommend?

And will do a thorough sand rinsing this weekend, same goes for the sump, do have some detritus build up the past few weeks.