How do I drill a hole in my house?

[New&no clue]

If it’s 3/8 tubing you’re targeting forget the John guest and do a barbed fitting.

You could get a Barb x NPT

Instead of drilling the cap, get threaded bushings down to the size needed. It will probably take a couple as I don’t believe there is a 4” x 3/8” available but I think a 4x2 and then 2x3/8 could get it done.

I can look up the specific pieces later if you’d like.

I actually had planned to reduce down to an RO line. Several reviews of the AWC had said they did to fix an issues

 

[New&no clue]

I can look up the specific pieces later if you’d like.

I'm going to re-watch the youtube videos to see what issues they were trying to solve by reducing to 1/4".

BUT YES!!! Tell me what to buy... please.

Instead of drilling the cap, are you saying to remove the cap and screw in a 4x2 and then screw in a 2x3/8 and then connect the 3/8 tubing?

What is this stuff on the cap? Is it some sort of glue, and can the cap be easily unscrewed?

 

[Beau_B]

Yes, put the cap on a shelf and use bushings of some combination.

The crap is a thread sealant aka goop. Shouldn’t pose a threat to your operations.

 

[Beau_B]

I can never find anything I want on the HD or Lowe’s sites, but they probably have the parts if you go in, or some variation. This is from SupplyHouse.

Anyway, the 4” male threads in where the cap was. The 4x1 glues into that, and the 1x1/2 glues into that… then thread the barb fitting in.

The whole chunk could still be unthreaded if the clean out is needed (or you move) it just requires a large set of pliers to grip the outside of the 4”.

There are other combinations that work, this just happens to be the cost effective and available combo I pulled up on my lunch!

If you want to do a different size hose, obviously that can be done. I’m also assuming you have a 4” main. It could be 3” but it does appear to be 4.

 

[Pistondog]

I get what everyone is saying about the sump pump, but I have two reasons I'm worried about dumping saltwater down it, especially after what some other people have said.

1. If the saltwater somehow messes with the pump or float switch, my basement will flood. Been there, done that, bought a t-shirt

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2. The water from the sump pump goes out to my yard down by the road. Not that I have the nicest yard, but I don't want the grass to die in that area, and right near there is my favorite pink flowering crabapple tree (which is one of the reasons I bought this house). If that tree died from the salt in the soil, I'd be so sad.

Drilling through the wall, while at first seemed like a fine idea, the lovely comments here have brought the realization that Maine is cold, and even if the water doesn't freeze in the line, it will freeze in a puddle where it falls. And trying to get it far enough away from the foundation will create all new problems.

Drilling into the sewer line did not sound like a great idea to me either, because obviously if that goes wrong... Ewww. However, I like the idea of the cap because it is replaceable, and it seems relatively easy for a novice plumber such as myself; drill a hole, stick a fitting in the hole, and connect the drain line.

Although now I wonder how do I reduce the 3/8" tubing that comes with the AWC to 1/4" RO tubing?

Also, is it really that simple that I drill a 1/4" hole and stick in the 1/4" John Guest fitting? Do I need some sort of sealant or PVC cement as well?

I thought you mentioned earlier in the thread the sump pump connected to the sewer line. You don't want saltwater in the yard if it doesnt.
You said it'd be nice to have a utility sink nearby, maybe bite the bullet and have a plumber come in to install the sink, which will require a pump up connection to sewer line. Have him add the awc drain.
Diy into a sewer line below grade is asking for not just water in the basement. You'll get another t shirt when the sewer line going to the street clogs from tree roots or other.

 

[New&no clue]

I thought you mentioned earlier in the thread the sump pump connected to the sewer line. You don't want saltwater in the yard if it doesnt.
You said it'd be nice to have a utility sink nearby, maybe bite the bullet and have a plumber come in to install the sink, which will require a pump up connection to sewer line. Have him add the awc drain.
Diy into a sewer line below grade is asking for not just water in the basement. You'll get another t shirt when the sewer line going to the street clogs from tree roots or other.

I thought it did, I only remember one pipe out of the basement. But then when taking pictures I saw two. I have no room for a utility sink in my current fish room. It would be after a renovation of the basement, not in the plans anytime soon.

I am confused by your concern of the sewer line being blocked by roots. How does adding a DIY change the outcome?

 

[fishguy242]

the saltwater will actually help keep roots in check in sewer drain ,as it will kill them.

approx how old is your house ?

 

[chadfish]

Do not drill a hole in the side of your house and do not try running a water line outside - especially if you live in Maine. Have a handyman come over and talk it over with him/her.

 

[New&no clue]

the saltwater will actually help keep roots in check in sewer drain ,as it will kill them.

approx how old is your house ?

