HOB fuge just exploded

[lucas-grimm]

So you would have a bunch of pumps running dry? or do they all return back to the hob?

this would completely eliminate a hob at all. it would literally just be the pumps inside the display, with the return lines to the display, just being covered by one of these.

 

[lucas-grimm]

I feel like your working awfully hard to not get a sump, when I sump would make your tank a lot simpler and easier to maintain

definitely. a sump would be too difficult to add right now since the tank has been up and running and i honestly just don’t trust hob overflows. that said, i have no idea how to add an overflow drain. i also don’t want to spend a crazy amount on a return pump since the entire system would rely on it.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Ultimately, sump would be the way to go and be supportive of all components and allow you to incorporate a refugium or cheato area.

 

[lucas-grimm]

Ultimately, sump would be the way to go and be supportive of all components and allow you to incorporate a refugium or cheato area.

a vectra m2 would run about $450… but again, hob overflows are unreliable and there’s no way i’m drilling the tank at this point

 

[vetteguy53081]

a vectra m2 would run about $450… but again, hob overflows are unreliable and there’s no way i’m drilling the tank at this point

vectra 2 was an example. Sicce is a great low cost pump

 

[fishguy242]

eshopps hob overflow ,tank and a jebao dcp pump,
quick "affordable " option for meantime.
get your vectra at a later date.

 

[Ef4life]

definitely. a sump would be too difficult to add right now since the tank has been up and running and i honestly just don’t trust hob overflows. that said, i have no idea how to add an overflow drain. i also don’t want to spend a crazy amount on a return pump since the entire system would rely on it.

Sumps don’t have to be glass boxes, just anything reef safe that will hold enough water to not overflow in a power outage. A simple small brute trash can or stock tank would most likely fit under your tank or at least next to in on the ground, plumbing in the drains would be that hardest thing as drilling a set up tank would be difficult and potentially disastrous, but it’s not impossible. Make sure it’s not tempered glass. And glass dust and diamond is inert so getting a tad into the tank water is really a non issue. I never used a hob overflow, so no real advice there.

The return pump id go with a Jebao and buy a second as a backup to put on the shelf, or to swap out at regular maintenance intervals for a clean pump (that’s my dream to have an extra of everything on the shelf to just swap out dirty stuff, and clean at my leisure)

 

[lucas-grimm]

vectra 2 was an example. Sicce is a great low cost pump

sicces have always been incredibly reliable. question, why do sicces have an intake barb fitting provided, when they don’t operate externally? (i tried with both the 4.0 and 5.0)

 

[lucas-grimm]

Sumps don’t have to be glass boxes, just anything reef safe that will hold enough water to not overflow in a power outage. A simple small brute trash can or stock tank would most likely fit under your tank or at least next to in on the ground, plumbing in the drains would be that hardest thing as drilling a set up tank would be difficult and potentially disastrous, but it’s not impossible. Make sure it’s not tempered glass. And glass dust and diamond is inert so getting a tad into the tank water is really a non issue. I never used a hob overflow, so no real advice there.

The return pump id go with a Jebao and buy a second as a backup to put on the shelf, or to swap out at regular maintenance intervals for a clean pump (that’s my dream to have an extra of everything on the shelf to just swap out dirty stuff, and clean at my leisure)

i have extras of a lot of stuff for maintenance haha. (uv bulbs, ro filters, medias etc) but i don’t want to always be on my toes waiting for a pump to fail so i can replace it, and would rather just go for a higher end pump. that said, as many benefits as a sump would provide, the hassle of getting one is just through the roof.

 

[Ef4life]

i have extras of a lot of stuff for maintenance haha. (uv bulbs, ro filters, medias etc) but i don’t want to always be on my toes waiting for a pump to fail so i can replace it, and would rather just go for a higher end pump. that said, as many benefits as a sump would provide, the hassle of getting one is just through the roof.

I feel ya, you know your system better than anyone, so do it how you want, a sump is a major change and difficult to implement. If I were you and a sump is a no go, I’d get a custom refugium built, but not have it hanging on the tank. I would build a nice stand for it to have it mounted at the proper height.

heck you don’t even need custom, again a brute trash can and a few uniseals your under $75 bucks. A few 2x4s to build a stand might backrupt you though

 

[Projects with Sam]

I ran King of DIY overflows that went down the full depth of the tank. They never lost siphon in 4 years of operating 2 of them (4 for 2 of those years). They were very reliable. Then I used an overflow that took up way less real estate but was dependent on an Aqualifter pump.
I'd try to go sump - it seems like a work-tank so having a sump will tidy up a lot of your gear too.

 

[lucas-grimm]

accidentally responded twice..

