How do I drill a hole in my house?

[Eagle_Steve]

1. Stop telling me it's not legal you are ruining my case for plausible deniability.

2. I like that drilling into the cap would not be permanent. Not that I would ever stop reefing, but if I sold the house one day this is something that could be replaced beforehand. Also if I screw it up I can replace the cap and try again.

My question is will the water from the house flow back through the cap and into the RO drain line?

If you drilled into the cap, there would have to be a clog below it for it to back flow. You also have protection from back flow due to the dosing pumps being a stop point when they are resting.

I would still do a "loop" right at the cap to prevent the chance of gas getting beyond the loop.

If you wanted to get really creative, you could use some push connect fittings and make a "ring trap".

You may even be able to install a small check valve inline. One with a spring may end up rusting, but there are others that are just plastic balls. Those need to be installed, so the ball rests on the input side of the valve (from your sump side) and should be placed to where that is downwards in the run. This would mean that an up/down run for the line would need to be made, but could be done right at the cap and in an up down section of the loop you make. This would prevent gas or back flow of liquid also.

 

[New&no clue]

If you drilled into the cap, there would have to be a clog below it for it to back flow. You also have protection from back flow due to the dosing pumps being a stop point when they are resting.

I would still do a "loop" right at the cap to prevent the chance of gas getting beyond the loop.

If you wanted to get really creative, you could use some push connect fittings and make a "ring trap".

You may even be able to install a small check valve inline. One with a spring may end up rusting, but there are others that are just plastic balls. Those need to be installed, so the ball rests on the input side of the valve (from your sump side) and should be placed to where that is downwards in the run. This would mean that an up/down run for the line would need to be made, but could be done right at the cap and in an up down section of the loop you make. This would prevent gas or back flow of liquid also.

Is the loop inside or outside the PVC pipe?

I saw this cute little check valve at Home Depot

John Guest 1/4 in. Polypropylene Push-to-Connect Check Valve (10-Pack) 1/4SCV-US - The Home Depot

The John Guest 1/4 in. Push-to-Connect Check Valve (10-Pack) valves are manufactured from white polypropylene and equipped with EPDM O-rings utilizing John Guest's push-fit technology to make easy, reliable,

www.homedepot.com

 

[New&no clue]

Everytime I read an explanation.

I'm sure this is how my husband feels when I talk about Taxes and Accounting. When anyone starts talking about plumbing or electrical, I start to google all the words.

 

[Stang67]

is your clothes washing machine in the basement? where does it drain to?
nevermind i went back and read more. i like the illegal option personally.

 

[New&no clue]

is your clothes washing machine in the basement? where does it drain to?
nevermind i went back and read more. i like the illegal option personally.

No, the stupid thing is upstairs on the first floor. Some day I would like to expand my fish room and put in a utility sink... then all my problems go away.

 

[fishguy242]

loop would be outside ,right at cap.

 

[bruno3047]

Drill through the rim board aka rim joist. That’s the flakeboard that runs horizontally and sits on top of the top plate. The rim board is always above grade and the hole will pop through on the other side through whatever exterior covering is on the house. If it’s brick or stucco, then you’re going to need a masonry bit. If it’s just siding, take it slow so you don’t damage more of it than you need to. If the space around your tubing is less than 3/8 of an inch, you can use caulk, if more, expanding foam will do the trick. Standard material for going through the wall is Schedule 40 PVC.

 

[Beau_B]

1. Stop telling me it's not legal you are ruining my case for plausible deniability.

2. I like that drilling into the cap would not be permanent. Not that I would ever stop reefing, but if I sold the house one day this is something that could be replaced beforehand. Also if I screw it up I can replace the cap and try again.

My question is will the water from the house flow back through the cap and into the RO drain line?

Water doesn't have a habit of flowing up hill, but if the sewer main were blocked... yes. This is where "air-gap" standpipes come into play, such as you see for a washing machine. Some codes require them on things like dishwashers so that grey water from the sink can't back flow into the appliance... Maine is not one of those places.

 

[Beau_B]

No, the stupid thing is upstairs on the first floor. Some day I would like to expand my fish room and put in a utility sink... then all my problems go away.

Ha... so... about that. I allegedly have one that uses a 5g bucket as a sump and pumps it into the main drain. You have a situation that would allow a similar stunt. I won't tell you the thing about the thing and the stuff, but it theoretically works.

 

[bruno3047]

Regarding the question on if salt water would damage a sump pump. You can buy a bilge pump, which is made to drain boats of water that accumulates in the bilge (the lower areas of the boat inside the hull). These are made for salt water. Something like this might work.