28 years, it was built in 1994

Do not drill a hole in the side of your house and do not try running a water line outside - especially if you live in Maine. Have a handyman come over and talk it over with him/her.

You're no fun

 

[Beau_B]

DIY plumbing is fine. It’s even legal - yes I said it - here in Maine for your own residence.

Plumbing code is focused on ensuring waste water gets out of the building and gas doesn’t enter.

Having a hose barb connection below grade doesn’t increase the likelihood of flood. In the event of a back up the wastewater will seek the lowest point of exit. In many homes that is a basement washing machine stack. In others it’s a first floor tub, or toilet.

Any back up will be a problem. It’s hard for me to envision a sewer failure that is compounded significantly by a 3/8 closed system. Will it leak? Maybe. Will it need inspection if there are sewer issues? Absolutely. Is there the possibility of wastewater infiltrating the reef? Depends on the setup, but as I see it, it would need to reverse flow through the AWC pump and that is a little far fetched.

Licensed plumbers are great, and I’ve mentioned a few times that some of what is proposed is not legal, but the code doesn’t address every situation. A plumber doesn’t have a magic wand that will prevent sewer failures. However, a modern PVC waste line, while not impervious, rarely if ever gets damaged by roots. If it the line main fails for any reason, I will still argue that 3/8 line on the clean out will not be a contributing factor.

YMMV.

EDIT: flushable wipes are the worst thing to happen to modern plumbing. Just don’t. DON’T.

 

[New&no clue]

EDIT: flushable wipes are the worst thing to happen to modern plumbing. Just don’t. DON’T.

Why?

 

[Beau_B]

They are the worst. They aren’t really flushable. If it’s a long run and there’s a low flow toilet (1.6 or 1.28) as most have, they will stack up as the water out runs them. Then they have little gatherings together and create giant masses in the line. Unlike standard bath tissue they don’t break down, in fact the construction is quite strong such that cutting and tearing are difficult. Rank them worse than paper towels and tissue (which are also no-go for flushing).

My plumber has noted an increase in blockages as a result. Roto-rooter business is booming. One story involving a nursing home and an 8” line packed some 20+ ft.

Don’t believe the marketing. Don’t put them down your system.

 

[Pistondog]

I thought it did, I only remember one pipe out of the basement. But then when taking pictures I saw two. I have no room for a utility sink in my current fish room. It would be after a renovation of the basement, not in the plans anytime soon.

I am confused by your concern of the sewer line being blocked by roots. How does adding a DIY change the outcome?

A pump up system would/should have a check valve designed to help prevent backflow to the basement. If your diy plans include this then good.

 

[Double monti 61]

Hi you can drill holes through concrete,wood and steel you just need the right equipment but I agree drilling a hole in a bay( between floor joists) makes perfect sense and it is much easier than going through concrete in most cases.

 

[New&no clue]

I can never find anything I want on the HD or Lowe’s sites, but they probably have the parts if you go in, or some variation. This is from SupplyHouse.

Anyway, the 4” male threads in where the cap was. The 4x1 glues into that, and the 1x1/2 glues into that… then thread the barb fitting in.

The whole chunk could still be unthreaded if the clean out is needed (or you move) it just requires a large set of pliers to grip the outside of the 4”.

There are other combinations that work, this just happens to be the cost effective and available combo I pulled up on my lunch!

If you want to do a different size hose, obviously that can be done. I’m also assuming you have a 4” main. It could be 3” but it does appear to be 4.

Okay, I have all the fittings ordered, the AWC, and extra 3/8" tubing as it only comes with 19', and I might need more.

BUT... what about some sealant? Do I need something for the 4" thread side and the 1/2" thread side? Also, the "goop" that is already there. Do I need to clean that out to get a good seal with the new fitting?

 

[Beau_B]

Pipe dope, aka thread sealant, aka teflon paste, aka...

It's what *should* be used on PVC threads rather than teflon tape, as it doesn't add pressure to the joint.

I like the blue stuff that has the knight on it, but there are many brands. No need to aggressively clean the old off, a quick wipe with a rag will do.

 

[New&no clue]

Pipe dope, aka thread sealant, aka teflon paste, aka...

It's what *should* be used on PVC threads rather than teflon tape, as it doesn't add pressure to the joint.

I like the blue stuff that has the knight on it, but there are many brands. No need to aggressively clean the old off, a quick wipe with a rag will do.

Lowes has the blue knight, is that non-permeant? Just incase I need to remove someday?

 

[Beau_B]

Yeah, it’s a paste not glue, doesn’t set.

 

[New&no clue]

We’re up and running

 

[fishguy242]

100 posts n good to go...