How to raise salary with brine?

rmorris_14

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I must have used low salinity water during a water change last night. I’m not sure how it happened as I triple checked it, but here we are. :::sigh::::
I checked the salinity this morning and it’s down to 1.024. Can someone tell
Me how to make and administer a brine solution to raise the salinity back up to 1.026?
I double checked the calibration on on the refractometer and checked it against one of my other tanks. They are reading fine. So I don’t think it’s a meter error.
 
Exact calculations never seem to be accurate for me since I don't know the exact water volume of my system and I end up estimating. So, if I understand your question correctly: You want to increase the salinity of your system?

1.024 isn't a bad salinity and many reefers run at this salinity regularly...but if you want to get back to 1.026, there are a couple of things you can do:

1. Water change -- adjust the new water to the 1.026 (or even a little higher) and then make the water change increases daily until you get to the desired final salinity. or--
2. Just create a concentrated salinity solution (no specific recipe)...and slowly add some to the system while doing regular salinity checks until you are at your desired salinity.

Maybe some others will respond with an exact formula...

But, you will also want to find out the cause of the sudden drop in salinity. Many times, this has to do with topping off the evaporated water in the system...just a place you might want to check into.
 
Thanks for the response.. I’m looking to go with option two as I just did a ten gallon water change last night and don’t really want to do another one.. more work hahaha.
-im pretty sure it’s due to low salinity water for the water change last night as I checked it before and it was normal. I’m not crazy about my refractometer as the reading vary depending on how long I let the water sit on the meter. I have been letting it sit for at least 30 seconds but a minute seems to be the sweet spot.
thanks for the reassurance that 1.024 isn’t bad. I did know that. I just want things to be stable.
 
I must have used low salinity water during a water change last night. I’m not sure how it happened as I triple checked it, but here we are. :::sigh::::
I checked the salinity this morning and it’s down to 1.024. Can someone tell
Me how to make and administer a brine solution to raise the salinity back up to 1.026?
I double checked the calibration on on the refractometer and checked it against one of my other tanks. They are reading fine. So I don’t think it’s a meter error.
1.024 is acceptable. 1.025 is target for many.
How can you verify (your question) - Take a water sample to a trusted LFS and have them test for you and see what results they come up with.
Salinity targets often supported with readings +/- 1
 
1.024 is acceptable. 1.025 is target for many.
How can you verify (your question) - Take a water sample to a trusted LFS and have them test for you and see what results they come up with.
Salinity targets often supported with readings +/- 1
Thanks...I don’t have one of those that isn’t an hour away.. wah wahhhh
 
I'm not sure what you mean by a brine solution, but the best way to raise salinity is to just replace evaporated water with seawater until you reach your target salinity. Water changes are not the best way.
 
I'm not sure what you mean by a brine solution, but the best way to raise salinity is to just replace evaporated water with seawater until you reach your target salinity. Water changes are not the best way.
I was hoping to do it faster. My tank has a lid, so evaporation doesn’t really happen all that fast. I read somewhere that you could mix a really high salinity mixture (what I meant by brine) and the gradually add it to the tank until the desired salinity is reached.
 
I was hoping to do it faster. My tank has a lid, so evaporation doesn’t really happen all that fast. I read somewhere that you could mix a really high salinity mixture (what I meant by brine) and the gradually add it to the tank until the desired salinity is reached.
 
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Adding any amount of sw to your top off will raise salinity. Depends on when or how long ago you lowered it. Id correct it asap if I caught it soon enough otherwise I agree by raising it back up say over a week or several days.
D
 
I was hoping to do it faster. My tank has a lid, so evaporation doesn’t really happen all that fast. I read somewhere that you could mix a really high salinity mixture (what I meant by brine) and the gradually add it to the tank until the desired salinity is reached.

High salinity can lead to preciptiation. I'd be careful if you feel you must go that route.
 
High salinity can lead to preciptiation. I'd be careful if you feel you must go that route.
If you have been running @1.024 with stability for a year, would you try to raise salinity to 1.026 or just stay put?
(experiencing possible slow growth)
(New "confident" salinity tester)
 
If you have been running @1.024 with stability for a year, would you try to raise salinity to 1.026 or just stay put?
(experiencing possible slow growth)
(New "confident" salinity tester)
Do your corals look happy and healthy? For slow growth, I would associate it more with alk level, nutrients and traces.

I would probably move to 1.025 in a gradual fashion. Not as a single correction, but more as a target level for maintenance (water changes, etc.). 1.024 is not going to be a threat to your corals.

I once ran my tank at 1.030 for several months by accident when I accidentally used hydrometers that measured in density and thought they were measuring in specific gravity. My corals fared remarkably well, but were very easy to stress at that salinity.
 
Do your corals look happy and healthy? For slow growth, I would associate it more with alk level, nutrients and traces.

I would probably move to 1.025 in a gradual fashion. Not as a single correction, but more as a target level for maintenance (water changes, etc.). 1.024 is not going to be a threat to your corals.