 

[Pistondog]

Readily available on Amazon if replacement is necessary. Stainless steel shaft and plastic impeller. I'd drain to sump, easiest path.

 

[WVNed]

I would put the water into the sump hole long before I would make holes in that sewer line that far below grade unless you live on the top of a hill.
I would also find out about common practice where you live like where a basement sump is usually drained to.
There appears to be some nice waterproof construction in your basement. Why is it needed? Consider this before you make holes in it. it.

There is a reason they are lifting water with a pump to get it out of the basement. What is it?

 

[New&no clue]

I get what everyone is saying about the sump pump, but I have two reasons I'm worried about dumping saltwater down it, especially after what some other people have said.

1. If the saltwater somehow messes with the pump or float switch, my basement will flood. Been there, done that, bought a t-shirt

- YouTube

Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.

www.youtube.com

2. The water from the sump pump goes out to my yard down by the road. Not that I have the nicest yard, but I don't want the grass to die in that area, and right near there is my favorite pink flowering crabapple tree (which is one of the reasons I bought this house). If that tree died from the salt in the soil, I'd be so sad.

Drilling through the wall, while at first seemed like a fine idea, the lovely comments here have brought the realization that Maine is cold, and even if the water doesn't freeze in the line, it will freeze in a puddle where it falls. And trying to get it far enough away from the foundation will create all new problems.

Drilling into the sewer line did not sound like a great idea to me either, because obviously if that goes wrong... Ewww. However, I like the idea of the cap because it is replaceable, and it seems relatively easy for a novice plumber such as myself; drill a hole, stick a fitting in the hole, and connect the drain line.

Although now I wonder how do I reduce the 3/8" tubing that comes with the AWC to 1/4" RO tubing?

Also, is it really that simple that I drill a 1/4" hole and stick in the 1/4" John Guest fitting? Do I need some sort of sealant or PVC cement as well?

 

[fishguy242]

wow ,i'd say you flooded once...

yes drilling into cap will not be hard,
need a bit slightly smaller than threads on pvc JG fitting,
drill close to square on cap.
pick up a brass or steel fitting that has same thread and size of pvc JG fitting ,just to tap "thread" hole
then teflon tape or thread sealer on JG fitting ,and install.
use a barb fitting 3/8" to 1/4 " to attach AWC.
DON'T forget to leave about a foot height drip loop above cap.

PS: pick up extra cap while you are there...

 

[LeftyReefer]

do you have septic system or city sewer service?

 

[New&no clue]

do you have septic system or city sewer service?

City water/sewer

 

[New&no clue]

wow ,i'd say you flooded once...

yes drilling into cap will not be hard,
need a bit slightly smaller than threads on pvc JG fitting,
drill close to square on cap.
pick up a brass or steel fitting that has same thread and size of pvc JG fitting ,just to tap "thread" hole
then teflon tape or thread sealer on JG fitting ,and install.
use a barb fitting 3/8" to 1/4 " to attach AWC.
DON'T forget to leave about a foot height drip loop above cap.

PS: pick up extra cap while you are there...

Will a barb fitting work with RO line, I was wondering if a push connect would be better, but I wasn't sure how to get from a flexible 3/8 tube to the more ridged 1/4" RO tube.

 

[fishguy242]

Will a barb fitting work with RO line, I was wondering if a push connect would be better, but I wasn't sure how to get from a flexible 3/8 tube to the more ridged 1/4" RO tube.

yes, zip ties to hold secure.

 

[Beau_B]

If it’s 3/8 tubing you’re targeting forget the John guest and do a barbed fitting.

You could get a Barb x NPT

Instead of drilling the cap, get threaded bushings down to the size needed. It will probably take a couple as I don’t believe there is a 4” x 3/8” available but I think a 4x2 and then 2x3/8 could get it done.

I can look up the specific pieces later if you’d like.

 

[fishguy242]

If it’s 3/8 tubing you’re targeting forget the John guest and do a barbed fitting.

You could get a Barb x NPT

Instead of drilling the cap, get threaded bushings down to the size needed. It will probably take a couple as I don’t believe there is a 4” x 3/8” available but I think a 4x2 and then 2x3/8 could get it done.

I can look up the specific pieces later if you’d like.

BINGO...80 posts and done !!!
still have cap...
no drilling /sizing...
plenty of hose for gas loop.
Done in 15 min...

"check valve optional"...