HELP!!! URGENTLY I DON'T KNOW IF THEY WILL PULL THROUGH THE NIGHT!!HELP!

  • Thread starter Thread starter JadeM
  • Start date Start date
  • Tagged users None

JadeM

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Dec 25, 2015
Messages
413
Reaction score
119
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
HELP URGENTLY! MY TWO FOXFACE ARE RAPIDLY BREATHING AND HAVE ICH AND CLOUDY EYES! THEY ARE NOT SWIMMING AROUND AND I DONT KNOW HOW LONG UNTILL THEY DIE! I DOUBT THEY WILL MAKE IT THROUGH THE NIGHT... THEY ARE IN HYPO SALINITY BUT ARE SHOWING NO IMPROVEMENTS THEY LOOK LIKE THEY WILL PASS TONIGHT.. DO I PUT THEM BACK INTO 1.024 SALINITY OR KEEP THEM AT 1.020/1.021 ! HELP I DONT WANT THEM TO DIE WHAT IS CAUSING THE RAPID BREATHING... PLEASE ANY ADVICE...:(
 
SORRY FOR THE QUALITY AND SALTY GLASS BUT I'M IN A HURRY PLEASE ANYONE

Screenshot_2016-10-22-20-49-24.png


DSC_0041-2.JPG
 
Give some more background. When did you put them in hypo? Why? What are the other params in the tank?
 
they have been in hypo for around 3/2 days now, due to a few ich apearing... parameters were.. ok nitrates a bit high but got them under control they are the only fish affected including my maroon all other fish are ich free
Give some more background. When did you put them in hypo? Why? What are the other params in the tank?

Screenshot_2016-10-22-20-58-12.png
 
Is your QT setup correctly. Does it have enough aeration? Is the temp correct, did you gradually reduce salinity or all at one? Fish can tolerate low salinity but you have to change it gradually. I hope you are not putting the fish around from hypo and NSW. What about water quality(nitrate/phosphate)?

do you know if the source of their being sluggish is ich or rapid change in salinity?

Also, 1.020 is not the right salinity to treat for ich. Read up on the right salinity setup for treating ich.

Best of luck. Hope it will pull through.

Sam
 
Is your QT setup correctly. Does it have enough aeration? Is the temp correct, did you gradually reduce salinity or all at one? Fish can tolerate low salinity but you have to change it gradually. I hope you are not putting the fish around from hypo and NSW. What about water quality(nitrate/phosphate)?

do you know if the source of their being sluggish is ich or rapid change in salinity?

Also, 1.020 is not the right salinity to treat for ich. Read up on the right salinity setup for treating ich.

Best of luck. Hope it will pull through.

Sam
yes aeration heater and thermometer both showing perfect reading, salinity was reduce overnight by drip '' i hope you are not putting the fish around from hypo and NSW. '' i don't get what you are meant to say... sorry nitrate phos both perfect... ok so hypo needs to be alot lower...not from what i have read.... thats a pain... thanks :)
 
Is your QT setup correctly. Does it have enough aeration? Is the temp correct, did you gradually reduce salinity or all at one? Fish can tolerate low salinity but you have to change it gradually. I hope you are not putting the fish around from hypo and NSW. What about water quality(nitrate/phosphate)?

do you know if the source of their being sluggish is ich or rapid change in salinity?

Also, 1.020 is not the right salinity to treat for ich. Read up on the right salinity setup for treating ich.

Best of luck. Hope it will pull through.

Sam
first day salinity was brought down from 1.024 to 1.020/1.021 tomorow i will reduce again to 1.016 or so.... fingers crossed this works
 
Look at some of the successful treatment journal. With this treatment, you should do some water changes regularly to avoid buildup or nitrate, do you have any filteration setup to avoid buildup of ammonia. Several years back, when I had successfully done this, I had a established hypo tank with bio balls.

