Help with Fish, Coral, etc.

[BestMomEver]

As for your parameters... you want ammonia and nitrite to be zero and nitrate to be lower than 10. Some people run their tanks with negligible nitrate... called Ultra Low Nutrients or ULN. Some run very high... like 20. Most of us try to maintain somewhere in the middle. As time goes on, you’ll want to test for phosphate too. Phosphate and nitrate are nutrients that algae love. Try to keep them low and the algae will be minimal. FYI... if you have algae, your phosphate and nitrate will likely test at 0. That’s not because you have none, but because the algae is eating it all. Once your ammonia and nitrite are 0, go back and get your cleanup crew (CUC).

 

[Justin Teufel]

As for your parameters... you want ammonia and nitrite to be zero and nitrate to be lower than 10. Some people run their tanks with negligible nitrate... called Ultra Low Nutrients or ULN. Some run very high... like 20. Most of us try to maintain somewhere in the middle. As time goes on, you’ll want to test for phosphate too. Phosphate and nitrate are nutrients that algae love. Try to keep them low and the algae will be minimal. FYI... if you have algae, your phosphate and nitrate will likely test at 0. That’s not because you have none, but because the algae is eating it all. Once your ammonia and nitrite are 0, go back and get your cleanup crew (CUC).

How do I get my phosphates down?

 

[BestMomEver]

Lower feeding amount. Carbon, or phosphate remover media (phosban, etc.), water changes. There’s lots of ways. You don’t need to worry about that just yet. Finish the cycle and let the algae die back first. Phosphate is typically not dangerous unless it’s REALLY high. It is a type of nutrient. If it’s there, you’ll have nuisance stuff. Algae is present in all aquariums, even if you can’t see it. It performs a useful function but in order for other things to flourish, it needs to be kept at a minimum. I’ve had lots of corals get smothered out by excess algae attaching to it. At this stage it’s not an issue. I would first get better test kits.... good kits will be your best friend.

 

[Justin Teufel]

Lower feeding amount. Carbon, or phosphate remover media (phosban, etc.), water changes. There’s lots of ways. You don’t need to worry about that just yet. Finish the cycle and let the algae die back first. Phosphate is typically not dangerous unless it’s REALLY high. It is a type of nutrient. If it’s there, you’ll have nuisance stuff. Algae is present in all aquariums, even if you can’t see it. It performs a useful function but in order for other things to flourish, it needs to be kept at a minimum. I’ve had lots of corals get smothered out by excess algae attaching to it. At this stage it’s not an issue. I would first get better test kits.... good kits will be your best friend.

Thank you! I am also going to cover the sides of the tank so that no light can get in.

 

[BestMomEver]

Thank you! I am also going to cover the sides of the tank so that no light can get in.

Good idea. Also, check into the BRS videos. There’s tons of great info there.

 

[Oldsalt]

In FW yes. In saltwater it is not.

Here's a great article about nitrite :

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-06/rhf/index.php