HELP RTN

[Laynrockers]

Well you're obviously a seasoned hobbyist, nice tanks BTW.

You're running low nutrient systems so that alk should not be of much issue if that is the true value.

I had an episode of STN, the cause was I was dosing based on bad values from test kits. I now use mostly Hanna Checker but if I see an issue I then start backing up chemistry with other test kits, Salifert and Red Sea mainly.

It's is possible that this is indeed a pathogen introduced to the tank.

I would dip in an Iodine dilution, and perhaps consider testing for Potassium as well Iodine. Personally I like Lugols.

I must admit i am using the cheap test kits, with all the new purchases i didnt want to add more for expensive test kits. all mine are Salifert. the issue is, it will be a random frag. Out of no-where boom white as a ghost or ill catch it midway typically starting from the bottom.

How is the flow?

Flow seems good to my knowledge, not too much where things are "thrashing" just a good moderate flow to make everything happy and keep detritus off.

I'm suspecting AEFW. There are a few spots that could be bite marks.

Not familiar with AEFW can you explain more? thanks

 

[Laynrockers]

This weeks losses :mad:

 

[reefbeard]

This would make sense for my tank. Since i am trying to get used to where the level are out i am constantly noticing my ALK dipping and have to dose part A and B to raise the CA and ALK. The only chemicals or the like it can be exposed to in my opinion would be possibly soap. I wash my socks in my washer every week and run two wsh cycles on the hottest setting. Obviously i do not add anything to the washer, but that doesnt mean there isnt some soap residue left over???

I run a GFO and Carbon Reactor from BRS.

I would definitely focus on creating a chemicly stable environment. 1. Consistent dosing schedule of 2-part, smaller more frequent dosing. 2. Watch your use of po4 remover, adding a lot of new GFO at once may drop PO4 levels too quickly. 3. Smaller volume of weekly water changes such as 5% of volume to reduce swings in chemistry.

Also, do not rule out a bacterial infection such as Vibrio vulnificus which would requre quarantine and treatment with an antibiotic. A Lugols dip may be a good start as Taho61 suggested but it might not be effective against a full blown infection.

 

[Laynrockers]

Just got to check the tank after work. Updated photo of this weeks losses. The acan has been retracted and slowly dying for the last few days. The tissue is not peeling off like i have seen before. Instead dying very slowly. I cant figure this out. I can definitely agree with some of the above suggestions From reefbeard to keep my dosing part a/b more frequent instead of large dosing every two weeks. I still dont know if my temperature if playing a role. 80 degrees to max 81?? Trying to read about Vibrio now. Thanks again everyone for the input.

 

[Tahoe61]

Do you have a UV filter? If so run one to see if that might make a difference.

I would also check all pumps, heaters, power heads...if it's electrical check it.

Have you purchased any salt lately?

 

[reefbeard]

Just got to check the tank after work. Updated photo of this weeks losses. The acan has been retracted and slowly dying for the last few days. The tissue is not peeling off like i have seen before. Instead dying very slowly. I cant figure this out. I can definitely agree with some of the above suggestions From reefbeard to keep my dosing part a/b more frequent instead of large dosing every two weeks. I still dont know if my temperature if playing a role. 80 degrees to max 81?? Trying to read about Vibrio now. Thanks again everyone for the input.

Very sorry to see your loss. Here is a link on Vibrio for your reference. http://www.reefs.org/library/talklog/c_bingman_040697.html

 

[Laynrockers]

Do you have a UV filter? If so run one to see if that might make a difference.

I would also check all pumps, heaters, power heads...if it's electrical check it.

Have you purchased any salt lately?

Ran a full check, everything operating normal. I use Ozone, It runs for 5 hours every night.

Very sorry to see your loss. Here is a link on Vibrio for your reference. http://www.reefs.org/library/talklog/c_bingman_040697.html

thanks for the help bud!

