Help with SPS in my tank

[Mystikal]

I’m curious, what is your PH. Do you have your results from an monitor?

tank too young, is a possibility, but not the end all.

 

[ScottB]

I've been reading through several more threads and found this one to be helpful:

Musings from an intermediate Acro junkie and what i KNOW to be true about growing acros

I have been in the hobby for a few yrs. I KNOW there are guys who know way more than me about taxonomy, have way more experience with growing sticks + all the different lighting equipment, and better at every other aspect.. In the past few years, (2015) I went from a relatively newbie, to I...

www.reef2reef.com

Any thoughts on PE and ULN?

My current NO3 is 3ppm and PO4 0.02ppm which qualifies as ULN in my opinion.

So does little to no PE indicate coral is lacking nutrients and starving? Does the no PE allow the coral to soak up more light for energy?

That was a good link. I subscribe to most of those protocols.

As to PE and nutrients, I have not found a definitive connection one way or the other. I used to run very lean on nutrients similar to yours and my PE was just OK on tenuis. Better on millis of course. Now I run +10 and +.1 and have very limited PE. A pic of Disney under morning blues and you have to squint to see polyps.

As to PE & health, also hard for me to confirm. I would think there is a strong correlation but then this same colony was a 1.5" frag bought at MACNA Orlando 2019, so I don't think PE is REQUIRED. It is desirable for me visually but not required. I don't have PE figured out yet.

 

[JWsticks]

How is the flow in the tank. Do you any montipora this is show PE?

 

[arking_mark]

How is the flow in the tank. Do you any montipora this is show PE?

I think flow is ok. Added a wavebox...whole tank is now dancing.

 

[arking_mark]

I’m curious, what is your PH. Do you have your results from an monitor?

tank too young, is a possibility, but not the end all.

I am using an oversized skimmer with a recirculating CO2 Scrubber to maintain pH. pH is usually between 8.27 and 8.34 daily.

 

[leepink23]

I'm using a Seneye for measuring the PAR. I'm having difficulties with my softies on the sand because it's over 150 PAR except in the shade.

I am using the Kessil narrow reflectors which decreases spillage and increases PAR.

I have found the Seneye to read very high compared to apogee 510. I tested multiple apogee and Seneye. I struggled with growth and color when I trusted the seneye. I thought I was getting 350, was really closer to 175

 

[arking_mark]

I have found the Seneye to read very high compared to apogee 510. I tested multiple apogee and Seneye. I struggled with growth and color when I trusted the seneye. I thought I was getting 350, was really closer to 175

Very good to note.

I'll borrow a par meter from my local club.

 

[arking_mark]

ICP test cane back clean. Iodine and Strontium a tad low, but nothing of concern.

 

[Seamus]

I agree on the T5s. I had four radions on a six foot tank, so plenty of PAR and good coverage, but the acros really took off when I added an aquaticlife T5 fixture. It's a pretty clean setup, at least with radions, so you don't have a bunch of clutter on top of your tank. I only run the T5s 4 hours a day, but it made a difference.

 

[arking_mark]

I agree on the T5s. I had four radions on a six foot tank, so plenty of PAR and good coverage, but the acros really took off when I added an aquaticlife T5 fixture. It's a pretty clean setup, at least with radions, so you don't have a bunch of clutter on top of your tank. I only run the T5s 4 hours a day, but it made a difference.

I hear you on the lights and know that T5s would help with shading. However, I don't think it's a light issue at this time unless my Seneye par readings are off.

 

[leepink23]

This BC Aquatic-man has been in the tank for 3 months with no PE.

It's been tabling a little and until 3 days ago was completely green like the left hand side.

Not sure if it not being completely green is an issue or it doing something else.

This is my aquatic man table, 275 par apogee 510

 

[arking_mark]

This is my aquatic man table, 275 par apogee 510

Yep. Mine looks nothing like that.

 

[arking_mark]

Night shot of last batch...

 

[ScottB]

Night shot of last batch...

It is a good idea to mount them like that. Otherwise they get impossible to remove and move around.

 

[arking_mark]

It is a good idea to mount them like that. Otherwise they get impossible to remove and move around.

1st they have to survive...

