Hulley's RSR 350 v3. W/Clarisea Filter Roller.

[Hulley]

I honestly can't say enough good things about the Avast Marine ATO set-up. The level sensor has no moving parts and doesn't need to be clean, it works off a pressurized tube.

Link for the ATO https://www.avastmarine.com/collections/avast-built/products/ato-kit
Link for the 12v switch. https://www.avastmarine.com/collections/avast-built/products/solenoid-valve-12v

The switch looks a little different that what I have but it's the same.

 

[brandon0921]

Pretty sure it'll work with the Apex Classic only because the ATO system I use is Apex specific but not Classic vs 2016.

It's a pretty simple set-up, the water level sensor in the sump tells the Apex when to send a 12v signal, which in this case is the switch instead of the pump. So I left the original water level sensor, replaced the ATO pump with the 12v switch and hooked up the water line directly to the 12v switch instead of a reservoir tank.

Before I had Water level sensor -> Apex -> diaphram pump -> water reservoir
Now it's Water level sensor -> Apex -> 12v Switch -> water line from RO/DI unit -> main water line into house.

Thanks for the reply. I think I can do this without a pump seeing I get ~ 60 psi into my RODI from the well expansion tank. I may have to move the RODI closer since the rise and run looks greater than what you have configured...What fittings are you using to get to your saltwater mixing vat from the same RODI system? I was thinking of a Y with a ball valve or even just a Y into the float valve of the mixing bucket. Float valves fail me often for some reason so I think the extra shutoff from the ball valve is a good idea.

 

[Hulley]

Thanks for the reply. I think I can do this without a pump seeing I get ~ 60 psi into my RODI from the well expansion tank. I may have to move the RODI closer since the rise and run looks greater than what you have configured...What fittings are you using to get to your saltwater mixing vat from the same RODI system? I was thinking of a Y with a ball valve or even just a Y into the float valve of the mixing bucket. Float valves fail me often for some reason so I think the extra shutoff from the ball valve is a good idea.

Ugh, I haven't set-up the mixing station yet. What I have planned is going to cost me about $2k and I don't really have the spare money for that now.

The plan is 2 - 65 gallon tanks. The fresh water tank will act as the ATO reservoir with level sensors in it to keep it filled, all of this controlled by the Apex, which means another EB832 and additional sensors just for the holding tank, I plan on making this a Auto Water Change station as well.

 

[brandon0921]

Ugh, I haven't set-up the mixing station yet. What I have planned is going to cost me about $2k and I don't really have the spare money for that now.

The plan is 2 - 65 gallon tanks. The fresh water tank will act as the ATO reservoir with level sensors in it to keep it filled, all of this controlled by the Apex, which means another EB832 and additional sensors just for the holding tank, I plan on making this a Auto Water Change station as well.

That sounds amazing! Almost a hands off fully maintained tank at that point haha.

 

[Hulley]

That sounds amazing! Almost a hands off fully maintained tank at that point haha.

That's the plan! Plus the goal is to finish our basement this year and do a larger tank so all this support will be used for it as well.

 

[brandon0921]

That's the plan! Plus the goal is to finish our basement this year and do a larger tank so all this support will be used for it as well.

How long have you been running your top of set up? Avast responded rather quickly with this;

"Unless you have a good membrane flushing system on the RO/DI system, topping off in small amounts like that is hard on both the membranes and wastes DI resin quickly due to TDS creep. But it can be done. Best bet is with a solenoid and backup float valve for maximum failsafety."

If I'm interpenetrating that correctly, sounds like it will burn out the RODI membrane prematurely, Im not as concerned about going through resin quickly.

 

[Hulley]

How long have you been running your top of set up? Avast responded rather quickly with this;

"Unless you have a good membrane flushing system on the RO/DI system, topping off in small amounts like that is hard on both the membranes and wastes DI resin quickly due to TDS creep. But it can be done. Best bet is with a solenoid and backup float valve for maximum failsafety."

If I'm interpenetrating that correctly, sounds like it will burn out the RODI membrane prematurely, Im not as concerned about going through resin quickly.