 

[toothman]

If you are dosing only every 2 weeks you are probably having alk swings and that may be the problem. As reefbeard stated smaller dosing over a period of time. Do you use a dosing pump or just add the alk and calcium. Use dosing pumps, test daily to see how much your tank uses then you know how much you need to dose daily to keep things steady. This will add alk and calcium slowly and not spike them, alk most importantly

 

[Laynrockers]

If you are dosing only every 2 weeks you are probably having alk swings and that may be the problem. As reefbeard stated smaller dosing over a period of time. Do you use a dosing pump or just add the alk and calcium. Use dosing pumps, test daily to see how much your tank uses then you know how much you need to dose daily to keep things steady. This will add alk and calcium slowly and not spike them, alk most importantly

Just adding the part A and part B into my sump right by the pump. I guess the question here to rule this out, or as the problem is what kind of ALK swings classify as "too much".. ?

 

[toothman]

How low is the alkalinity when you add it and what is it after you add it. I personally use a calcium reactor so I have a steady addition over time each day, but my tank is quite large

 

[evolved]

Have you checked any/all of the magnets inside the tank? Strange stuff happens when a magnet starts rusting if its seal was compromised.

 

[ca2or]

RTN and Brown Jelly pretty much drove me out of the hobby for a while.....ugh....I hate that stuff.

 

[Laynrockers]

How low is the alkalinity when you add it and what is it after you add it. I personally use a calcium reactor so I have a steady addition over time each day, but my tank is quite large

Unfortunately i never wrote it down. I would test and then dose the 2 part per the bottle. Using Kent Marine Tech CB. Dosing is 10ml per 40G. So I would dose 75ml or 15 tsp of each. This is well below the maximum recommended to dose per 12 hour period.

Have you checked any/all of the magnets inside the tank? Strange stuff happens when a magnet starts rusting if its seal was compromised.

Yes, using a new Flipper mag. Thanks for the input.

RTN and Brown Jelly pretty much drove me out of the hobby for a while.....ugh....I hate that stuff.

I know :mad:

 

[twilliard]

Give them what they need for photosynthesis and happy zooxanthellae
No3 and po4

 

[Laynrockers]

OK- honest question. On my test kit it says to put the plastic tip on the syringe. It mentions "some" air will be present below the piston. This is how much I always get. This is alot more then "some" air it is enough the skew the test results by 60-80ppm in regards to calcium. I this the same amount of air you guys get?

 

[evolved]

Yes, that's to be expected. The fluid volume is still correct, as the volume which fills the tip would equally fill that air gap.

 

[Amoo]

is the air line at .85 in that picture?

 

[Laynrockers]

is the air line at .85 in that picture?

.83

 

[mcarroll]

I check my levels weekly as this is a new system i am getting used to. [....].

If you have a tank full of stony corals and are dosing less often than daily, then that is your problem. Alkalinity will be up and down like a basketball and Acro's hate that more than a lot of corals.

You may have to test once a day while you get the hang of the tank, but even after you can predict your test numbers, you'll have to keep dosing every day (or better).

Either dose manually every day (still my favorite) or get a dosing pump of some kind.

You will never satisfactorily stabilize the tank only dosing every week or two.

Also, 81-82°F is no problem. My tank ran constantly at 82.3°F for years. [emoji3]

 

[Amoo]

If that is .83, then that's exactly how much liquid you have. If you want to get to the full 1ml, do the following:

Draw up liquid into the syringe and pull syringe plunger back to 1.0 You will see some air.

Turn the syringe towards the ceiling and flick it extremely hard, moving the bubble towards the tip.

Once they are all mostly there, draw the syringe back a little further, this will pull the fluid out of the tip and allow air in.

Now hold the syringe back over the solution and SLOWLY squirt out all the air and you have only fluid.

Now dip the tip back into the fluid and draw out to 1ml.

This should remove all air bubbles.

If you make sure you do this with all of your tests you will always get the same result. The syringe will always draw up 1ml of solution + what's in the tip, and when you squirt out all the solution you will always have that little left in the tip. You could titrate with what you have there, but then you have to figure out how much you added starting from .83 not 1.0

HTH