Huge ich outbreak):

[nano_ryan]

Hey everyone, i had a huge ich out break in my 150g. And before knowing it, I put a yellow tank from the 150 in my 60g! What a huge mistake Now every fish in my 60g has ich!! So i made a 20g qt for the all of my fish in the 60g. I just want to know If im doing everything correctly, so please feel free to say your thoughts or concerns. There is 2 clowns, coral beauty, bi color angel, 2 sunrise dotty backs, and the yellow tang. I just started running copper powder about 2 days ago and plan on waiting 30days to kill the ich. I also through in some imagitarium parasite remedy. It has an established sand bed, and hob filter. Power heads, heaters,1 rock, some pvc connecters for hiding spots. Temps are at 84.7 degrees. Everyone seems to be doing fine, but my 2 dottybacks has cut up fins. Should i put melefix in there also for their fins? Tell me if theres anything wrong or i should change with all of this. Thank you!

 

[TriggerFinger]

The rock is going to soak up your copper so it’s going to be hard to dose according to the package directions and keep the levels right. Do you have a copper checker? What kind of copper are you using?

 

[haleyf1024]

Make sure you use a test kit for copper. API is good for copper power, salifert is not. Make sure for the 30 days you keep it around 2-2.5 ppm. The rock and sand will absorb a good bit of it. I usually have to double or triple dose due to my rock. Remember to keep the tank fallow for 76 days!
An ammonia badge is also important as qt tanks are typically unstable

 

[RMS18]

Remove the rock and sand. It will very hard to keep copper stable. If you have any wrasses that burry in the sand use a plastic container with some sand. You will see fluctuating with copper if there is sand in there. That's a lot of fish for a 20, you may run into ammonia issues. I keep no more than 2-3 fish in a 20 when fish are 3-4 inches.

 

[nano_ryan]

I would like to keep my sand, for bacterial purposes. I have the searchem copper test kit but its useless cause it only tests to 1ppm of copper. Amazon is a mess rn and the copper test kit from api would take over 2-3 weeks to get to my house. None of my stores sell it and and and every website that sells it will take to long to get here. So im stuck without a test kit that can test to atleast 2.5 ppm. Its 2 table spoons per 20g for copper powder, for 2.5 ppm. ugh so frustrating

 

[RMS18]

I would like to keep my sand, for bacterial purposes. I have the searchem copper test kit but its useless cause it only tests to 1ppm of copper. Amazon is a mess rn and the copper test kit from api would take over 2-3 weeks to get to my house. None of my stores sell it and and and every website that sells it will take to long to get here. So im stuck without a test kit that can test to atleast 2.5 ppm. Its 2 table spoons per 20g for copper powder, for 2.5 ppm. ugh so frustrating

Hanna checker is only copper test I'd use. Everything else isn't accurate enough or your relying on color. Even with copper power my white tail tang got line lateral disease. Took him 5-6 weeks after qt was over to heal from it.

 

[SifuMemphis]

Sorry to hear you got ich. This is why most people say QT everything. At least now you know both tanks 150/60 have ich, and you should probably do a fallow period for both, or else you'll just keep having this issue.

Regarding setups... a quick search on R2R and youtube has a lot of detailed explanations: Humble Fish did a huge write up on how to set up a QT as well as details on Fallow period. Please note that dosing copper, you need to maintain certain levels, if it drops below X, you gotta restart the timer. This is why people don't recommend putting sand/rock in a tank since it can absorb copper, making it much more difficult to keep the levels stable.

How to Quarantine

How to Setup a Quarantine Tank The following are the bare essentials: Aquarium (10-30 gallons seems to work for most people. Bigger QT lets you house more fish and gives you more wiggle room when it comes to ammonia. Smaller QT is cheaper, easier to maintain and can be setup/broke down...

www.reef2reef.com

Good luck

 

[jda]

The sand will absorb copper too. Aragonite will all bind copper.

 

[Tamberav]

I would like to keep my sand, for bacterial purposes. I have the searchem copper test kit but its useless cause it only tests to 1ppm of copper. Amazon is a mess rn and the copper test kit from api would take over 2-3 weeks to get to my house. None of my stores sell it and and and every website that sells it will take to long to get here. So im stuck without a test kit that can test to atleast 2.5 ppm. Its 2 table spoons per 20g for copper powder, for 2.5 ppm. ugh so frustrating

Forget Amazon and those test kits... get a hanna copper checker from BRS. Also pick up a bottle of biospira with it so you can remove the rock and most of the sand (I would leave a small layer). You can put a sponge in the HOB for bacteria to adhere to. Keep an eye on ammonia, that is a lot of fish.

If you are not certain that the copper is at theraputic levels for the full duration, you basically risk the Ich coming right back when you remove the copper. Considering the DT would need to be without fish for 76 days... it is not something you want to screw up.