 

[lucas-grimm]

I ran King of DIY overflows that went down the full depth of the tank. They never lost siphon in 4 years of operating 2 of them (4 for 2 of those years). They were very reliable. Then I used an overflow that took up way less real estate but was dependent on an Aqualifter pump.
I'd try to go sump - it seems like a work-tank so having a sump will tidy up a lot of your gear too.

definitely going either this route so i can build a larger fuge (like 10 gal max just for space) or the pumps and everything in the display and find a way to hide it, if i go with those internal overflow boxes just kind of sitting in the tank, i’ll be able to hide my heater, probes, etc. + there’s no risk of anything overflowing.

 

[Projects with Sam]

I'd be nervous about hanging too much weight off any one glass panel. I've heard stories of 10gallon tanks with huge HOB fuges pulling the side off. Doubtful that'd happen in a larger tank (tank:fuge ratio is different) but who knows.

 

[lucas-grimm]

I'd be nervous about hanging too much weight off any one glass panel. I've heard stories of 10gallon tanks with huge HOB fuges pulling the side off. Doubtful that'd happen in a larger tank (tank:fuge ratio is different) but who knows.

if i went with another external fuge it will not be attached to the tank itself. but on a separate stand or shelf.

 

[Tamberav]

definitely. a sump would be too difficult to add right now since the tank has been up and running and i honestly just don’t trust hob overflows. that said, i have no idea how to add an overflow drain. i also don’t want to spend a crazy amount on a return pump since the entire system would rely on it.

They make some super reliable hob overflows that are way more trusting then those hob fuges. Life reef hob overflow is the one you want.

I have a Eheim 1262 that has been in operation continuously for 7 years and I bought it used. They make some super quality return pumps. If money is a concern… used is fine.

I think stuff like this is way more reliable then hob boxes and multiple pumps.

It will also make maintenance easier and keep everything clean.

Just have to purchase from the companies that are known for longevity and “it just works”.

 

[Tamberav]

Also you can totally mitigate damage with a HOB overflow fairly easily. To the point that the livestock will be fine and you might have a little water on the floor.

Have the return section of your sump small... so it fits a return pump and not much more. Then it can only pull so much water before it runs out as it only pulls from this section.

Make the ATO reservoir also smaller sized and/or even better... get a very reliable ATO that has several built in features. For example, the Tunze ATO will alarm and stop trying to top off if it runs for 10 min. So it won't keep going and just empty your ATO reservoir.

So basically even if your super reliable overflow lost siphon... it can only pull so much water and the problem isn't a huge problem.

If you have a controller then you can do even more fancy crap with float switches.

You don't have to try as hard as you are to mitigate damage.

 

[lucas-grimm]

Also you can totally mitigate damage with a HOB overflow fairly easily. To the point that the livestock will be fine and you might have a little water on the floor.

Have the return section of your sump small... so it fits a return pump and not much more. Then it can only pull so much water before it runs out as it only pulls from this section.

Make the ATO reservoir also smaller sized and/or even better... get a very reliable ATO that has several built in features. For example, the Tunze ATO will alarm and stop trying to top off if it runs for 10 min. So it won't keep going and just empty your ATO reservoir.

So basically even if your super reliable overflow lost siphon... it can only pull so much water and the problem isn't a huge problem.

If you have a controller then you can do even more fancy crap with float switches.

You don't have to try as hard as you are to mitigate damage.

i have an ato from amazon that was <$100. it’s been a year and it’s the most surprising great purchase i’ve made. it shuts off after 3 min of running, has a float valve for shut off it it runs too long, and then i clean the water level sensor every few weeks.

 

[Tamberav]

i have an ato from amazon that was <$100. it’s been a year and it’s the most surprising great purchase i’ve made. it shuts off after 3 min of running, has a float valve for shut off it it runs too long, and then i clean the water level sensor every few weeks.

well there you go... just make the return chamber small and you can't spill but maybe a small amount of water and maybe not even that even if the overflow failed

 

[lucas-grimm]

Update: I’m going with another external “fuge”. I’m plumbing it myself. It’s a 5 Gal aqueon tank that will be ran by a sicce 5.0 in the tank, covered by a false overflow box. i’m drilling a 3inch hole for a 2inch bulkhead and will plumb it back into the display. (all of this sits about 5 inches above the tank on a sturdy shelving system). the 5.0 is about 1300 gph, so the tank will receive a little more flow, however i don’t mind. As for my equipment (skimmer, uv, and carbon reactor) it will be powered by by their respective pumps and then plumber back INTO the 5 gal fuge. Net water loss and gain will be zero, and clean sterilized water will flow back into the tank at a flow rate im happy with. the skimmer will still get 950 from its own pump, and the uv will still get 1100 or so, and the rest will just be unused water. Essentially here i am creating a closed loop for flow, with a stop in the middle for the tank.