Sam
 
Look at some of the successful treatment journal. With this treatment, you should do some water changes regularly to avoid buildup or nitrate, do you have any filteration setup to avoid buildup of ammonia. Several years back, when I had successfully done this, I had a established hypo tank with bio balls.

Sam
t
yep bio balls, a bit of carbon and normal filter media . Water change done yesterday and today .... quite established tank itself too
 
Just went through this myself. Lost everything. But as I reflect on my mistake I believe I over dosed on metroplex. These are the times that truly suck about this hobby. Whatever you have MAY be to far along to turn around. If I find myself in this unfortunate spot again I would very slowly medicate. And keep things consistent.
My .02...
Leave them in whatever you have them in . Do you have them separately in quarantine?
Do you have air in quarantine?
Are you medicating?
If so with what?
I would advise to keep them with an air stone going on in a ten gallon quarantine. Add your medication. Follow the dosing to the tee.
What I would differently next time I'm faced with the same problem is to gradually do small frequent water changes to the medicated tank after the initial treatment . Say after four days around two gallons. See my fish lasted 15 days on their side in the tank breathing very hard. 15 DAYS! Well the directions called for one scoop per 10 gallons of the medication every other day for 14 days. Some days they looked better than others but never seemed to recover. For 15 days I kept plugging away with the drug. I'm sure the fish were just over dosed . So now I think that after the fish have been dosed with drugs for four days I think a small water change would help. Heck maybe a 5 minute freshwater dip might work too...
Anyhow, please share! If the undesired outcome happens write your experience down . It bothers the heck out of us all here to lose anything! You are not alone! We all been there...good luck!
 
How long ago did you first notice that they had signs of ich?

I'm not an expert on this, but it doesn't look like ich to me. If they just started showing symptoms within the last 2 or 3 days I think ich is rather unlikely. It's hard for me to tell with foxfaces because they change color so much. Are you seeing a few spots, a large amount of spots, or is it patches of affected area?
 
Not sure what disease process is going on. Just an FYI, you can lower SG at a quicker rate, raising SG suddenly is dangerous. Do not panic and add the fish back to the display. In my opinion that looks more like advanced Velvet/Amyloodinium or bacterial infection.
A medicinal remedy rather than hyposalinity is probably indicated, in which case you'll have remove any mediums that absorb medications such as rock, charcoal.
 
I myself was think the rapid breathing and the appearance sounds and looks like flukes. I would do a fresh water dip.
 
Check if the body appears slimmy? Check if it is Velvet, if it is, your fishes most likely is beyond help.
The best way to treat it is medicine dipping, like malachite green and than put them back in normal condition.
Don't further stress the fish by trying to tend it more than often. Most of the time fishes died because we suddenly change their environment.
 
Hi there! I answered this in your other thread. But I will copy and paste it here too. Actually seeing pictures I can't tell if it's ick or velvet. Because of that, out of the options you will see here, I would suggest copper in a QT.

The cloudy eyes are an infection. With ich, you can't get rid of it without QT and treatment. To be rid of it in your display you will need to remove all fish and let the tank sit fallow (fishless) for 76 days. There are several ways to treat for ick, I'll link them here for you to read. The eyes are caused by the ick. Epsom salt will help with the swelling and if they can't heal the infection on their own antibiotics are needed. Kanaplex is my med of choice for this purpose, and doing it in the water in the QT is the best way to administer. This is a lot of info, but it's all good stuff. Give it a read and ask any questions it might leave you with. :)
How to Quarantine
Ich eradication vs. Ich management
Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans)

Velvet (Amyloodinium ocellatum)

Antibiotics: Treats bacterial infections, which are oftentimes “secondary” to preexisting parasitic infestations.

