HIGH END Tenuis Hoarder

[StatelineReefer]

@SBB Corals how long do you recommend waiting after a new tank is set up before adding SPS corals?

You know enough people with estabished tanks and good quarantine and husbandry practices. We could get you on the road to success in 9 weeks, but you need to establish and cultivate a biome that supports sps in particular.

 

[SBB Corals]

@SBB Corals how long do you recommend waiting after a new tank is set up before adding SPS corals?

personally i would reccomend 3-6 months once you start testing for alk, calk, mag, Iodine, po4 and no3 on a regual bases and get all the levels in place then the tank can hold sps.

also it depends on if you are using dry rock or cycled live rock.

which are you using?

also are you testing all those parameters and what are they?

also are you making your own RODI water or using it from the LFS??

if the water you are making is still dirty with tds more then 0 then you could wait 2 years to put in sps and it would not make a diffrence.

 

[SBB Corals]

If anybody has any param or tank question please ask we also encourage SPS talk here and would love love to see your sps pics. show off what you got

 

[SBB Corals]

Good Morning Everyone!

 

[Charlie the Reefer]

Good Morning Everyone!

Good morning Shane. Newbie to SPS here. I just found this thread.

Curious on the RODI thing. To be honest a lot of times I see my TDS meter reading 1-2ppm and just roll with it. Sometimes immediately after changing filters it's 1-2ppm. That said, many times it does read 0 ppm.

My acros are growing just fine, save a few pieces (I have like 20 dif acros at this point). However, I've only been in the game 4 months or so. I'm doing monthly ICPs and haven't seen anything concerning.

Curious if there's anything untestable to worry about in RODI? Or do you think ICPs should cover it. One other thing - I think my polyp extension kind of sucks. Even for acros that are growing / puddling nicely, I feel like vendor pics show much better polyp extension.

Love your acros and collection, I actually have an SBB prom queen and it's one of my favorites!

Thanks!

 

[reefluvrr]

Good morning Shane.

Any tips on how I can get secondary and tertiary colors better on my tenuis? (It use to have more pink) it has been on my tank for 6 months.

At 1st had it under like 400 par and thought it turned more blue. Now I have it at around 285 par.
Do you think higher or lower par helps bring out these secondary/tertiary colors?

Or am I off tangent and it is something else such as trace elements or nutrients?

Thank you Shane for everything you do here!

 

[Charlie the Reefer]

 

[StatelineReefer]

Good morning Shane. Newbie to SPS here. I just found this thread.

Curious on the RODI thing. To be honest a lot of times I see my TDS meter reading 1-2ppm and just roll with it. Sometimes immediately after changing filters it's 1-2ppm. That said, many times it does read 0 ppm.

My acros are growing just fine, save a few pieces (I have like 20 dif acros at this point). However, I've only been in the game 4 months or so. I'm doing monthly ICPs and haven't seen anything concerning.

Curious if there's anything untestable to worry about in RODI? Or do you think ICPs should cover it.

Love your acros and collection, I actually have an SBB prom queen and it's one of my favorites!

Thanks!

ICPs usually cover it. Go to your city's public works page and check their water quality reports. That will tell you what they test for and find allowable, and what they do not. They should also mention whether chlorine or chloramines are used and when.

1-2 tds is still not amazing, depending on what is in that 1-2 tds. Arsenic, lead, copper? all bad at those levels. You should flush your RODI for at least 50 gallons after changing filters (pre membrane so you don't shorten the life of the membranes) and 15 for membrane changes.

 

[SBB Corals]

Good morning Shane. Newbie to SPS here. I just found this thread.

Curious on the RODI thing. To be honest a lot of times I see my TDS meter reading 1-2ppm and just roll with it. Sometimes immediately after changing filters it's 1-2ppm. That said, many times it does read 0 ppm.

My acros are growing just fine, save a few pieces (I have like 20 dif acros at this point). However, I've only been in the game 4 months or so. I'm doing monthly ICPs and haven't seen anything concerning.

Curious if there's anything untestable to worry about in RODI? Or do you think ICPs should cover it. One other thing - I think my polyp extension kind of sucks. Even for acros that are growing / puddling nicely, I feel like vendor pics show much better polyp extension.

Love your acros and collection, I actually have an SBB prom queen and it's one of my favorites!

Thanks!

Good morning and thanks for your comment and contributing to this thread


we would suggest always keeping this at o and never letting anything over 0 go into your tank. So for the after changing the filters thing we would suggest burning off 50 gallons of water before using the NSW into your tank.

and when you say reading 1-2 after changing filters is that reading coming at the final stage of resin? if you change the resin out of the last chamber it should always read 0...

I don’t think ICP covers it. I think something gets through the machine that is untestable...if it reads more than 0 that the ICP test wont pickup. This is just a theory though.


when is the last time you changed your membranes? and all the other filters on the system?

