Help with electrical setup

[bh750]

Hi all, I have a 220g tank and a seperate "power station" off to the side. Basically I built a wooden box mounted on a wall next to my tank where I then mounted my Apex Contorller & modules, and two DJ power strips. Right now I'm plugging in all of my equipment to the Apex Power Bar and the DJs using extension cords maybe, 5-10 feet. I know this is not a long term solution and want to do this right -- and safe.

Oh, and the Apex and DJs are powered by two dedicated 20 amp circuits, with GFIC outlets at the start of the circuit. I also do have a ground probe in place

Originally I was thinking I would make some custom length cords but was told they're still considered "extension cords".

So now I'm thinking of doing this:

1) Mounting my Apex Power Bar to under the tank, next to the sump.

2) Mounting a few good quality power strips there as well, under the tank, next to the sump. The power strips would be plugged into the DJ power strips at the "power station".

I just finished about 2 hours of reading here around electricity and safety but I'm sure that's just the tip of the iceberg.

How does this sound? Any other advice or approaches?

 

[FFFishy]

I have an Apex power bar under my tank (120G) and two more of them at my basement sump. I'm not using DJ Power Strips. I'm guessing that you want them for the 'individual outlet switching' that they provide. I considered that for my system but realized that I might switch something OFF at the DJ during normal maintenance, and forget to switch it back ON. For that reason, I do all of my switching from the Apex App on my iPhone. Also, you might have some devices that don't need to have an Apex outlet, yet should have constant power (like Ecotech Battery Backups, Radion Lights, Vortech Pumps). In my system, those devices are plugged into heavy-duty surge strips, under the tank, without any power switching capability.

 

[Dahni]

Hi all, I have a 220g tank and a seperate "power station" off to the side. Basically I built a wooden box mounted on a wall next to my tank where I then mounted my Apex Contorller & modules, and two DJ power strips. Right now I'm plugging in all of my equipment to the Apex Power Bar and the DJs using extension cords maybe, 5-10 feet. I know this is not a long term solution and want to do this right -- and safe.

Oh, and the Apex and DJs are powered by two dedicated 20 amp circuits, with GFIC outlets at the start of the circuit. I also do have a ground probe in place

Originally I was thinking I would make some custom length cords but was told they're still considered "extension cords".

So now I'm thinking of doing this:

1) Mounting my Apex Power Bar to under the tank, next to the sump.

2) Mounting a few good quality power strips there as well, under the tank, next to the sump. The power strips would be plugged into the DJ power strips at the "power station".

I just finished about 2 hours of reading here around electricity and safety but I'm sure that's just the tip of the iceberg.

How does this sound? Any other advice or approaches?

Where is your Apex powered at?

 

[bh750]

I have an Apex power bar under my tank (120G) and two more of them at my basement sump. I'm not using DJ Power Strips. I'm guessing that you want them for the 'individual outlet switching' that they provide. I considered that for my system but realized that I might switch something OFF at the DJ during normal maintenance, and forget to switch it back ON. For that reason, I do all of my switching from the Apex App on my iPhone. Also, you might have some devices that don't need to have an Apex outlet, yet should have constant power (like Ecotech Battery Backups, Radion Lights, Vortech Pumps). In my system, those devices are plugged into heavy-duty surge strips, under the tank, without any power switching capability.

Thats right. I like to have the ability to turn things on/off without pulling out a plug. I dont have many. But want to do it safe.

 

[FFFishy]

At my sump, two Apex power bars are plugged into a single 20 amp circuit. Note that each Apex power bar plug into its own GFCI outlet. Up at the tank, one Apex power bar is plugged into a single 20 amp circuit, through a GFCI outlet. So I have two 20 amp circuits (one at the sump and one at the tank). The Apex itself is located at the sump and powered through the first power bar. I've also got the 'Apex emergency power' connected to an APC UPS that is powered from the 'sump 20 amp circuit'.

 

[FFFishy]

Thats right. I like to have the ability to turn things on/off without pulling out a plug. I dont have many. But want to do it safe.

I never touch the plugs. I'm using the Apex app on my iPhone for on/off/auto control.

 

[bh750]

Where is your Apex powered at?

The apex is powered via the Energy Bar which is plugged into one of the dedicated 20 Amp outlets.

 

[bh750]

I never touch the plugs. I'm using the Apex app on my iPhone for on/off/auto control.

Yea that would be ideal. But I don't want to spend $120-$160 for a new energy bar if I don't have to.

 

[Dahni]

I have an Apex power bar under my tank (120G) and two more of them at my basement sump. I'm not using DJ Power Strips. I'm guessing that you want them for the 'individual outlet switching' that they provide. I considered that for my system but realized that I might switch something OFF at the DJ during normal maintenance, and forget to switch it back ON. For that reason, I do all of my switching from the Apex App on my iPhone. Also, you might have some devices that don't need to have an Apex outlet, yet should have constant power (like Ecotech Battery Backups, Radion Lights, Vortech Pumps). In my system, those devices are plugged into heavy-duty surge strips, under the tank, without any power switching capability.