How To Treat - Follow the directions on the label of whatever product you are using. Always use a broad spectrum antibiotic medication i.e. one that treats both gram-positive and gram-negative bacterial diseases (very important). Examples of this include Furan-2, Kanamycin akaSeachem Kanaplex, Nitrofuracin Green Powder, Triple Sulfa Powder or a combination of using both Erythromycin & Minocycline. The latter can be accomplished (albeit expensively) by using freshwater Maracyn 1 & 2 and then doubling the dosage for saltwater use. When battling a particularly nasty bacterial infection, combining Furan-2, Kanaplex and metronidazole (ex. Seachem MetroPlex) can be very effective (and safe).Props to “hedgedrew” for enlightening me of this.

Normally you have to do 4 doses to complete a full course of treatment. The instructions may say to dose every 24 hours, and perform water changes at certain intervals. In my experience, you often have to do 2 full courses of treatment (or 8 doses total) before a fish will show signs of improvement (antibiotics are notoriously slow acting with fish). If a fish shows no signs of improvement after the second full course, then it’s time to try a completely different medication. Just like with humans, sometimes a certain fish will respond better to a different antibiotic. You can run activated carbon at any time when you wish to end treatment.

Pros - One of the few medications that can safely be mixed with others. You can use antibiotics in conjunction with just about everything.

Cons/Side Effects - Appetite suppression, depletes the water of oxygen (so provide additional gas exchange).

Epsom Salt: Treats eye and other injuries. Popeye in one eye usually means injury, but popeye in both eyes usually denotes a bacterial infection requiring antibiotic treatment. Cloudy eye can be a bacterial infection or flukes.

How To Treat - 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons of aquarium water. Repeat only once, if necessary. Use only “USP” grade Epsom salt.

Pros - Reef safe, as Epsom salt is just magnesium sulfate.

Cons/Side Effects - The effects of excessive sulfate in a reef aquarium are not fully known.
 
I agree with @Tahoe61 and @melypr1985. This looks more like a bacterial infection, but I wouldn't be surprised if Marine Velvet Disease was the underlying cause. Also, you would need to lower the SG to 1.009 to achieve proper hyposalinity... but that won't help in this case.

I would follow this protocol: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/velvet-amyloodinium-ocellatum.217570/#post-2499437

Once the fish is in QT, add a broad spectrum antibiotic (exs. Furan-2, Kanaplex) in addition to treating with copper or Chloroquine phosphate.
 
ok thankyou everyone... bad news i will only be treating 1 foxface now...... the smaller of the two passed last night.... flukes?? how would of they got into my system? and doesn't that mean they could be on my other fish? he is showing the sign, rapid breathing, cloudy eyes, loss of apatite, patches, strange behaviour etc......how to treat it?? i'll read up i might need your help thanks
 
this is just then not eating, last time i saw her my self eat was morning yesterday.... not looking good... i have no copper at the momment will try the fresh water dip first at least... would their be eggs in the DT? are my other fish at risk???

Screenshot_2016-10-23-09-14-08.png


Screenshot_2016-10-23-09-14-14.png
 
If it flukes it can be treated with prazipro. I also had flukes at one point. Im not sure how they may have gotten in your system. If you believe the fish can last through a fresh water dip this will give temporary relief. What you need is RO water at same temp as current qt temp. You want to use an air stone for atleast 30 minutes before you place him in the container of ro water. He may play dead just watch his breathing. If you have a dark container you will be able to see the flukes as white spot in the bottom. Do not dip longer then 5 minutes. Once complete you can place him back in QT.
 
If it flukes it can be treated with prazipro. I also had flukes at one point. Im not sure how they may have gotten in your system. If you believe the fish can last through a fresh water dip this will give temporary relief. What you need is RO water at same temp as current qt temp. You want to use an air stone for atleast 30 minutes before you place him in the container of ro water. He may play dead just watch his breathing. If you have a dark container you will be able to see the flukes as white spot in the bottom. Do not dip longer then 5 minutes. Once complete you can place him back in QT.
ok thanks how long should he be in their for? how did you treat yours ok i have a dark container too. will keep updated thanks
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top