High Phosphates need help!!

[rudyrizzo]

I just bought a Hannah Phosphate checker and my numbers are reading 1.57. I ran GFO in my media reactor for about 4-5 months. I have no algae growth in my tank except for the algae that grows on the glass. I checked my RO water and its reading at a 2. I'm using Fritz salt. I have a Apex Fusion that my ORPs are reading at a 37. I'm losing my ACANS went from amazing to almost dead. My water tests are perfect. What should I do.

 

[lou dog420]

I would have someone else test your water so you can verify your readings are correct.

 

[lou dog420]

How often do you change out your GFO??

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

I just bought a Hannah Phosphate checker and my numbers are reading 1.57. I ran GFO in my media reactor for about 4-5 months. I have no algae growth in my tank except for the algae that grows on the glass. I checked my RO water and its reading at a 2. I'm using Fritz salt. I have a Apex Fusion that my ORPs are reading at a 37. I'm losing my ACANS went from amazing to almost dead. My water tests are perfect. What should I do.

That is 2 ppm or 2 ppb?

Your DI may be depleted if the RO really has 2 ppm phosphate in it.

 

[rudyrizzo]

How often do you change out your GFO??

Changed it 2 times in that period

 

[XNavyDiver]

Like Randy was asking: which Hanna checker are you using? Is your reading in parts per million (ppm) or parts per billion (ppb)?

 

[rudyrizzo]

Like Randy was asking: which Hanna checker are you using? Is your reading in parts per million (ppm) or parts per billion (ppb)?

Ppm

 

[grassy_noel]

I think the first step is as lou dog suggests, have your water tested elsewhere (LFS, chemical test kit, friend's test kit, etc.) to verify that you're not getting an inaccurate reading. If you are noticing symptoms in your tank (acans turning south, etc.) it's possible that your water tests are correct.

I don't think it's normal that you should be getting anywhere near 2ppm of phosphate in your RODI output water. If you are, my opinion is that it's not worth it to try and fight that in the tank. I would either treat the RO water for phosphate before introducing into your tank or temporarily buy RO water from another source until you can get your unit to produce water with 0 (or nearly 0) phosphates.

Phosban says it works in freshwater, I'm not sure about GFO. If it does, it might make sense to make a big batch of RO water and run a GFO or Phosban reactor on that before using it in your tank, for now. This would at least give you a source of water for large water changes that could help reduce the system's phosphate level.

 

[Skynyrd Fish]

What is your NO3? Start with your RO/DI water. It needs to be zero tds.

 

[Charterreefer]

I just bought a Hannah Phosphate checker and my numbers are reading 1.57. I ran GFO in my media reactor for about 4-5 months. I have no algae growth in my tank except for the algae that grows on the glass. I checked my RO water and its reading at a 2. I'm using Fritz salt. I have a Apex Fusion that my ORPs are reading at a 37. I'm losing my ACANS went from amazing to almost dead. My water tests are perfect. What should I do.

If your RO PO4 is high, chances are that your NO3 is high too. Do you have a TDS meter? Your DI water should have 0 TDS if your resin isn't exausted.

 

[rudyrizzo]

I think the first step is as lou dog suggests, have your water tested elsewhere (LFS, chemical test kit, friend's test kit, etc.) to verify that you're not getting an inaccurate reading. If you are noticing symptoms in your tank (acans turning south, etc.) it's possible that your water tests are correct.

I don't think it's normal that you should be getting anywhere near 2ppm of phosphate in your RODI output water. If you are, my opinion is that it's not worth it to try and fight that in the tank. I would either treat the RO water for phosphate before introducing into your tank or temporarily buy RO water from another source until you can get your unit to produce water with 0 (or nearly 0) phosphates.

Phosban says it works in freshwater, I'm not sure about GFO. If it does, it might make sense to make a big batch of RO water and run a GFO or Phosban reactor on that before using it in your tank, for now. This would at least give you a source of water for large water changes that could help reduce the system's phosphate level.

Just tested my RO water came in at 0 with the Hannah test. Don’t have any algae in my tank washed every vial I have really good nitrites are Perfect. I do 2 water changes a month. Just did one 2 weeks ago.

 

[rudyrizzo]

If your RO PO4 is high, chances are that your NO3 is high too. Do you have a TDS meter? Your DI water should have 0 TDS if your resin isn't exausted.

Tested my RO water with the Hannah test came in at 0

 

[rudyrizzo]

Tested my RO water with the Hannah test came in at 0

My TDS is reading at a 2 I always change it out at 3. I’ll replace my DI even though it’s not orange yet.

 

[lou dog420]

Changed it 2 times in that period

Only changing out your GFO twice in a 5 month period, chances are it was exhausted for a long time, especially if you had high phosphates to start with. GFO does not last that long, I would change it out atleast monthly.

 

[rudyrizzo]

Only changing out your GFO twice in a 5 month period, chances are it was exhausted for a long time, especially if you had high phosphates to start with. GFO does not last that long, I would change it out atleast monthly.

Thank you

 

[Charterreefer]

My TDS is reading at a 2 I always change it out at 3. I’ll replace my DI even though it’s not orange yet.

Your TDS should always read O. 1 is not good. Even with a reading of 1 your resin will be passing substantial amounts of PO4 and NO3. It needs to be zero. I use two canisters of DI resin. I always rotate the resin that is suspect of getting exhausted to the first canister and keep new resin in the last canister. That way I always have zero tds.

 

[Charterreefer]

Your goal is to eliminate any PO4 before it enters your system. Ultimately, you should try to stay away from using GFO at all if possible.

 

[five.five-six]

Something doen’t add up

As charterreefer said, and I know Randy disagrees, IMO GFO should be avoided.

You say you have no alage, do you have a large CUC? How is the coloration and health of your corals? Are they consuming much calcium. Carbonate and magnesium?

I’m suspecting some other contaminant is affecting your test results.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

You said in the original post that both the tank and the RO water were reading close to 2 (units are what??).

Then in a later post you said the RO/DI read 0.

Might the tank also read zero (or much lower) if you retested it?

 

[rudyrizzo]

You said in the original post that both the tank and the RO water were reading close to 2 (units are what??).

Then in a later post you said the RO/DI read 0.

Might the tank also read zero (or much lower) if you retested it?

My RO/DI water before mixing was reading 2 on my TDS meter then I checked it for phosphates which came in at 0.