Help with leaking co2 reg

BullyBee

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My co2 reg is leaking from the nut in the picture below. Every time I turn on the solenoid and open up the co2 tank for flow, the co2 shoots out of the nut with enough force, like when you relieve the pressure release valve. Anyone have any ideas what it could be?

CEFC3922-B7B8-44A5-8EA2-405A42297DD8.jpeg
 
Check and make sure their is a washer.
If their is one tighten it.
I did not tighten it enough when I first setup my carx and the whole thing emptied over night.
Replaced the empty one and tightened it up and no issues.
You can spray the nut with soapy water and check for bubbles when its under pressure.
Also you do not use teflon tape on the threads.
 
Assuming you are taking about the nut to the canister, check and replace the nylon washer if needed. You can also re-tape the threads with Teflon tape.
 
More than likely you are missing the washer or it isnt seated properly. I use these and change them everytime I change tanks.

 
Check and make sure their is a washer.
If their is one tighten it.
I did not tighten it enough when I first setup my carx and the whole thing emptied over night.
Replaced the empty one and tightened it up and no issues.
You can spray the nut with soapy water and check for bubbles when its under pressure.
Also you do not use teflon tape on the threads.

this is where i am talking about
InkedIMG_2404_LI.jpg
 
Think that is the pressure relief valve. Either faulty or you blew the reg seat\ diaphram.
Is it hissing every time you open the tank valve?

They don't normally look like that though. What brand?
 
Last edited:
Think that is the pressure relief valve. Either faulty or you blew the reg seat\ diaphram.
Is it hissing every time you open the tank valve?

They don't normally look like that though. What brand?

its a brand new milwaukee regulator. everytime i open the valve it hisses
 
Looks like a plug to me. Could be a pressure release valve though if it uses a burst disc. It's either not seated fully or if it's a PRV the disc inside is no good.
 
its a brand new milwaukee regulator. everytime i open the valve it hisses


I'm not seeing any of the gauges responding.. Tank pressure or outlet pressure..

Are you sure it's not the nut to tank seal?.

The nut really does nothing so tape isn't necessary.

Like others suggested how is the ACTUAL seal (paper/nylon/teflon disk or perma-seal)?

The tank to regulator needs to be really tight.

The pressure relief should open in the event of > it's setpoint (prob around 50psi-ish) and normally reseal at
lower pressure.

Your tank pressure guage should always move w/ or without the relief opening.
Err need to think about that a bit for a single stage.

Anyway new so I'd contact seller/milwaukee.
 
I'm not seeing any of the gauges responding.. Tank pressure or outlet pressure..

Are you sure it's not the nut to tank seal?.

The nut really does nothing so tape isn't necessary.

Like others suggested how is the ACTUAL seal (paper/nylon/teflon disk or perma-seal)?

The tank to regulator needs to be really tight.

The pressure relief should open in the event of > it's setpoint (prob around 50psi-ish) and normally reseal at
lower pressure.

Your tank pressure guage should always move w/ or without the relief opening.
Err need to think about that a bit for a single stage.

Anyway new so I'd contact seller/milwaukee.


ill re-install the regulator. the nut to tank seal is tight as tight can be. I can feel the pressure coming out of the little nut circled in the picture above. ill give it another shot though.

I already contacted the seller I got it from. I know they will take care of me if need be because Reef Supplies is great like that.
 
ill re-install the regulator. the nut to tank seal is tight as tight can be. I can feel the pressure coming out of the little nut circled in the picture above. ill give it another shot though.

I already contacted the seller I got it from. I know they will take care of me if need be because Reef Supplies is great like that.
See here for hints..

Not sure why it's on the high side..Tank has it's own burst disc for over pressure.. ;

normally on the low side to prevent downstream damage..on 1 stage regs.. 2 stage is different no low side (usually) but a "mid side" of 150-300psi relief valve..

On a new reg DON'T recommend this..
Shut the valve on the tank off and take the regulator off of the tank. You can take a small screwdriver an undo it but got to be careful there is a small spring and a vary small rubber valve that covers a hole.
You can check to see if the valve is set in the hole right then put the spring back on and tighten the screw back on but do not over tighten the screw it spouse to be a pressure relief valve.
Mine had gotten lose after haveing my tank fill and it empty my tank in 3 weeks.
 
Last edited:
I'm not seeing any of the gauges responding.. Tank pressure or outlet pressure..

Are you sure it's not the nut to tank seal?.

The nut really does nothing so tape isn't necessary.

Like others suggested how is the ACTUAL seal (paper/nylon/teflon disk or perma-seal)?

The tank to regulator needs to be really tight.

The pressure relief should open in the event of > it's setpoint (prob around 50psi-ish) and normally reseal at
lower pressure.

Your tank pressure guage should always move w/ or without the relief opening.
Err need to think about that a bit for a single stage.

Anyway new so I'd contact seller/milwaukee.

Heres why you aren't seeing the pressure gauges moving. The one on the right has its needle stuck behind the the post at the starting point/zero point.
IMG_2408.JPG
 
See here for hints..

Not sure why it's on the high side..Tank has it's own burst disc for over pressure.. ;

normally on the low side to prevent downstream damage..on 1 stage regs.. 2 stage is different no low side (usually) but a "mid side" of 150-300psi relief valve..

On a new reg DON'T recommend this..

So you do or don't recommend tightening the screw?
 
Turn the front valve/knob all the way down and start over. Let the co2 bleed off from the output. It might just be doing it's job if second stage pressure is that high.
 
Turn the front valve/knob all the way down and start over. Let the co2 bleed off from the output. It might just be doing it's job if second stage pressure is that high.
There is no second stage. There is tank pressure and outlet pressure.
So you do or don't recommend tightening the screw?
I never recommend messing w/ new under warranty stuff.

That said "if" the pressure relief is for overpressure at the tank just bleed off some.
Tank will have a tare weight stamped on it.
That and a scale will tell you if it's overfilled.

Weight the current tank and bleed off a pound of gas.

More the tank weighs over fill weight the higher the pressure.
 
Turn the front valve/knob all the way down and start over. Let the co2 bleed off from the output. It might just be doing it's job if second stage pressure is that high.

it worked....well kind of....water shot out of my bubble counter and came out of the release valve. im gonna let everything dry and do it again. i think that was the fix i needed. I think i had the main knob on the regulator open too much. I am letting it drain right now, its sitting at 50psi.
 
A regulator has one job..to regulate pressure..shouldn't be blowing out anything. Second if designed right you should never exceed relief pressure..

But..glad you got it sort of fixed.
 
20ish PSI is probably going to be more like it. Try and get it around there. You want just enough to keep the bubble stream steady and reliable and no more. Sometimes 15 PSI is enough. In any case, these are not super high quality instruments and while 15 make work for some, others might need 30, so just mess around with it.

What makes it worse is that some of those regulators turn clockwise to tighten and some turn the other way. I think that the Milwaukee turns counter to lower the PSI and clockwise to raise it, but I have no used one in a long time.

All of this is why there is no singular way to setup a CaRx... the equipment, combined with bubble sizes and media density just make everything a one-off.
 
All of this is why there is no singular way to setup a CaRx... the equipment, combined with bubble sizes and media density just make everything a one-off.

i dont even know what a CaRx is. this is for a planted tank :)
 

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