How much can a 2x4 support horizontally?

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I'm building a new stand for my fuges. In total I'm looking to support about 50 gallons of water (~400lbs). I plan to use 2x4s throughout.

My question is: can I use 2x4s to support that much weight horizontally? I know they will work vertically. The 2x4 cross sections, will be 8 feet long, supported on the vertically by 2x4s on the ends and 2x4s vertically in the middle at 4'. I feel like it should be no problem and thinking a 2x6 would be overkill?
 
Sounds fine to me. I tend to overbuild but like to put in 2 x 4 on as close to a 45 as possible in the corners on the top for sway if you will. It distributes the weight more evenly.
 
I'm building a new stand for my fuges. In total I'm looking to support about 50 gallons of water (~400lbs). I plan to use 2x4s throughout.

My question is: can I use 2x4s to support that much weight horizontally? I know they will work vertically. The 2x4 cross sections, will be 8 feet long, supported on the vertically by 2x4s on the ends and 2x4s vertically in the middle at 4'. I feel like it should be no problem and thinking a 2x6 would be overkill?
What is the foot print of the 50 GALLON?
 
2x4's will easily support your 50 gallons. My only suggestion is to not have the fasteners (nails/screws/etc) support the weight directly. That is, make sure your leg attachments directly transfer the load down to the floor without nails and screws taking any of that load. Nails and screws should only be used just to hold the wood portions together. Here's a diagram from @RocketEngineer that shows how the (purple) legs should be attached, transferring load directly to the floor:

Stand.JPG


There are engineering load values for the different varieties/species of dimensional lumber, but didn't need to look that up because your small tank can easily handle the weight.
 
2x4's will easily support your 50 gallons. My only suggestion is to not have the fasteners (nails/screws/etc) support the weight directly. That is, make sure your leg attachments directly transfer the load down to the floor without nails and screws taking any of that load. Nails and screws should only be used just to hold the wood portions together. Here's a diagram from @RocketEngineer that shows how the (purple) legs should be attached, transferring load directly to the floor:

Stand.JPG


There are engineering load values for the different varieties/species of dimensional lumber, but didn't need to look that up because your small tank can easily handle the weight.
I like the diagram. My idea was to put 45 degree support from the red to the purple pieces. Since they are talking about adding 2 more vertical supports which to even me is overkill probably not necessary but stops side to side sway
 
I'm building a new stand for my fuges. In total I'm looking to support about 50 gallons of water (~400lbs). I plan to use 2x4s throughout.

My question is: can I use 2x4s to support that much weight horizontally? I know they will work vertically. The 2x4 cross sections, will be 8 feet long, supported on the vertically by 2x4s on the ends and 2x4s vertically in the middle at 4'. I feel like it should be no problem and thinking a 2x6 would be overkill?
If your plan is to have the stand 8 foot long two by fours are not sufficient
 
I agree, but the OP said there would be a center support at 4’
2x4 seem to warp pretty easy yes 50gallons is not much weight tho and with center support at middle 4foot mark with only 50 gallons of water should be ok. What is an extra 10 or $15 to frame the top with 2 x 6 how can someone question if it would be ok for such little money to make it better. I guess it’s his money not mine
 
2x4 seem to warp pretty easy yes 50gallons is not much weight tho and with center support at middle 4foot mark with only 50 gallons of water should be ok. What is an extra 10 or $15 to frame the top with 2 x 6 how can someone be so cheap when setting up a reef tank? I guess it’s his money not mine
$10 bucks is One additional 2x4 right now. Prices are crazy. The warping comes from being improperly dried, or not dried at all. Kiln dried lumber is a bit pricier, but worth it. Unless you remove a lot of material from the 2x4 or dramatically change the relative humidity, I should stay at equilibrium moisture content and not move.

Choosing straight flat and nut bowed kiln dried lumber from the onset of the project. Negates most of the issue.

Op said it's a stand for fuges so I'm assuming one per side. 25g per side. That is not a lot of weight really over a 4' span, since the center supports half the span.
 
