HMS Mounting Arm - Need New Option

SilverCityReef

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So I purchased a Hydra 26 off a R2R member and bought the HMS Single Mounting Arm as well figuring at least I'd have that for now but it turns out they dont work on black rimmed aquariums. Any ideas? I was planning on switching to multi light mount anyways and I think that works with rimmed tanks but would like to know for sure so I can plan accordingly.

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Are you any good at DIY? Was thinking maybe you could toss a hole or two through and and mount it to the wall and hang the light that way?
 
You're thinking like a couple holes through the single arm bracket that I could then put some good size lags through and into the wall? That may work but at that point I may be better off building a custom piece that goes from stand up & across the tank and just mounting those plates into the cross piece giving me the ability to mount 2 lights with minimal extra pieces needed. I am just trying to find a clean looking way to go about it because it's in my living room
 
You're thinking like a couple holes through the single arm bracket that I could then put some good size lags through and into the wall? That may work but at that point I may be better off building a custom piece that goes from stand up & across the tank and just mounting those plates into the cross piece giving me the ability to mount 2 lights with minimal extra pieces needed. I am just trying to find a clean looking way to go about it because it's in my living room

I was thinking exactly that. I don't know how close to the wall the back of the tank is, but if it's pretty close you could possibly position it so that it looked natural.
 
I was thinking exactly that. I don't know how close to the wall the back of the tank is, but if it's pretty close you could possibly position it so that it looked natural.

I'll have to check and measure it out, I think back of tank of 4" off wall because I left room for plumbing to come out and run through stand to keep it clean.
 
If you can get a piece of plastic or acrylic to use as a spacer you can make them work easy. It's what I had to do on my 40B. What bugs me is they know this is an issue, but don't care enough to do anything about it other than say mounts are for rimless tanks only. :mad:
 
You could also possibly grind off the bottom arm that would normally go in the tank, touch it up, remove the screws and mount through those two holes. At that point though like you said, is it cheaper to do it with different materials and return that mounting arm.
 
If you can get a piece of plastic or acrylic to use as a spacer you can make them work easy. It's what I had to do on my 40B. What bugs me is they know this is an issue, but don't care enough to do anything about it other than say mounts are for rimless tanks only. :mad:

I'd like to see how you did this. Its freakin aggravating that they dont fix it. They say the multi-light kit works but I don't know how true that is.

You could also possibly grind off the bottom arm that would normally go in the tank, touch it up, remove the screws and mount through those two holes. At that point though like you said, is it cheaper to do it with different materials and return that mounting arm.

Unfortunately, I bought mount on here so returning it isn't an option, but I was only going to use it until I bought second light at which point I was planning to upgrade to an option that could mount both.
 
I used the handle from a DI resin cartridge wrench as a spacer on the inside and a piece of wood on the outside. It is really sturdy that way. This is on a frag/qt system in the basement so it isn't the prettiest. I'm sure you could find something to use as a spacer that will look nice.
 
A piece or two of cheap cutting board material may not look too terrible and might hide decent under the lip.
 
I used the handle from a DI resin cartridge wrench as a spacer on the inside and a piece of wood on the outside. It is really sturdy that way. This is on a frag/qt system in the basement so it isn't the prettiest. I'm sure you could find something to use as a spacer that will look nice.
A piece or two of cheap cutting board material may not look too terrible and might hide decent under the lip.

Okay so I'm not home and haven't had the chance to really see why it won't work but from what I'm getting from you guys is that I just need something between the clamp screws and the aquarium rim
 
Exactly, something that will mount both flush to the inside of the tank and provide the proper surface area to support the fixture, but also wide enough so that it brings the mount flush with the rim on the tank.
 
I used the handle from a DI resin cartridge wrench as a spacer on the inside and a piece of wood on the outside. It is really sturdy that way. This is on a frag/qt system in the basement so it isn't the prettiest. I'm sure you could find something to use as a spacer that will look nice.
If you can get a piece of plastic or acrylic to use as a spacer you can make them work easy. It's what I had to do on my 40B. What bugs me is they know this is an issue, but don't care enough to do anything about it other than say mounts are for rimless tanks only. :mad:

Any chance you guys would be willing to post a couple pics of what you did to make it work? It sounds like I can do something to make it work until I add another Hydra 26 and get the HMS Multi-Light Kit.
 
Exactly, something that will mount both flush to the inside of the tank and provide the proper surface area to support the fixture, but also wide enough so that it brings the mount flush with the rim on the tank.

I think I'm going to have some time in the morning to look at what's going on and try to see if I can make something work. Was also thinking about maybe buying a 36" bar and mounting that to back of stand and then I can also use it when I upgrade to the multi-light. I don't know. Hate to think I wasted money buying this mount but just need an option until I add another light. I appreciate your ideas. I'm sure between everything you and other members have mentioned so far, something should work.
 
Ok, now I get what's going on, the lack of something in between is causing my mount to tip forward. By adding a piece on inside, it will balance out.

Yes just make sure you have enough material to cover the ENTIRE front piece to eliminate the risk of tipping. The entire flat piece on the front of you mount that will be "in" the tank should be touching the plastic as this is how that mount was designed to work.
 
Yes just make sure you have enough material to cover the ENTIRE front piece to eliminate the risk of tipping. The entire flat piece on the front of you mount that will be "in" the tank should be touching the plastic as this is how that mount was designed to work.

Got it. I will see what I have laying around to use. It just needs to be the width of the inner lip on tank correct? What a joke though. You would think AI would just fix their stupid mount to work on all applications.
 
Got it. I will see what I have laying around to use. It just needs to be the width of the inner lip on tank correct? What a joke though. You would think AI would just fix their stupid mount to work on all applications.

Exactly. Width of the brace lip, footprint of the brace after overhang.

Also don't get too caught up in making it PERFECT. 1/8th of an inch too much in width is fine, you just don't want to be not enough and cause the mount to have to rock forward over the brace to touch it.

If that is an area that stays dry, maybe a piece off of a cheap plastic or wooden cutting board would be where I would start. Stick with the plastic though if it will be wet.
 

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