I once ran my tank at 1.030 for several months by accident when I accidentally used hydrometers that measured in density and thought they were measuring in specific gravity. My corals fared remarkably well, but were very easy to stress at that salinity.
Everything looks great colors are enhanced from original colors, things are entrusting, alk/cal and mag are great.

The only thing that has changed, is that I got a new HI98319 tester and its constantly testing all my water .002 off my Milwaukee MA887 wich I calibrated with rodi water (I know thats not how to calibrate it) I always make sure its up to temp but I have always kinda had a worry in the back of my mind about it, and my calibration process.

Now the tank (two tanks) has been running for so long at that salinity I know that its a custom to that salinity, I wonder if I should just make that my salinity # or slowly try to change it and go up, over time.... @Randy Holmes-Farley id love to have just 1 of your two cents on that..
 
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Everything looks great colors are enhanced from original colors, things are entrusting, alk/cal and mag are great.

The only thing that has changed, is that I got a new HI98319 tester and its constantly testing all my water .002 off my Milwaukee MA887 wich I calibrated with rodi water (I know thats not how to calibrate it) I always make sure its up to temp but I have always kinda had a worry in the back of my mind about it, and my calibration process.

Now the tank (two tanks) has been running for so long at that salinity I know that its a custom to that salinity, I wonder if I should just make that my salinity # or slowly try to change it and go up, over time.... @Randy Holmes-Farley id love to have just 1 of your two cents on that..
The stated accuracy of the Milwaukee MA887 instrument is +- 0.002
so it is within spec.

If its reading is different to a freshly calibrated Hanna, just mark the difference on a sticker for reference.

RODI water is fine for calibrating the Milwaukee, you can ignore the manual.
 
I increase salinity without a water change by taking tank water and adding salt, mixing then adding back and waiting a bit before testing and confirming. Rinse. Repeat. Until completed.

I don’t measure in so acidic gravity such as 1.026 but in salinity such as 35 ppm which is 3.5% salt vs volume. This makes it easier to calculate how much extra salt is needed and how to break up the dosage to prevent drastically changing salinity and causing shock.

Water can contain 35% salt in solution. At least I believe that’s the solution of the Dead Sea.

One cup contains 16 tbs

1/2 cup salt makes about one gallon at 35 ppm.

Just calculate how many cups needed to raise current salinity to required level.

Determine how many cups or tbs to safety change per dose.

I’ve found I can put four tbs per liter of aquarium water, stir it quickly and add to tank which will dissolve quickly. You’ll see the water get blurring due to the higher salinity being added. Why I add it slowly and to the filter to help avoid shocking the inhabitants.

Those with a sump and dozer could do this slowly over time or just dump it into the sock as it should be dissolved by the time it enters the tank. Otherwise perhaps dose it near the intake of a filter or spread across the surface of the tank slowly.

I’ve never been able to co conclude exactly how quickly tank volume converts therefore I test and add new dosages every two hours until completed.

Im also not exactly sure how many ppm change is safe and stick to no more than 5% per day. Slow never hurts. If higher amounts are safe with all inhabitants then someone please tell me how much and based on what studying or reasoning. I’d love to be able to do this faster.

Also, how quickly does tank volume adjust. Perhaps waiting two hours is incorrect on my part. Bring either to long or too short.
 
The stated accuracy of the Milwaukee MA887 instrument is +- 0.002
so it is within spec.

If its reading is different to a freshly calibrated Hanna, just mark the difference on a sticker for reference.

RODI water is fine for calibrating the Milwaukee, you can ignore the manual.
I've seen it "doesn't " matter also, but per manufacturer instructions im incorrect.

The .002 is within spec but its so consistent of a .002 difference i believe its actually a .002 off, I will be testing on a third platform today, with a floating hydrometer (I believe thats the correct name) but even that could be interpretation of the eye.

And I guess the difference isn't the biggest question, but is it better to stay at a lower salinity (1.024) or aim for a higher salinity @ 1.026(wich is where I've always been or wanted to be at)

Years ago I only used the swing hydrometers, Jeez I bet my salinity was never where I wanted it, but new times and new ways have me in line better to be more correct, and I'd like to do it right.
 
I use a brine drip to maintain the salinity in my tank as it gets depleted by my dialysis system.

Here's the thing, the potency of the brine is not stable and I don't know why. I have bucket with undissolved salt in the bottom, and clear brine on top. Tank water gets pushed through this at a steady rate with a peristaltic pump. As the weeks go on, the salinity in my tank starts to drop despite the fact that there is still undissolved salt at the bottom of the bucket. This might not matter in your situation, but, just be careful with trying to calculate how much brine will raise your salinity, without actually measuring the brine and adding carefully.

Also, DO NOT quickly raise the salinity in your tank. A rapid drop in salinity is no big deal, but, raising it rapidly can be instantly fatal to fish and inverts.
 

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