How do you have your wavemakers positioned and programmed?

i_declare_bankruptcy

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I just purchased two Jebao OW-25 for my 525XL. They have the ability to pair so there's a master/slave setup.

Right now I have both positioned on either side of the tank facing each other (your typical setup). They take turns turning on and off for something like 10-15 seconds at a time. Unfortunately you can't program in "rest" time (i.e., both pumps off for x seconds).

I'm not really seeing the swaying back and forth effect at all. The water is just turbulent (which is still better than the constant flow from my old powerheads). So the corals end up moving around in all directions which I've read is better for them but I'm not getting that sort of swaying motion that I'd like to see.

I get it, it's a small space and so there's probably a lot of reflections happening inside the tank, thus causing constructive/destructive interference and messing up the smooth swaying motion. Doesn't help that powerheads have a narrow flow pattern. Kind of like how the LED shimmer is high frequency because there are so many waves on the surface reflecting off the confines of the tank walls (I've been trying to figure out if it's possible to get ocean-like shimmer lol).

All taht said, does anyone have tips or tricks to help get a more natural swaying look? Bonus points if you have the Jebao pumps.
 
I have jebao wavemakers and found it was too much wave in my 50 gallon cube. I set mine up similar, put them relatively high on the glass and relatively quick intervals to ensure the wave started, but it built up so crazy I had to change the flow to prevent splashing. They are now on the back of the tank, almost at the bottom angled upward at 45, and they churn up detritus pretty well with my “special grade” sand.
 
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I no longer pursue the “in tank wave”, however my flow is still acceptable and does sway a bit. One is set to wave pattern and a surge set up on the other. They are intentionally set to different intervals so it allows them to be out of sync in such a way to provide random flow.
 
I don't get the bonus points :( but I have a pair of MP10's on the back wall facing forward, and if I put them on short pulse mode I can get that natural swaying look. But because of my SPS corals, I have them in reef crest mode at 100%
 
I don't get the bonus points :( but I have a pair of MP10's on the back wall facing forward, and if I put them on short pulse mode I can get that natural swaying look. But because of my SPS corals, I have them in reef crest mode at 100%
I no longer pursue the “in tank wave”, however my flow is still acceptable and does sway a bit. One is set to wave pattern and a surge set up on the other. They are intentionally set to different intervals so it allows them to be out of sync in such a way to provide random flow.

Thanks guys. Sounds like I need to keep messing around with them to figure it out. I'd definitely much rather mount them on the back for looks!
 
To get a real 'back and forth' wave motion with my Tunze 6055s the pulse was like 1-2 seconds. It looked cool but all that water moving back and forth made me nervous for the stresses on the tank.
Instead I have them ramp up and back down in opposition - simulating tidal flow throughout a 24 hour period.
 
I agree w1 will get you the best wave, but I prefer w2. I used to use else mode but I think there is something wrong with their random mode because it ends up being very laminar and significantly less flow than either w1 or w2.

When I was trying to dial in a large wave on my tank (for fun), there was only 1 notch where it would produce the wave. In other words, you need to move the dial 1 notch at a time and wait 30 seconds to see how the tank reacts. It takes forever...
 
Lately I’ve been keeping mine on the “C” mode (non synced) at just above the shortest interval which alternates really quick side to side giving it that more “slow sway” as opposed to the bobble head thing that happens in W1 mode which I’ve come to dislike. I really Love else mode more than anything but I just can’t dial that up in my current display without being too much for certain corals. Really which Jebao would have made else mode work with the power setting so it wouldn’t reach full blast, seems obvious.
 
Lately I’ve been keeping mine on the “C” mode (non synced) at just above the shortest interval which alternates really quick side to side giving it that more “slow sway” as opposed to the bobble head thing that happens in W1 mode which I’ve come to dislike. I really Love else mode more than anything but I just can’t dial that up in my current display without being too much for certain corals. Really which Jebao would have made else mode work with the power setting so it wouldn’t reach full blast, seems obvious.

Whats Tyler of Jebao do you have? In mi thank i have 2 sw8 in wave mode master/ slave.
 
Hi guys, I have a pair of OW-25 in a 75G since March this year, and I am very satisfied with them, although it is very strong for the corals torches and frogs. I put two in the back of the tank, forward, button turned to low speed, around 20%, and as I was told, in W2 mode, to prevent premature wear. If you put in W1, for some previous models, the intermittent stop and go can cause a short time failure. At W2, the impeller never stops completely and seems to be much better and longer lasting. The movement of water is now like the ocean of waves.
I have a question, is it possible to turn them off from the control panel? I know there is the food model for a long time by pressing the botton but it is for only 10 minutes, and sometimes I would like to have more ...
 
If you can find a used JB wave controller for the Jebao wave pumps it opens up a different world of control for these wave pumps. Way more control. Unfortunately they are not made anymore.

I run two RW 15's on opposing sides of my tank. I have them running on a alternating wave pattern at 70%. I can ramp up on start up on these pumps with that controller. Starts out at 10% up to 70%. Eliminates any sudden pump starts.
Love that controller!
 
Pulse them!
I have a gyre in the center , rear wall. An MP60 on left side upper and right side upper and the waves ( which are WAV units by Apex) on rear wall left and right aimed forward.
 
You have to adjust the ON/OFF time to get a "standing wave". It does not matter what brand pump you use.
there is probably a formula to calculate it (the resonant wavelength).
 
Oh yeah I didn't want a standing wave or any multiple of that, more like a natural sway (imagine diving in shallow waters -- that natural wave motion that is much longer lived than a standing wave in an aquarium). But I don't think it's possible due to all the reflections off the glass. I spent an hour last night trying to figure it out and gave up haha. The flow cone is too narrow thus you can't just push water around the tank like a wave.
 
I agree w1 will get you the best wave, but I prefer w2. I used to use else mode but I think there is something wrong with their random mode because it ends up being very laminar and significantly less flow than either w1 or w2.

When I was trying to dial in a large wave on my tank (for fun), there was only 1 notch where it would produce the wave. In other words, you need to move the dial 1 notch at a time and wait 30 seconds to see how the tank reacts. It takes forever...

I have the opposite issue. Else mode goes nuts for me.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
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