How to use copper

[Brew12]

Great questions!

1. Does the 30 day clock start at first dose or when I reach the therapeutic level after a few days?

The 30 day clock starts at the therapeutic level.

2. Once added, do I do any WC's or just monitor copper levels, water and fish? The instructions say to treat the replacement water w/ copper safe and this is what confuses me.

You should have a Seachem Alert badge for ammonia. I try to minimize water changes but if you have ammonia, or if you have lots of detritus in the tank, you may need to.

3. I assume I add copper if the level drops below. But, do I add the copper to the water BEFORE it goes into the QT? If so, I assume saltwater and not RODI, right? But what if it goes above....small water change and then adjust as necessary?

We add water in 2 ways. You use RODI water to replace water due to evaporation. You will not put copper in this water. If you pull saltwater out for a water change, you will want to put copper in the new saltwater BEFORE adding it to the tank.

4. I have a sponge filter in my HOB, do I discard that once the copper cycle is over? Or, will copper removal procedures remove the copper from the sponge? I added biospira directly onto the sponge and I am concerned I would be tossing all the good stuff.

I use the same sponge the entire time. It may hold a little copper, but not enough to be a problem. Starting a week or so after being established, I rinse the sponge off under tap water to help keep it clean. Just use room temp water and the bacteria will be just fine.

5. Finally, I plan on mixing some metroplex/focus w frozen food during the copper phase, ok?

That should be fine. Just try not to overfeed. Make sure your water doesn't get cloudy and be ready to add an airstone if it does (and you aren't already running one).

 

[Steve1500]

Thanks Brew, you are certainly becoming my go-to expert!

I think I overfed the first night using frozen brine shrimp. It seemed like the fish were feasting for an hour and I could see the tiny shrimp floating around. I used a corner of the square (plus some Silicon) and I think it was still too much. If I overfeed, should I skip the next meal (feeding twice per day with pellets in morning and frozen at night) or just stay on schedule? I have an air stone and will add it once I start the meds. I also bought a few Seachem NH3 alert badges and will stick those in today.

Oh yea, bought another ground probe for my coral QT....gives me confidence when I stick my hand in the water!

 

[Steve1500]

Thanks Brew, you are certainly becoming my go-to expert!

I think I overfed the first night using frozen brine shrimp. It seemed like the fish were feasting for an hour and I could see the tiny shrimp floating around. I used a corner of the square (plus some Silicon) and I think it was still too much. If I overfeed, should I skip the next meal (feeding twice per day with pellets in morning and frozen at night) or just stay on schedule? I have an air stone and will add it once I start the meds. I also bought a few Seachem NH3 alert badges and will stick those in today.

Oh yea, bought another ground probe for my coral QT....gives me confidence when I stick my hand in the water!

Lol. Selcon not silicon. That would be a bad fish day.

 

[Brew12]

Thanks Brew, you are certainly becoming my go-to expert!

I think I overfed the first night using frozen brine shrimp. It seemed like the fish were feasting for an hour and I could see the tiny shrimp floating around. I used a corner of the square (plus some Silicon) and I think it was still too much. If I overfeed, should I skip the next meal (feeding twice per day with pellets in morning and frozen at night) or just stay on schedule? I have an air stone and will add it once I start the meds. I also bought a few Seachem NH3 alert badges and will stick those in today.

Oh yea, bought another ground probe for my coral QT....gives me confidence when I stick my hand in the water!

As long as your ammonia is fine I wouldn't skip a meal this early in the QT process. So much easier to deal with just about every problem as long as fish are feeding. I would keep it up just to make sure they stay in the feeding habit!

 

[Steve1500]

Ok, I think I will start medicating either tomorrow or the day after. If I read your reply right, unless I have issues, I don't need to do a WC during the 30 days, right? If this is the case, I will ck water parameters, copper, etc. during this time.

On another note, I am going to buy my very first corals (softies and maybe LPS, 6 total) tomorrow. I added biospira (as insurance), LR and LS to my coral QT but I did not "cycle" it with NH3/ghost/anything. Temp is about 79 degrees, Ph is 8.1 and SG is 1.025. Tank is ready without the cycle???....just want to verify before I jump off the cliff. I will talk to my LFS rep about good corals for a beginner and how to avoid them killing each other at night!

 

[Brew12]

Yup, that is right. I think you are in good shape as long as you remember to put Selcon in the food and not silicone!

 

[Steve1500]

Yup, that is right. I think you are in good shape as long as you remember to put Selcon in the food and not silicone!

Lol! Would not surprise me if I did. I will let you know how things go. Excited but a little nervous, especially about the corals. Big day tomorrow!

 

[Brew12]

Lol! Would not surprise me if I did. I will let you know how things go. Excited but a little nervous, especially about the corals. Big day tomorrow!

It may sound crazy, but keeping coral in a QT tank is much easier than in a DT from my experience. When I was struggling with coral I would take them from my DT if they looked bad and put them back in the QT where they normally recovered.

I had a very rough start with coral. Still not sure why but I strongly advise you to ignore any advice I give you on coral other than how to set up a QT! ;Blackeye

 

[Steve1500]

Roger that. But nothing better than learning from someone else’s mistakes. Though I’m sure a will make more than my fair share.

Plan to test alkalinity in am. After all tests ck good, heading to LFS!

Thanks again for all your help and time. Steve

 

[Steve1500]

Hi Brew, I tested my coral QT this am and here are my results:

Alk: ~8.2 (did not test Ca/Mg). That was my first time testing w the Red Sea alk tester so I am not sure my color matching was exactly right...those things are hard to read!
PH: 8.0
Temp: 79
SG: 1.023 (bringing it back up to 1.025 to match LFS)
NH3: 0 ppm (did not test NO2 and 3)

Is my alk to low?

