How did you mount your Rodi in garage?

Can ya post a pic? I may do a stand and let gravity due the work lol. I got a 18g brute but wouldn't mind somethin with a smaller footprint.

We got a couple of 48 gallon half moon water-tanks. They're made for strapping onto a pickup to take water to cattle or put on horse trailers. They work upright, too, though and have straps to anchor them to the wall, since they get kind of tippy. They are good quality, food grade tanks, clear plastic so you can see water level easily and come with spigots. The tank footprint is 63.5"long/tall X 18"wide X 12" deep (half-round). They are a little spendy at around $110/each, but what is the real estate in your garage/house/closet worth?
 
I mounted mine in the garage and screwed it directly in to the Concrete Block Construction.

Good thing I did some times those things are pretty hard to release to replace the cartridges.

Ran water from a spigot out side the garage to the unit and then ran the waster water into the garden next to the garage so it is watering the plants.
 
I built a little work bench with a tall back stop that I mounted my RO/DI unit to. The bench top is the same height as the laundry sink so I can have a drain board for drying equipment.

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I may try some 1 1/2" screws, I was getting a Ac current reading so wanted to be careful. It's seems secure as I tugged on the board. I got 1 1/4" screws now. It's on 1/2" ply thru drywall into the stud. Should I try 1 1/2?
 
If it is going thru the bracket, plywood and drywall you don't have much screw left gripping the studs at 1.25".

Why not mount it to the tailgate, it could be portable that way! Couldn't help myself.....
 
I'm gunna go with 1 1/2" screws and maybe slap a coat of primer on the ply. Then I can finish setting up this weekend. Maybe I'll trim the board down since it's 10" tall....
 
You ought to lift my MaxCap UHE-100. With the dual DI, Aquatec booster pump, solenoid valves, microprocessor and upgraded power supply it is really heavy. I needed help to hold it up and mark the holes!
 
Lol I marked my holes before I mounted the wood! You went straight into studs though sooo haha.

I feel like it's a lil high at about 6' (ok I'm short) I can reach it just not see the top lol. , the only thing I need to reach on occasion only is the black valve on top right?
 
If the flush kit makes you feel good then yes that is all you need regular access to. Personally I think they are a waste of time and money and do nothing other than give you a warm fuzzy feeling so never recommend them except in rare cases where the user has softened water and lower than normal TDS and wants to reduce their waste ratio from the recommended 4:1 down to 3:1 or 2:1 where it may do some good although not proven or documented to do so.

If you want to add some proven value add a DI bypass valve and flush the initial TDS creep water to waste each time before making a batch of RO/DI tpo extend your DI life, that does something.
 
Is the flush kit open or closed? If it is open your pressure is going out the waste lne.
The dual inline TDS meters should be installed so the IN probe is reading the RO only water and the OUT probe is reading the final RO/DI line. If your TDS is 332 something isn't right.
I do not recommend inline meters for several reasons, one is they lack low range accuracy since they are not truly temperature compensated and another is you need 3 TDS readings for a 4 stage RO/DI system, tap water, RO only and RO/DI. You are missing one of the three. A $25 handheld is much more versatile and accurate. Check the placement and the orientation of the probes and make sure they are fully inserted in the tee's.
The pressure gauge may be threaded in too far, try backing it out a quarter turn at a time. The hole in the end ccould be seated in the housing preventing water from entering the sensing tube, it may also have teflon tape wrapped around the end.
 
I tap it and it jumped up to 55 lol. Seems like it's sticking. Also instructions state the yellow and green connector off the Y connector, but I have yellow/red? I will get a handheld like you recommended before too.
 
You can get the three necessary TDS readings with a little work. As I mentioned before, the normal way a dual inline is hooked up is to measure the RO only TDS with the IN and the final RO/DI TDS with the OUT. If you have a short piece of extra 1/4" tubing laying around you can move the tee containing the IN probe or the one with the OUT probe, whichever is easier to get at, to the incoming tap water side by disconnecting the 1/4" line from the sediment filter and inserting a short piece of tubing, the tee and probe and the existing 1/4" line back to that for a few minutes to record the tap water TDS. Then move it back to the original location and run enough treated water to rinse the probe well.

What are the three TDS readings?

The next thing you need to check is the exact measured waste ratio to ensure the membrane is being flushed when in use. Use a measuring cup and clock or watch and time the waste flow for exactly one minute then do the same for the the treated flow. how many m/L or ounces was each? Should be approximately 4:1 waste to treated, if not you might want to get a capillary tube flow restrictor and trim it to fit your exact water conditions, restrictors are not really one size fits all as some vendors make you believe.
 
I know this unit has a 2.1 ratio or 3.1. I emailed spectrapure to see what's installed.

TDS last night with DI removed for an hour was

Black line 280
Line 2. 04
line 3 I wanna say. 2ish

It never said err so I'm assuming all are hooked up.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

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  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

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