2x4 seem to warp pretty easy yes 50gallons is not much weight tho and with center support at middle 4foot mark with only 50 gallons of water should be ok. What is an extra 10 or $15 to frame the top with 2 x 6 how can someone question if it would be ok for such little money to make it better. I guess it’s his money not mine
I was merely pointing out that he said there would be a center support. It should be fine with a 4’ span but you’re right that the cost to go with 2x6 instead is insegnificant.
 
Right but I notice you also used 2x6 for top frame even tho center supported as would I have. Looks great :)
Yes correct. They are both built to hold 180g tanks without issues.

We're on the same side here I believe. We both Used 2x6. Op didn't ask 2.4 vs 2.6. just world 2.4 be ok.
That answer for the info given (8' span, center supports, 400lb total weight) is yes imo.
 
Yes correct. They are both built to hold 180g tanks without issues.

We're on the same side here I believe. We both Used 2x6. Op didn't ask 2.4 vs 2.6. just world 2.4 be ok.
That answer for the info given (8' span, center supports, 400lb total weight) is yes imo.
Yes with center support I agree. I missed the center support thing in original post. Only seen 8ft long.
 
8' long, with 2x4 center vertical sports are more than sufficient as far as sag is calculated.
I assume you get the strength properties for 2x4s from a table. Does it specify a wood species? The ones I have been getting recently are almost like balsa wood. 1 screw in 10 goes right through when driven like it hit a void. It says they are yellow pine at Home Depot.
 
4' span with a 2x4 is fine, (so having the vertical brace you mentioned), 8' span would not be recommended (without a middle vertical brace).
 
I assume you get the strength properties for 2x4s from a table. Does it specify a wood species? The ones I have been getting recently are almost like balsa wood. 1 screw in 10 goes right through when driven like it hit a void. It says they are yellow pine at Home Depot.
You definitely can get "exact" stress load and support requirements using the sagulator online calculator.

I did so when building all of my 180 stands. SYP is not an option there. I can't get syp on the west coast. Our 2x4 are mostly Douglas Fir.

As you elude to, of course there are differences. Pine vs spruce vs syp all have slightly different qualities. One knot in any of them could change the integrity hugely. My above ascertation that 2x4 is enough, In this instance is soley based in experience building.
 
Wow I did not expect to get this many replies. thanks!

Sounds fine to me. I tend to overbuild but like to put in 2 x 4 on as close to a 45 as possible in the corners on the top for sway if you will. It distributes the weight more evenly.

I like the idea of the 45s

What is the foot print of the 50 GALLON?

So its actually 3 tanks. Two 20 gallon longs (12x30x12) and one 10 gallon (13x20x11). And wouldnt be completely filled.

2x4's will easily support your 50 gallons. My only suggestion is to not have the fasteners (nails/screws/etc) support the weight directly. That is, make sure your leg attachments directly transfer the load down to the floor without nails and screws taking any of that load. Nails and screws should only be used just to hold the wood portions together. Here's a diagram from @RocketEngineer that shows how the (purple) legs should be attached, transferring load directly to the floor:

I wish I thought about that when I built the stand for my 220g display 16 years ago :-) Thanks for the diagram. I need to work this in.

I agree, but the OP said there would be a center support at 4’

Correct. Actually not right at 4' maybe off center by 3-4 inches.

2x4 seem to warp pretty easy yes 50gallons is not much weight tho and with center support at middle 4foot mark with only 50 gallons of water should be ok. What is an extra 10 or $15 to frame the top with 2 x 6 how can someone question if it would be ok for such little money to make it better. I guess it’s his money not mine

Yea if its a matter of 10-15 I guess I just not lumber is expensive, I'm doing alot of other work, and I want to save space. 2" would make a difference in my design.

$10 bucks is One additional 2x4 right now. Prices are crazy. The warping comes from being improperly dried, or not dried at all. Kiln dried lumber is a bit pricier, but worth it. Unless you remove a lot of material from the 2x4 or dramatically change the relative humidity, I should stay at equilibrium moisture content and not move.

Choosing straight flat and nut bowed kiln dried lumber from the onset of the project. Negates most of the issue.

Op said it's a stand for fuges so I'm assuming one per side. 25g per side. That is not a lot of weight really over a 4' span, since the center supports half the span.

I got the 2x4s from Lowes. I really took the time to pick out the straightest ones. But realize its not from a lumber store.
 

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