Copper High Range Colorimeter HI702 Hanna Checker

Compatible with fresh or saltwater! No longer do you need to read color charts, trust Hanna's HI702 Copper Checker to know the precise amount of copper in your aquarium water. The High Range Colorimeter gives greater precision over previous models and gives you a digital reading on a large LCD...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

 

[nano_ryan]

Forget Amazon and those test kits... get a hanna copper checker from BRS. Also pick up a bottle of biospira with it so you can remove the rock and most of the sand (I would leave a small layer). You can put a sponge in the HOB for bacteria to adhere to. Keep an eye on ammonia, that is a lot of fish.

If you are not certain that the copper is at theraputic levels for the full duration, you basically risk the Ich coming right back when you remove the copper. Considering the DT would need to be without fish for 76 days... it is not something you want to screw up.

Copper High Range Colorimeter HI702 Hanna Checker

Compatible with fresh or saltwater! No longer do you need to read color charts, trust Hanna's HI702 Copper Checker to know the precise amount of copper in your aquarium water. The High Range Colorimeter gives greater precision over previous models and gives you a digital reading on a large LCD...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

Im going to buy that copper checker. And an ammonia checker with the suction cup aswell. If the sand is causing problems then i will take it out of the QT.

 

[nano_ryan]

Update: I dont think one of my dottybacks will make it. he was laying sidways but still breathing. I thought the copper may have been killing him, so i put him in a breeder box inside the main tank to at least try and save him. Hes not doing anybetter in there. He may be dead now. My tang kind of went crazy on him, and that is probably the main issue, plus the stress of the ich and copper. ugh when will all of this end...

 

[Dr Jimmy]

Update: I dont think one of my dottybacks will make it. he was laying sidways but still breathing. I thought the copper may have been killing him, so i put him in a breeder box inside the main tank to at least try and save him. Hes not doing anybetter in there. He may be dead now. My tang kind of went crazy on him, and that is probably the main issue, plus the stress of the ich and copper. ugh when will all of this end...

I just went through velvet on some new fish that only made it to the QT tank. The laying on their side was the velvet. Granted I used cupramine. Cupramine saved my last fish and my slow reaction is why only 1 of 3 made it

 

[Uncle99]

Your temp is way to high at almost 85.
Run normal temps when medicating, 77-78 fine.

 

[nano_ryan]

Your temp is way to high at almost 85.
Run normal temps when medicating, 77-78 fine.

Im so confused. Everything ive researched about ich says that it will die faster if temps are above 84 degrees. Some people even sayed they run it at 90 with ich.

 

[SifuMemphis]

Your temp is way to high at almost 85.
Run normal temps when medicating, 77-78 fine.

I assume he ran higher temp to speed up the life cycle of the ich. But yes, not ideal for fish. It's most likely another reason why the fish i stressed.

 

[Uncle99]

I think the temp thing is a fresh water thing when we talk Ick.
In any event, almost 85 is 5-7 degrees above normal and will cause stress.
Speeding up life cycle won’t kill them, they only die three ways.
-they can no longer find a fish host for 76 days.
-they come off and fish is transferred to next holding (TTM)
-copper.
-hypo salinity water (explodes them)

keep temp same as DT, watch ammonia, feed well high protein pellets, vacuum up what’s not eaten.

 

[nano_ryan]

Lo

Sorry to hear you got ich. This is why most people say QT everything. At least now you know both tanks 150/60 have ich, and you should probably do a fallow period for both, or else you'll just keep having this issue.

Regarding setups... a quick search on R2R and youtube has a lot of detailed explanations: Humble Fish did a huge write up on how to set up a QT as well as details on Fallow period. Please note that dosing copper, you need to maintain certain levels, if it drops below X, you gotta restart the timer. This is why people don't recommend putting sand/rock in a tank since it can absorb copper, making it much more difficult to keep the levels stable.

How to Quarantine

How to Setup a Quarantine Tank The following are the bare essentials: Aquarium (10-30 gallons seems to work for most people. Bigger QT lets you house more fish and gives you more wiggle room when it comes to ammonia. Smaller QT is cheaper, easier to maintain and can be setup/broke down...

www.reef2reef.com

Good luck

Love the vids. Thank you

 

[nano_ryan]

Your temp is way to high at almost 85.
Run normal temps when medicating, 77-78 fine.

I assume he ran higher temp to speed up the life cycle of the ich. But yes, not ideal for fish. It's most likely another reason why the fish i stressed.

I think the temp thing is a fresh water thing when we talk Ick.
In any event, almost 85 is 5-7 degrees above normal and will cause stress.
Speeding up life cycle won’t kill them, they only die three ways.
-they can no longer find a fish host for 76 days.
-they come off and fish is transferred to next holding (TTM)
-copper.
-hypo salinity water (explodes them)

keep temp same as DT, watch ammonia, feed well high protein pellets, vacuum up what’s not eaten.

I dont know what to do

 

[SifuMemphis]

I dont know what to do

Pretty simple what to do... keep it around 77-78

 

[Letterkenny]

Pretty simple solution. Given the bioload I would set up a second tank. Get a Seachem ammonia badge and some matrix to use as seed media. Use copper power to dose up to 2.5 for 30 days and keep your live stock in there for 76 days while the DTs clean up. Higher temps are more stressful to the fish and this treatment plan will take care of it.