Your rightThis is so unnecessary now. Absolutely no reason to torture a fish when you can add bacteria and either ghost feed or add ammonia. The only reason the fish is there is for its poop.
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Your rightThis is so unnecessary now. Absolutely no reason to torture a fish when you can add bacteria and either ghost feed or add ammonia. The only reason the fish is there is for its poop.
That's the blessing in disguise, 10g's you can snap your finger and reboot.At that point with that size tank maybe it best to restart
lol I should complete it for an easy copy/paste to these newb rush situationsThis should be a total flow chart. Seriously, lol.
www.reef2reef.com
www.reef2reef.com
www.reef2reef.com
OP: I agree, but remember these are also marketing videos. Good for general education to get started, but you dont need the million recommended products they advise either.I recommend watching 52 weeks of reefing from Bulk Reef Supply
As everyone has already pointed out, it's time to probably hit the pause/reset button on this endeavour.
* If you don't have salt and RO water, you're not ready
* If you don't have the proper testing kits, you're not ready
* If you're planning to add fish and corals right away, you're not ready
* If you don't have the right setup (including lights, filtration, etc.) for your tank, you're not ready
Low salinity temporarily would have been okOk guys Ik I did my research and I made a mistake. I’m doing a 95/5 percent water change with fresh saltwater, [forget] the local fish shop, I am also gonna clean the dead crabs out and, put in fritz turbo start.
Is this good?
BINGO!! They should have this posted on every lfs front door.As everyone has already pointed out, it's time to probably hit the pause/reset button on this endeavour.
* If you don't have salt and RO water, you're not ready
* If you don't have the proper testing kits, you're not ready
* If you're planning to add fish and corals right away, you're not ready
* If you don't have the right setup (including lights, filtration, etc.) for your tank, you're not ready
Doesn't matter to me. I'm not the one who's tank is dying...Ok guys Ik I did my research and I made a mistake.
Week 3 , add a sailfin and/or black molly as test fish. Once fish are in then you add crabs or snails
Doesn't matter to me. I'm not the one who's tank is dying...![]()
thanksWHAT?? This is completely backwards!
My suggestion based on your tank size:
Use saltwater that has a specific gravity of 1.024-1.026, add a heater and keep temp near 78 F.
1. Add bacteria and ghost feed (add a small amount of food every other day) Buy test kits for pH, ammonia and nitrate. (See my comments on using API at the end)
2. Test ammonia and nitrate on day 4 to get an idea of how the cycle is starting. Also test pH and salinity. If ammonia is 0, use more food.
3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you have 0 ammonia and 2-10 nitrate.
4. Do a water change (10-20%), ghost feed, and then test ammo and nitrate 24 hours later
**THESE STEPS SHOULD TAKE YOU TO WEEK 3 OR 4
5a. If your test shows ammo, add bacteria and go back to step 3.
5b. If ammo and nitrates are still 0 and 2-10, THEN add a few snails and/or hermits. Again, get used to testing pH and salinity (and add fresh water frequently to replace what's evaporated). Buy test kits for alk, Calcium, magnesium now, if you plan to add coral soon.
6. AFTER ANOTHER 2-3 WEEKS, if ammo is still 0, you can add 1 or 2
hearty fish or an easy coral. Test ammo a day after adding fish, and add more bacteria if it's anything but 0.
7. Continue SLOWLY adding fish or coral, and test at least weekly.
If at any point ammo starts registering, add bacteria and SLOW down, waiting a week or so before adding anything else.
*API tests are OK for your initial cycle but be sure to read the ammonia test tube on a white background. If you had high ammonia at first (as you should have) and after 4 weeks the color has a *slightly* greenish tint, if you have a steady nitrate reading (indicating that you have enough bacteria in the system to convert ammonia to nitrite to nitrate), then the *slightly* greenish color can be read as 0 ammonia.
So, I just spent 20 minutes on this... You're welcome.
Android lolDoesn't matter to me. I'm not the one who's tank is dying...![]()
What do I do Bc my tank was fine and I got the clear to get coral from my local saltwater fish store and my order is unable to be canceledWHAT?? This is completely backwards!
My suggestion based on your tank size:
Use saltwater that has a specific gravity of 1.024-1.026, add a heater and keep temp near 78 F.
1. Add bacteria and ghost feed (add a small amount of food every other day) Buy test kits for pH, ammonia and nitrate. (See my comments on using API at the end)
2. Test ammonia and nitrate on day 4 to get an idea of how the cycle is starting. Also test pH and salinity. If ammonia is 0, use more food.
3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you have 0 ammonia and 2-10 nitrate.
4. Do a water change (10-20%), ghost feed, and then test ammo and nitrate 24 hours later
**THESE STEPS SHOULD TAKE YOU TO WEEK 3 OR 4
5a. If your test shows ammo, add bacteria and go back to step 3.
5b. If ammo and nitrates are still 0 and 2-10, THEN add a few snails and/or hermits. Again, get used to testing pH and salinity (and add fresh water frequently to replace what's evaporated). Buy test kits for alk, Calcium, magnesium now, if you plan to add coral soon.
6. AFTER ANOTHER 2-3 WEEKS, if ammo is still 0, you can add 1 or 2
hearty fish or an easy coral. Test ammo a day after adding fish, and add more bacteria if it's anything but 0.
7. Continue SLOWLY adding fish or coral, and test at least weekly.
If at any point ammo starts registering, add bacteria and SLOW down, waiting a week or so before adding anything else.
*API tests are OK for your initial cycle but be sure to read the ammonia test tube on a white background. If you had high ammonia at first (as you should have) and after 4 weeks the color has a *slightly* greenish tint, if you have a steady nitrate reading (indicating that you have enough bacteria in the system to convert ammonia to nitrite to nitrate), then the *slightly* greenish color can be read as 0 ammonia.
So, I just spent 20 minutes on this... You're welcome.
Doesn't matter to me. I'm not the one who's tank is dying...![]()
![]()
queue the mod to shut this troll down