 

[Charlie the Reefer]

ICPs usually cover it. Go to your city's public works page and check their water quality reports. That will tell you what they test for and find allowable, and what they do not. They should also mention whether chlorine or chloramines are used and when.

1-2 tds is still not amazing, depending on what is in that 1-2 tds. Arsenic, lead, copper? all bad at those levels. You should flush your RODI for at least 50 gallons after changing filters (pre membrane so you don't shorten the life of the membranes) and 15 for membrane changes.

Thanks. I have to mention one other very odd thing. My sediment (first stage) filter turns brown after like 10 gallons of water....

Water reads 550 or so TDS straight from faucet.

 

[SBB Corals]

Good morning Shane.

Any tips on how I can get secondary and tertiary colors better on my tenuis? (It use to have more pink) it has been on my tank for 6 months.

At 1st had it under like 400 par and thought it turned more blue. Now I have it at around 285 par.
Do you think higher or lower par helps bring out these secondary/tertiary colors?

Or am I off tangent and it is something else such as trace elements or nutrients?

Thank you Shane for everything you do here!

Good Morning thanks for writing here

This is a tuff one, do you have a pic of how it looked when you 1st got it? I do think Tenuis to get prime colors 400-500 par is ideal. Also what is your no3 and po4, its hard to pin point anything less we know all your paramers. Have you gotten an ICP test recenrly and if so can you share it with us?

 

[Charlie the Reefer]

Good morning and thanks for your comment and contributing to this thread


we would suggest always keeping this at o and never letting anything over 0 go into your tank. So for the after changing the filters thing we would suggest burning off 50 gallons of water before using the NSW into your tank.

and when you say reading 1-2 after changing filters is that reading coming at the final stage of resin? if you change the resin out of the last chamber it should always read 0...

I don’t think ICP covers it. I think something gets through the machine that is untestable...if it reads more than 0 that the ICP test wont pickup. This is just a theory though.


when is the last time you changed your membranes? and all the other filters on the system?

Thanks. I just changed my Anion DI, carbon, and sediment filter two days ago and get 1 TDS. Lol. I'm clearly doing something wrong. ):

I haven't scrutinized my RODI process until recently though (trying to optimize everything).

 

[SBB Corals]

this Tenuis looks perfect in our Opinion.

 

[StatelineReefer]

Thanks. I have to mention one other very odd thing. My sediment (first stage) filter turns brown after like 10 gallons of water....

Water reads 550 or so TDS straight from faucet.

You're in Chicago. Treated city water has a lot of rust in it. I also know from experience that north side and northwest side pumping stations use chloramines in the summer. Chlorine in the winter. You'll also get a ton of silicates and phosphates from the source side, so use a 1 micron filter as your sediment filter. This may reduce pressure, but so does a clogged carbon filter.

 

[SBB Corals]

Thanks. I have to mention one other very odd thing. My sediment (first stage) filter turns brown after like 10 gallons of water....

Water reads 550 or so TDS straight from faucet.

yea your water is Insanely dirty and you can see how bad the sediment filter looks just after 10 gallons. This is really bad in the sense that your tap water is dirty. in this case we highly recommend you add more Sediment filter stages. we would recommend 3 which may be overkill but we recommend doing a 10 micron, 5 micron and 1 micron again this may be overkill but then again you want to keep high end acros... Also you will need to change your sediment filters out more frequently.

Becoming a pro and be overly cautious of using 0 TDS is the number 1 thing we recommend for keeping high end acros.

 

[SBB Corals]

Thanks. I just changed my Anion DI, carbon, and sediment filter two days ago and get 1 TDS. Lol. I'm clearly doing something wrong. ):

I haven't scrutinized my RODI process until recently though (trying to optimize everything).

when is the last time you changed your membranes?

 

[StatelineReefer]

yea your water is Insanely dirty and you can see how bad the sediment filter looks just after 10 gallons. This is really bad in the sense that your tap water is dirty. in this case we highly recommend you add more Sediment filter stages. we would recommend 3 which may be overkill but we recommend doing a 10 micron, 5 micron and 1 micron again this may be overkill but then again you want to keep high end acros... Also you will need to change your sediment filters out more frequently.

Becoming a pro and be overly cautious of using 0 TDS is the number 1 thing we recommend for keeping high end acros.

There's no such thing as overkill when it comes to water quality, Shane... guess who taught me that.

 

[SBB Corals]

There's no such thing as overkill when it comes to water quality, Shane... guess who taught me that.

how are your new acros looking?

 

[StatelineReefer]

how are your new acros looking?

Pale. Moved them into 300 par instead of 350. Caught a crab on them last night... Will check in 3 hours if it did any damage... if it did, it's going into the purgatory sump.

 

[SBB Corals]

Pale. Moved them into 300 par instead of 350. Caught a crab on them last night... Will check in 3 hours if it did any damage... if it did, it's going into the purgatory sump.

Did you check your no3 and po4 recently after all the water changes?