 

[Perry]

I will offer this:
In 16 years at acros, the one shift that has happened is that of fiji ocean rock. If you ever had it, you would know, and a flashlight at night was as captivating as corals in light. That said, my current system was established with mostly dead rock, and until I reached the 2 year mark, did I see acros flourish. There is something that a bottle of whatever, simply cannot replicate. Your rock has no visible coraline, sponges, dusters, and that's just the surface, it also appears dense, less bacteria homing. All of this said, it will work, but life has to establish entirely through the system, pineapple sponges in overflow usually a good sign. The word clean is misunderstood, and yes, acros love "clean " water, with heavy import/export. A "clean" system is entirely different. I think ScottB mentioned inland aquatics, but a worm, pod, mud, micro star, live rock rubble, sponges, is where I would spend my $, not on acros yet. Look for tank break downs, and try and source mature rock, put it in the sump. The stuff you need is out there, just have to search for it.
Now, that said, I would say that a carbon source/ bacteria source system, with biomedia and possibly zeovit or AF methods could possibly work, day 1, with sps, but I highly recommend against unless you can dedicate massive amounts of time and $.
Cheers
Edit: Inland Aquatics has been out of biz for many years, I meant Indo Pacific Sea Farms

 

[JWsticks]

In your previous pic, I'm not seeing any coraline growth. Are your PO4 readings tested with a Hanna Phosphate ULR? If not, start investing in one if you're serious about SPS.

 

[arking_mark]

I will offer this:
In 16 years at acros, the one shift that has happened is that of fiji ocean rock. If you ever had it, you would know, and a flashlight at night was as captivating as corals in light. That said, my current system was established with mostly dead rock, and until I reached the 2 year mark, did I see acros flourish. There is something that a bottle of whatever, simply cannot replicate. Your rock has no visible coraline, sponges, dusters, and that's just the surface, it also appears dense, less bacteria homing. All of this said, it will work, but life has to establish entirely through the system, pineapple sponges in overflow usually a good sign. The word clean is misunderstood, and yes, acros love "clean " water, with heavy import/export. A "clean" system is entirely different. I think ScottB mentioned inland aquatics, but a worm, pod, mud, micro star, live rock rubble, sponges, is where I would spend my $, not on acros yet. Look for tank break downs, and try and source mature rock, put it in the sump. The stuff you need is out there, just have to search for it.
Now, that said, I would say that a carbon source/ bacteria source system, with biomedia and possibly zeovit or AF methods could possibly work, day 1, with sps, but I highly recommend against unless you can dedicate massive amounts of time and $.
Cheers

Thanks for the insight. I did bring in two rocks from my old system that was 7+ years old that had stuff from my older tanks... I agree that the tank is not a mature tank.

Curiously, I'm not growing coralline algae well. The rocks that came over had some nice coverage but never spread. Since adding bottled coralline algae several weeks ago, I now have it showing up on my back walls and other areas, but not on the rock. The rock is covered in dark green where the light hits it...everywhere else is pretty white.

I have Asterina stars, mini serpent stars, bristle worms, Collonista snails, tons of pods, and a large clean-up crew.

I try to avoid bringing anything into the tank that hasn't been quarantined. So I'm worried about bringing in stuff from tank breakdowns. Maybe hitting up fellow reefers who I trust is a better approach.

I think you are referring to http://ipsf.com/ for additional biodiversity. The only thing I found there with adding is "SurfZone Live Sand Activator Plus ordered alone $59.95". Since it's open to the ocean, no guarantee that it doesn't introduce pests.

 

[arking_mark]

In your previous pic, I'm not seeing any coraline growth. Are your PO4 readings tested with a Hanna Phosphate ULR? If not, start investing in one if you're serious about SPS.

I have been testing PO4 with Hanna ULR Phosphate checker as well as quarterly-ish ICP testing.

Coralline is growing on the back wall, refugium, and black frag plugs and disks. It basically loves anything black. Not sure why it doesn't seem to like my rocks yet. My old tank had similar issues. Back wall and shaded areas grew Coralline...everywhere else, not so much.

 

[T-J]

I have found the Seneye to read very high compared to apogee 510. I tested multiple apogee and Seneye. I struggled with growth and color when I trusted the seneye. I thought I was getting 350, was really closer to 175

Interesting. I have a Seneye and compared it to my local reef club's Apogee. The results were almost exact. I did a map of my entire tank using both units, and the readings were within 10 or so PAR of each other. I wonder if it depends on the combinations of LED's that are being used?

My lights are 4 XR15 Gen 5 Pros running the AB+ schedule. Perhaps if someone is running more/less blue, that may affect the readings on Seneye vs Apogee?