 

[Zack K]

@Brew12

 

[Brew12]

Originally I was thinking I would make some custom length cords but was told they're still considered "extension cords".

Can I ask what your concern is with this? Is this for a system in your home?

 

[bh750]

Hey Brew. I've done a bunch of reading on here around electricity, alot of its been from you! This is in my home. My concern is safety. I use a DIY forum that has electricians as moderators and they have me scared about codes and safety, rightly so. RIght now I have a tangle of extension cords to/from my "power center". I want to clean it up and also make it safe.

 

[Brew12]

Hey Brew. I've done a bunch of reading on here around electricity, alot of its been from you! This is in my home. My concern is safety. I use a DIY forum that has electricians as moderators and they have me scared about codes and safety, rightly so. RIght now I have a tangle of extension cords to/from my "power center". I want to clean it up and also make it safe.

As a home owner you don't need to worry about the same codes as a commercial entity. I actually like the idea of doing custom length cords if you are comfortable ensuring they are made the correct way. If you are not comfortable making them you can purchase ones close to the correct length.

Extension cords pose a few safety issues which is why there are so many regulations regarding using them.

People tend to run them through areas where they are subject to damage, such through doors. Not a concern in your case.
People tend to run them in areas they pose tripping hazards. Not a concern in your case.
People tend to run them under carpets where they cannot release heat properly and can lead to a fire. Not a concern in your case.
Long extension cords can cause voltage drop issues which causes the equipment they are powering to draw more current. Not a concern in your case.
Extension cords are often not used IAW their ratings. Not a concern with proper planning.

There is an elevated risk due to the extra connections that they involve. There is also a concern with proper assembly if an extension cord is home made or repaired. The fact that you use GFCI mitigates those concerns.

If you do make your own extension cords I would recommend the following.
Use an electrical cable that is UL listed for use in extension cords, such as SJOOW.
Use plugs that are UL listed.
Use a ohmmeter to verify that your connections are correct. Test hot to hot, neutral to neutral, and ground to ground. Test both to ensure the correct ends are connected on each side and also test to ensure there is not connected to the other 2.
Putting a few layers of electrical tape (preferably 33+) around the connections would be a good idea for equipment you won't be frequently disconnecting for maintenance.

 

[MagisterDamask]

I'm also an electrician and I agree with Brew12. Buy yourself a good multimeter, that way you can test voltage, ohm out your wires, verify polarity etc. Fluke and field piece make good ones. I like making custom length drop cords for my projects, just make sure the outer jacket and wires are stripped to the correct length per manufacturer instruction on the male and female ends you install. There is usually a strip length diagram that is etched into the inside of the plug. I like these plugs because they are water resistant and they do hold the outer jacket better to keep your wires from pulling out, in case you snatch it out by the cord or step on it accidentally. You can find these at Home Depot or Lowe's in the electrical section near the receptacles and light switches usually.

 

[bh750]

As a home owner you don't need to worry about the same codes as a commercial entity. I actually like the idea of doing custom length cords if you are comfortable ensuring they are made the correct way. If you are not comfortable making them you can purchase ones close to the correct length.

Extension cords pose a few safety issues which is why there are so many regulations regarding using them.

People tend to run them through areas where they are subject to damage, such through doors. Not a concern in your case.
People tend to run them in areas they pose tripping hazards. Not a concern in your case.
People tend to run them under carpets where they cannot release heat properly and can lead to a fire. Not a concern in your case.
Long extension cords can cause voltage drop issues which causes the equipment they are powering to draw more current. Not a concern in your case.
Extension cords are often not used IAW their ratings. Not a concern with proper planning.

There is an elevated risk due to the extra connections that they involve. There is also a concern with proper assembly if an extension cord is home made or repaired. The fact that you use GFCI mitigates those concerns.

If you do make your own extension cords I would recommend the following.
Use an electrical cable that is UL listed for use in extension cords, such as SJOOW.
Use plugs that are UL listed.
Use a ohmmeter to verify that your connections are correct. Test hot to hot, neutral to neutral, and ground to ground. Test both to ensure the correct ends are connected on each side and also test to ensure there is not connected to the other 2.
Putting a few layers of electrical tape (preferably 33+) around the connections would be a good idea for equipment you won't be frequently disconnecting for maintenance.

Awesome, thanks. Makes me feel right at ease. It seemed like no matter what option I chose there was always problems from them. Never a good safe solution

To me I thought the biggest risk with extension cords is that, b/c they're never the exact size, people left them coiled which can cause overheating?

Anyway, thats a good guide you posted.

I'm also an electrician and I agree with Brew12. Buy yourself a good multimeter, that way you can test voltage, ohm out your wires, verify polarity etc. Fluke and field piece make good ones. I like making custom length drop cords for my projects, just make sure the outer jacket and wires are stripped to the correct length per manufacturer instruction on the male and female ends you install. There is usually a strip length diagram that is etched into the inside of the plug. I like these plugs because they are water resistant and they do hold the outer jacket better to keep your wires from pulling out, in case you snatch it out by the cord or step on it accidentally. You can find these at Home Depot or Lowe's in the electrical section near the receptacles and light switches usually.