And as usual, I have another question. I might get a cleaner shrimp and put it in the coral QT. When I feed him, will that cause NH3/NO2 issues w the shrimp or corals? Even if I don't get a shrimp or other invert, if and when I feed the corals, will that cause NH3 issues? Or, should I not get a shrimp and not feed the corals? If so, how will the corals get their nutrition?

Have a great Saturday!
Steve

 

[Brew12]

Hi Brew, I tested my coral QT this am and here are my results:

Alk: ~8.2 (did not test Ca/Mg). That was my first time testing w the Red Sea alk tester so I am not sure my color matching was exactly right...those things are hard to read!
PH: 8.0
Temp: 79
SG: 1.023 (bringing it back up to 1.025 to match LFS)
NH3: 0 ppm (did not test NO2 and 3)

Is my alk to low?

And as usual, I have another question. I might get a cleaner shrimp and put it in the coral QT. When I feed him, will that cause NH3/NO2 issues w the shrimp or corals? Even if I don't get a shrimp or other invert, if and when I feed the corals, will that cause NH3 issues? Or, should I not get a shrimp and not feed the corals? If so, how will the corals get their nutrition?

Have a great Saturday!
Steve

That alk is just fine. I feel keeping it between 7 and 9 is a good thing. And yes, the test kits are challenging. I have the Redsea and Salifert alk kits and they read about 0.4 different every time. It is more important to be consistent than accurate in my opinion. Coral will do fine at 8.0. They will do fine at 9.o. The won't do as well bouncing around between 8.0 and 9.0.
Your Alk and Calc will come up as you raise salinity so don't be surprised by that.

Most coral will get their nutrition from the light fixture. I do hope you put a high quality light on your coral QT. It doesn't have to be top of the line, but it does need to be designed for coral growth. And yes, your tank will be just fine feeding a shrimp and other inverts. Your coral will directly consume the ammonia from food or animals you add. If you are really worried, you can grow some macro algae which will also help keep things stable. I do use some coral feed in my DT but I never feed them in my QT. I have never purchased a non-photosynthetic coral. I try to keep my QT as simple as possible.

 

[dealseer]

I know everyone always says 30days, but I’ve always done 15 days at therapeutic with no problems. I don’t see how the fish could still have ich or velvet after the 15 days...only the tank and equipment would still be infected at that point.

 

[Brew12]

I know everyone always says 30days, but I’ve always done 15 days at therapeutic with no problems. I don’t see how the fish could still have ich or velvet after the 15 days...only the tank and equipment would still be infected at that point.

I do the 15 day method myself. Actually, I do 10-14 days. This only works if you remove the fish from the tank when the time is up. If you plan on leaving the fish in the QT for further treatment when done with the copper it needs the 30 days.

 

[Steve1500]

I thought about going w a T5, but opted for the Current Orbit LED. All the T5s were either too pricey or had really bad reviews. If worse comes to worse, I can buy a cheap T5. Heck, it's only money and I have a money tree growing in my backyard, even in Feb! Speaking of which, after acclimation, I plan on waiting about 1 hr before turning on the LED to about 60%. It has a preset for coral acclimation, but if the LED is about 2" from the water surface, and the corals are on a rack and anywhere between 3 and 6 inches from the surface I may turn it down. I also might also start them off at the bottom of the 10G QT and work their way up provided I have the space for each of them. Sound like a good plan?

Right now, I hope to get 4 softies and 2 LPS (frog and hammer). But who know's, I might change my mind if I see something I like and I know it is right for my tank and I.

BTW Brew, are you prior service? I thought I read somewhere that you were in the USN, but it may have been someone else. I'm retired USAF.

 

[dealseer]

Thanks Brew12!

 

[Steve1500]

I do the 15 day method myself. Actually, I do 10-14 days. This only works if you remove the fish from the tank when the time is up. If you plan on leaving the fish in the QT for further treatment when done with the copper it needs the 30 days.

Following w praz, so unfortunately I have to go the full 30;Inpain

 

[Brew12]

I thought about going w a T5, but opted for the Current Orbit LED. All the T5s were either too pricey or had really bad reviews. If worse comes to worse, I can buy a cheap T5. Heck, it's only money and I have a money tree growing in my backyard, even in Feb! Speaking of which, after acclimation, I plan on waiting about 1 hr before turning on the LED to about 60%. It has a preset for coral acclimation, but if the LED is about 2" from the water surface, and the corals are on a rack and anywhere between 3 and 6 inches from the surface I may turn it down. I also might also start them off at the bottom of the 10G QT and work their way up provided I have the space for each of them. Sound like a good plan?

Right now, I hope to get 4 softies and 2 LPS (frog and hammer). But who know's, I might change my mind if I see something I like and I know it is right for my tank and I.

BTW Brew, are you prior service? I thought I read somewhere that you were in the USN, but it may have been someone else. I'm retired USAF.

That light is just fine for a QT. With the softies you are looking at I would put them toward the bottom of my tank and just leave them there. Run the light acclimation program and you should be just fine. Light acclimation is much more important when you are trying to get PAR levels in the 250 to 350 range for SPS. For lower light softies it is much less important.

And yes, I did 10 years in the USN. Submarine electrician.

 

[dealseer]

Following w praz, so unfortunately I have to go the full 30;Inpain

Just use a fresh tank so your fish don’t suffer for double the time.

 

[Steve1500]

Just use a fresh tank so your fish don’t suffer for double the time.

Good point! They will already have had enough stress.

 

[Brew12]

Good point! They will already have had enough stress.

I keep a pair of 10g for this purpose. I've almost completely eliminated QT loses once I cut down to 10-14 days. Personally, I would only do 30 days if I either had a large number of fish, or a large fish, that needs one of my bigger QT's.