Help, new torch does not look good

[Pistondog]

Crazy, I got itnfrom unique corals and they said it was a good beginner LPS coral

Good beginner might refer to your coral experience, not the age of the tank.

 

[Turtleman87]

Good beginner might refer to your coral experience, not the age of the tank.

I didnt even think of that. Thank you

 

[Mywifeisgunnakillme]

Nitrates is your problem 1 is pretty low , tank is too “clean” bring your nitrates up to 5-10

I would just keep your tank stable and not care about any numbers. Any nitrate between 1 and 30 ppm is fine. Any phosphate from 0.03 to 0.3 is fine. Just keep it between the lines there when starting out and try to keep the range tight with consisent water changes and husbandry. Only care about a number, if you are having issues. It's a good thought, but i really doubt your 1ppm nitrates has anything to do with this torch closing up. I have run tanks with zero nitrates showing up on ICP and had torches do great... just make sure you are feeding the fish and register some nitrate and you're good.

 

[Turtleman87]

Bring nitrates up don’t let people tell you they’re “bad”

Would you dose nitrogen? O have a bottle of brightwell nitrogen?

 

[noobreefer2]

Would you dose nitrogen? O have a bottle of brightwell nitrogen?

I'm having a similar problem, nitrates are around 1, so I'm dosing it up with neonitro.

My thread: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/hammer-receding-because-of-algae-thoughts.874333/

 

[Mywifeisgunnakillme]

Would you dose nitrogen? O have a bottle of brightwell nitrogen?

I think its a mistake to start adding another variable. You're top concern is maturity and consistency. If you want to bring up nitrates a little, just add a little more food for your fish. Avoid coral foods at this point, just feed the fish and keep stable numbers in the ball park. easier soft corals in the tank will do the rest.

If you run into a problem like dinos or the like or have more corals have issues, ask questions, and perhaps do something more than above...

But i see a clean sand bed, no dinos, growing softies in that tank, and one torch that god knows why is not doing well. I would not change things. It's a new tank--so assume that is the issue... (EDIT--there is a saying, don't chase zebras in a herd of horse.. if there is simple answer, that's probably it... here, you have new tank and one coral is not doing well in herd of others... the new tank and lack of stable chemistry and nutrients and maturity and bacterial load is most likely the issue... one person attributing one other lps to closing to his low nitrates is chasing a zebra is herd of horses...) Keep things stable and you'll be fine. When softies grow--you know nitrates are ok--and when they really grow try harder corals.

 

[Turtleman87]

I think its a mistake to start adding another variable. You're top concern is maturity and consistency. If you want to bring up nitrates a little, just add a little more food for your fish. Avoid coral foods at this point, just feed the fish and keep stable numbers in the ball park. easier soft corals in the tank will do the rest.

If you run into a problem like dinos or the like or have more corals have issues, ask questions, and perhaps do something more than above...

But i see a clean sand bed, no dinos, growing softies in that tank, and one torch that god knows why is not doing well. I would not change things. It's a new tank--so assume that is the issue... Keep things stable and you'll be fin.

Okay I like that plan. Easy to follow thank you!

 

[musaabi]

Personally, i don't think the tank is too new to add corals. I am advocate of adding corals ASAP.

This tank is just too new to add that coral. Add a bunch of cheap, easy, softies such as leathers, trees, zooanthids, xenia, etc., etc., that will help mature the tank much faster by introducing bacteria and get nutrients consumed. Keep ALK and nitrate and phosphate consistent.

When the those easier corals grow gang buster and the no problems, add or replace with more challenging coral...

Good to know, I’ll try that next time I’m having an issue. I actually just had a torch die on me that I got a week ago but all the other torches in the pack are doing fine. I’ll avoid aminos for a couple of weeks

 

[Randy’s reef]

You can keep it at 1, or u can bring it up to 5 and 10 and thank me later

 

[Randy’s reef]

RAISE IT lol

 

[Randy’s reef]

RAISE IT lol

This tank is 3 months old and everything is growing like weeds , nitrates are 5-10 when it goes lower everything shrivels up.

 

[vetteguy53081]

For starters, pull this off the sand as sand will irritate it. NOT a beginner coral whatsoever as torch require typical parameters including a temperature around 78 degrees, a specific gravity of about 1.025, ph of about 8.2, and a calcium level of about 400 ppm. Like most large polyp stony corals, a torch coral benefits from moderate water flow. The polyps will remain retracted and under-inflated if the water current is too fast because the large flowing polyps are prone to rip and tear in high or ultra-high current environments.
The torch coral is a photosynthetic coral, meaning it has a relationship with symbiotic zooxanthellae (single-cell photosynthetic organisms) that live inside its tissues that converts the light energy into sugar. In exchange for a home inside the coral, the zooxanthellae split their harvest and feed the coral. Therefore, it is possible to keep the Torch coral without any feeding at all. However, all corals are animals, and animals are meant to eat.
The best placement for a torch coral is in a location that gets moderate water flow and moderate-intensity lighting.
One of the biggest problems I have seen beginner hobbyists have is failing to account for the calcium demand for these corals. If there is insufficient calcium in your aquarium water, these corals will not be able to make their coral skeleton. You should also never lift a torch coral out of the water if you can avoid it. You could tear the polyps, and torn polyps are prone to infection followed by necrosis

 

[Randy’s reef]

RAISE NITRATESSSSSSSS

 

[Mywifeisgunnakillme]

When any coral is receding like that i avoid aminos like the plague. While the aminos may help feed the coral--they also feed bacteria that could be attacking the coral and causing the receding in the first place... Just anecdotal, but i have tried the amino thing, a few brands. I would bet my mother's left foot on them aiding in coral death, especially LPS.

When i stopped using aminos, and carbon sources, any issues i had with torches, hammers, and SPS stopped.

to add a caveat to this, once a coral has stopped receding--e.g., has stopped dying and started to heal--there might be a case for adding aminos at that time....; the initial infection is over and/or the tank no longer has vibrio or whatever bacteria attacking that coral... to promote healing, aminos might help... But to add food for bacteria pathogen, e.g., aminos or carbon sources, while the coral is actively in distress and being attacked--i do not think makes sense..

Personally, many, many people grow amazing tanks without amino additions.. because i really beleive aminos are double edged sword and aid bacteria grow that is harmful--i just completely avoid them now.

 

[Mywifeisgunnakillme]

This tank is six months old, i say dont add nitrates or other whatever, maybe some fish food, and keep things (alk, nitrate, phosphate) stable above all else, but what do i know.