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Saltine
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How do you know which RO System filter to change?
- Thread starter Saltine
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The biggest reason I suggest buying directly from Spectrapure is so you know you are getting the freshest resin and the membrane has not dried out sitting on a vendors shelf somewhere. Hopefully they drop ship with Amazon or Amazon turns over enough units they don't sit around. This is particulary important with Spectrapure since they ship all their RO membranes wetted once treated and tested. Other vendors use dry, untreated and untested membranes so its only the DI resin you need to worry about.
I know their shipping is high but they tell me they only charge what the shipper charges them and do not mark it up.
I know their shipping is high but they tell me they only charge what the shipper charges them and do not mark it up.
OP
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Saltine
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The vendor is Spectrapure, so it appears to be shipping from them, it's not on prime or anything. Also I get the 3 year warranty through here, which you don't get on the refurb. So either way it's coming from Spectrapure directly.
Salt
Awesome. You will really like it once you get it set up and operating. Make sure you search my flushing and start up directions so you get it set up properly.
Here is the first one that popped up
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/did-i-ruin-my-filter.117823/#post-1324928
This one is geared towards replacing everything and disinfecting an older system but the process is the same. Install the filters one at a time and systematically flush each before going to the next. Remember to disinfect at least annually.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/did-i-ruin-my-filter.117823/#post-1324928
This one is geared towards replacing everything and disinfecting an older system but the process is the same. Install the filters one at a time and systematically flush each before going to the next. Remember to disinfect at least annually.
Outdrsyguy1
Active Member
out of curiosity, what does disinfection do for you? lengthen filter life or is the bacteria somehow bad for the reef (assuming it lives in saltwater...)?
Disinfection reduces/eliminates bacteria and virus growth inside the filter housings and filters. Since you have a carbon block in front of the RO membrane it removes all traces of residual chlorine and any traces of contamination have a perfect environment to grow in, clear housings which allow light in, warm still water and no disinfectant.
Back when I managed a municipal water system I worked with many customers who did not maintain their under sink RO drinking water systems and a few required medical care. We sampled bacteria from the outside hose bib, the main kitchen faucet and their RO faucet. In every case the outside and kitchen faucets came up clean and the RO faucet had extremely high bacteria counts. These are extreme but it can and does happen if you don't maintain the RO or RO/DI per manufacturers reccomendations, even if it is for reef use and not drinking water.
Back when I managed a municipal water system I worked with many customers who did not maintain their under sink RO drinking water systems and a few required medical care. We sampled bacteria from the outside hose bib, the main kitchen faucet and their RO faucet. In every case the outside and kitchen faucets came up clean and the RO faucet had extremely high bacteria counts. These are extreme but it can and does happen if you don't maintain the RO or RO/DI per manufacturers reccomendations, even if it is for reef use and not drinking water.
Outdrsyguy1
Active Member
Okay thanks. I was shocked when I visited the web links and found the disclaimer that it's not recommended to use for drinking water due to the di resin. I thought it was totally pure and safe to drink at zero tds!!!
Its more a liability issue than anything. Since DI resin is not normally intended to make drinking water the manufacturers choose not to put it through the very expensive and time consuming process to get ANSI/NSF approvals for contact with human foodstuffs. Not so much that it isn't safe, more like use at your own discretion and we don't want to be legally responsibe so we tell you no.
RO/DI has a very bland or blah taste since all of the minerals that make water appeal to our palate have been removed. It is not going to suck everything out of your body and you are not going to shrivel up and die, it just doesn't taste good so why drink it? Many many people have drank DI water for years but I prefer to place a tee and check valve between my RO and DI and use the RO only water for drinking, cooking and icemaker and leave the DI for the reefs. It is very simple to add a drinking water kit to a reef ready RO/DI and less than $60-$70 for the add on kit and a check valve.