Ok. I do have a multimeter, think its a good one. And I think I know how to test OHMS polarity.

Thanks all! I'm gonna research supplies and prices and use your steps. I've done enough wiring for my fish tank this should be a breeze. I'll post the plans in this thread to verify before doing anything!

 

[bh750]

Ok let me know.

Wire: they sell this by the foot at Lowes. I'm thinking 12g just to be safe? Its "SJOOW" and "UL" rated:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-12-to-3-Black-SJOOW-Power-Cord-By-the-Foot/50148240

Connectors: I figured I don't need heavy duty, chemical/wate/weather resistant connectors for $10+. At the same time dont want to skimp on safety. Is this going too cheap? They're UL rated.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Legrand-15-Amp-125-Volt-Black-3-Wire-Grounding-Plug/50179251
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Legrand-15-Amp-125-Volt-Black-3-Wire-Grounding-Connector/50179249

Now that I'm thinking does it do anything if I have 20Amp rated wire and 15Amp rated cable?

 

[Brew12]

Never a good safe solution

You have already taken the safe solution. GFCI with a grounding probe.

Ok let me know.

Wire: they sell this by the foot at Lowes. I'm thinking 12g just to be safe? Its "SJOOW" and "UL" rated:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-12-to-3-Black-SJOOW-Power-Cord-By-the-Foot/50148240

Connectors: I figured I don't need heavy duty, chemical/wate/weather resistant connectors for $10+. At the same time dont want to skimp on safety. Is this going too cheap? They're UL rated.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Legrand-15-Amp-125-Volt-Black-3-Wire-Grounding-Plug/50179251
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Legrand-15-Amp-125-Volt-Black-3-Wire-Grounding-Connector/50179249

Now that I'm thinking does it do anything if I have 20Amp rated wire and 15Amp rated cable?

That cable would be fine. In this application it would be rated to 25 amps. The 14AWG is rated to 18 amps which is still more than you need. You could get away with going down to 16AWG but I wouldn't recommend it. I'd either use the 12AWG or 14AWG.

In my opinion you can get away with using the less expensive connectors if they won't be in the vacinity of your sump. Otherwise, you will eventually have issues with salt creep. If the connections will be made outside of your stand you will be fine.
A good compromise would be to use the water tight connectors on the "field" end and the less expensive connectors on the power strip end.

 

[bh750]

You have already taken the safe solution. GFCI with a grounding probe.



That cable would be fine. In this application it would be rated to 25 amps. The 14AWG is rated to 18 amps which is still more than you need. You could get away with going down to 16AWG but I wouldn't recommend it. I'd either use the 12AWG or 14AWG.

In my opinion you can get away with using the less expensive connectors if they won't be in the vacinity of your sump. Otherwise, you will eventually have issues with salt creep. If the connections will be made outside of your stand you will be fine.
A good compromise would be to use the water tight connectors on the "field" end and the less expensive connectors on the power strip end.

Ok good point. The one end will be at my sump for sure. good idea. So I'll use the higher end water tight ones there.

While I'm at it, what about replacing my GFIC outlets with GFIC/AFCI outlets? Picked up on that with all my reading here. My existing outlets are over 10 years old, or about that, and have tripped couple times a year at most.

 

[Brew12]

Ok good point. The one end will be at my sump for sure. good idea. So I'll use the higher end water tight ones there.

While I'm at it, what about replacing my GFIC outlets with GFIC/AFCI outlets? Picked up on that with all my reading here. My existing outlets are over 10 years old, or about that, and have tripped couple times a year at most.

I'm not sure how old your house is, but have you checked to see if your panel breakers are AFCI? AFCI became required by code in 2002 in some residential applications so you may already have it. If your breaker box has a main breaker at the top it could be AFCI. If it is, it protects the entire house.
AFCI outlets aren't a bad idea but I prefer using AFCI at the power panels to protect the wiring inside the outlets, not just the loads.

 

[MagisterDamask]

Bigger wire is good, you'll have less resistance and it will shed heat better. It doesn't matter if you're using 12AWG wire, and your receptacles are on a 15 amp circuit with 14/2 wire either because the 12AWG will carry more current but the 15 amp breaker will still trip at its threshold even though 12AWG will carry 20-25 amps technically. @Brew12 is on point with NOT using 16AWG wire, I won't even use that on one run of LED Christmas lights [emoji23]. Those small drop cords running everywhere at people's houses scare the devil out of me. 12/3 is a good choice in my opinion as well. Plan the work and work the plan, take it slow. Don't rush into it and do not use a razor knife to strip the outer jacket of your diy drop cord, you will cut through the wire jacket all the way to the copper. Use a good sharp knife and go easy you do not have to cut all the way through the outer jacket just get real close and then bend it and it will break loose and then pull it off the end.