Huge ich outbreak):

[h2so4hurts]

Im so confused. Everything ive researched about ich says that it will die faster if temps are above 84 degrees. Some people even sayed they run it at 90 with ich.

That might be true for freshwater ick, it's not true for crypto.

Getting and maintaining therapeutic levels of copper is key if that's your chosen method. Hanna checker is really your only option there. I use Chloroquine, but a bunch of morons hoarded it because they thought it cured COVID so chances are you'd have an even tougher time finding that.

 

[SifuMemphis]

@nano_ryan Goes without saying, but your 150g and your 60g tank should go into Fallow period now, meaning no fish in them for 76 days to ensure the ich and eggs die off before putting any fish in it. Prior to putting new fish in, make sure the fish is QT'ed for 30 days with copper and prazipro etc.

In the other 2 tanks, I don't know if you have fish in there or not, but if you do, I would suggest taking them out and QT as well.

 

[Tamberav]

Im so confused. Everything ive researched about ich says that it will die faster if temps are above 84 degrees. Some people even sayed they run it at 90 with ich.

You are confusing freshwater ich with marine ich.

All you have to do is follow the stickies here ... it is a STICKY for a reason.

Copper treatment

Copper treatment What It Treats – Marine Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans) and Marine Velvet Disease (Amyloodinium ocellatum). There is some anecdotal evidence that copper will suppress symptoms of Brooklynella hostilis and Uronema marinum; however it is unlikely to completely eradicate either. How...

www.reef2reef.com

FYI you need to dose copper to the container BEFORE you do a water change or the theraputic level will drop.

Also you have to completely separate tools in your DT and QT and keep the QT in a different room. You do not want to cross contaminate. Don't stick your hands in your DT then go work on your QT tank. I have been working on mine completely separate days or between showers.

 

[nano_ryan]

That might be true for freshwater ick, it's not true for crypto.

Getting and maintaining therapeutic levels of copper is key if that's your chosen method. Hanna checker is really your only option there. I use Chloroquine, but a bunch of morons hoarded it because they thought it cured COVID so chances are you'd have an even tougher time finding that.

Yeah i bought a hanna checker from bulk reef supply, and it will be shipped in 2-3 days. So i can check copper next week.

 

[Uncle99]

I dont know what to do

Your right....it says marine ick......and maybe they do die at 86, but maybe fish to.
Some advice........WRONG...

 

[nano_ryan]

@nano_ryan Goes without saying, but your 150g and your 60g tank should go into Fallow period now, meaning no fish in them for 76 days to ensure the ich and eggs die off before putting any fish in it. Prior to putting new fish in, make sure the fish is QT'ed for 30 days with copper and prazipro etc.

In the other 2 tanks, I don't know if you have fish in there or not, but if you do, I would suggest taking them out and QT as well.

We have not qt the fish in the 150 yet, and let me tell you why. Me and my father own this tank at his business, so he didnt want tearing apart his tank to catch the fish. so we instead we started dosing multiple medications to try and stop it. We are going to start dosing polyp lab medic, and it stats to kill all ich during the free swimming stage. So we will give that a try. and if nothing works ill have to qt.

 

[nano_ryan]

That might be true for freshwater ick, it's not true for crypto.

Getting and maintaining therapeutic levels of copper is key if that's your chosen method. Hanna checker is really your only option there. I use Chloroquine, but a bunch of morons hoarded it because they thought it cured COVID so chances are you'd have an even tougher time finding that.

Your right....it says marine ick......and maybe they do die at 86, but maybe fish to.
Some advice........WRONG...

So what temp should i lower to then?

 

[Bill_Moorman]

Sorry to hear your troubles. I may be wrong, but there isn’t currently a reef safe medication to kill crypto. As others have said, lower your temp in the QT, and keep stable copper levels. Your best bet is to order an ATO with the Hanna checker to keep the levels of evaporation in check, which will keep your copper levels correct. I would remove all rocks and sand, along with anything other than a few PVC tubes for hiding spots. It’s doing you no good, as any of the organisms will likely die off due to the copper, which can pollute your water and cause an ammonia spike.

One thing I will tell you, if you come for help, and you aren’t receptive to the help, especially from members who have been doing this for decades, you really aren’t helping yourself. It’s hard, especially with all of the information out there. Stay strong and consistent and you’ll be okay!

I wish you the best of luck!

 

[SifuMemphis]

We have not qt the fish in the 150 yet, and let me tell you why. Me and my father own this tank at his business, so he didnt want tearing apart his tank to catch the fish. so we instead we started dosing multiple medications to try and stop it. We are going to start dosing polyp lab medic, and it stats to kill all ich during the free swimming stage. So we will give that a try. and if nothing works ill have to qt.

Good luck dude. There's no proven way to treat ich effectively that is "reef safe". At that point, you're just wasting money on meds that claim they do.

You're essentially looking at managing the ich, vs. eradicating it. By taking the managing route, any new fish you add, or if fish is ever stressed, ich will show. Watch the video below that BRS did for management vs. eradication

 

[Uncle99]

So what temp should i lower to then?

Reef temp 77-80.
You can’t treat in your tank.
The strong may be immune.