RO/DI has a very bland or blah taste since all of the minerals that make water appeal to our palate have been removed. It is not going to suck everything out of your body and you are not going to shrivel up and die, it just doesn't taste good so why drink it? Many many people have drank DI water for years but I prefer to place a tee and check valve between my RO and DI and use the RO only water for drinking, cooking and icemaker and leave the DI for the reefs. It is very simple to add a drinking water kit to a reef ready RO/DI and less than $60-$70 for the add on kit and a check valve.
The higher the quality of the sediment and carbon block filters, the better they protect the expensive RO membrane. By higher quality I mean absolute or near absolute rated versus nominal rated which allows much more particulate matter through and the lowest micron range you can find, no larger than 1.0 microns. If the sediment filter does a better job of protecting the carbon the carbon will last longer and perform better, saving you money. If the carbon performs better the RO membrane will work better and last longer since it has less to filter out, again saving you money. If the RO membrane works better your DI will work better and last longer.
Its all about cost of ownership, better filters perform better and last longer so the minimal initial cost difference up front is way more than recouped on the other end since you can cut your replacements in half or more and the best thing is you can get 5-7 or more years out of a RO membrane that normally only lasts 18-24 months with lower end filters. My membrane is 8.5 years old and still performing at 99.4% rejection rate because I use high quality, low micron filters and I installed a water softener myself purchsed on sale at Sears.
Its all about cost of ownership, better filters perform better and last longer so the minimal initial cost difference up front is way more than recouped on the other end since you can cut your replacements in half or more and the best thing is you can get 5-7 or more years out of a RO membrane that normally only lasts 18-24 months with lower end filters. My membrane is 8.5 years old and still performing at 99.4% rejection rate because I use high quality, low micron filters and I installed a water softener myself purchsed on sale at Sears.
klp
Active Member
I am thinking of putting in an RO unit for drinking water and the DT. I appreciate your information to make that suitable with a check valve to make it happen. I was unaware that there were possible issues with using one unit for both. We have very hard water in Phoenix and am also considering a Scale Blaster for whole house from the website you recommended. Which Scale Blaster would you recommend and would that interfere with the RO unit?
I appreciate your expertise and willingness to share it.
I appreciate your expertise and willingness to share it.
OP
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Saltine
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You now have me considering adding a line off the RO to a drinking water kit. I currently have my setup in the garage, think I could run a 50-60ft nylon tube through the attic to my kitchen? Or would that distance put to much resistance on the unit?
thanks!
Salt
melev
Avid Hobbyist
The recommended distance after the membrane is 40'.
Great thread and it has pushed me over the edge with my current unit. I fly through DI resin and have fouled more RO membranes than I care to admit. I almost pulled the trigger last year, but I'm now going to order a spectrapure unit. I'm looking at the deluxe model 100gpd unit and they are running a 10 pct off summer sale. The auto pickling in clean water just sold me.
I have one question, I'm on well water and wondering if I should add a cheap 1 or 5 micron sediment filter in front of the one that comes with the unit?
My well water passes through a carbon spun prefilter, iron reducing salt and then a high capacity carbon block before it would hit the Rodi. My TDS going in is around 150, but the water is loaded with iron and after that still turns my current 5 micron prefilter yellow pretty fast. I change that one often to protect my better 1 micron sediment filter. I'm thinking I should continue this practice. Thoughts?
I have one question, I'm on well water and wondering if I should add a cheap 1 or 5 micron sediment filter in front of the one that comes with the unit?
My well water passes through a carbon spun prefilter, iron reducing salt and then a high capacity carbon block before it would hit the Rodi. My TDS going in is around 150, but the water is loaded with iron and after that still turns my current 5 micron prefilter yellow pretty fast. I change that one often to protect my better 1 micron sediment filter. I'm thinking I should continue this practice. Thoughts?
Ask Spectrapure. They have some washable filters that might recommend. The 0.2 micron ZetaZorb can be carefully rinsed though so you may not need anything else.