I've been running since the 1st of the year. I've heard about the membrane too but honestly, the water coming into my house already has very low TDS and a new membrane is $35 from BRS, so if I have to change it once every 6 months, I'm not too worried. Plus I do plan on doing my water mixing station by summer. I've heard of other people with the same set-up and they replace the membrane every 6 months. I can live with that seeing as the hassle factor is all but gone.

 

[brandon0921]

I've been running since the 1st of the year. I've heard about the membrane too but honestly, the water coming into my house already has very low TDS and a new membrane is $35 from BRS, so if I have to change it once every 6 months, I'm not too worried. Plus I do plan on doing my water mixing station by summer. I've heard of other people with the same set-up and they replace the membrane every 6 months. I can live with that seeing as the hassle factor is all but gone.

I agree, $35/6 mo is worth not dealing with lugging ATO water upstairs and frees up cabinet space...I am debating if it will be best to just pump from a reserve vat that the RODI fills in the basement, just not sure if their pumps will have the head height to make it.

 

[Hulley]

I agree, $35/6 mo is worth not dealing with lugging ATO water upstairs and frees up cabinet space...I am debating if it will be best to just pump from a reserve vat that the RODI fills in the basement, just not sure if their pumps will have the head height to make it.

Well, I heard their diaphragm pump has the head pressure to go up 1 story pretty easily. I have this very pump and it's what I plan on using when I go with my mixing station.

 

[brandon0921]

Well, I heard their diaphragm pump has the head pressure to go up 1 story pretty easily. I have this very pump and it's what I plan on using when I go with my mixing station.

Avast should look into hiring you with the all the information you have! Know if I will still need a solenoid if using the pump?

 

[Hulley]

Avast should look into hiring you with the all the information you have! Know if I will still need a solenoid if using the pump?

LOL! Thanks, I hate to sound like a fan boy sometimes but I think their stuff is pretty good. I got back into the hobby last summer after a 10 year hiatus and I'm amazed at the advancements and how much simpler it is to maintain a reef tank these days.

If you are using the solenoid hooked directly to your RO unit, then you will not need the pump. I have the pump sitting on the shelf now but plan on using it later.

 

[brandon0921]

LOL! Thanks, I hate to sound like a fan boy sometimes but I think their stuff is pretty good. I got back into the hobby last summer after a 10 year hiatus and I'm amazed at the advancements and how much simpler it is to maintain a reef tank these days.

If you are using the solenoid hooked directly to your RO unit, then you will not need the pump. I have the pump sitting on the shelf now but plan on using it later.

I think i wanna go reserve vat in the basement to sump upstairs. I think the diaphragm pump will get me there.

 

[Hulley]

I think i wanna go reserve vat in the basement to sump upstairs. I think the diaphragm pump will get me there.

That's the plan for me too. I'm going to go with the Barrel tender https://www.avastmarine.com/collections/avast-built/products/barrel-tender to keep the fresh water tank full and then use the diaphragm pump to top off the display tank and then of course a matching tank to mix salt water and an Apex DOS for the auto water change.

 

[brandon0921]

That's the plan for me too. I'm going to go with the Barrel tender https://www.avastmarine.com/collections/avast-built/products/barrel-tender to keep the fresh water tank full and then use the diaphragm pump to top off the display tank and then of course a matching tank to mix salt water and an Apex DOS for the auto water change.

They really do make some awesome products. Im very happy with my DOS if you dont already own one, just be aware that they are somewhat noisy when they run for a an extended period of time if you were planning to mount it in your living space.

 

[Hulley]

They really do make some awesome products. Im very happy with my DOS if you dont already own one, just be aware that they are somewhat noisy when they run for a an extended period of time if you were planning to mount it in your living space.

Thanks! I don't have one yet and this one will be mounted in the basement so I shouldn't hear anything, although I do plan on getting one for dosing that will be mounted in the cabinet.

 

[brandon0921]

Thanks! I don't have one yet and this one will be mounted in the basement so I shouldn't hear anything, although I do plan on getting one for dosing that will be mounted in the cabinet.

Solid idea. Its become white noise to me in my cabinet, but guest always ask me "whats that noise?" when they hear it spinning

 

[Krux]

Considering doing the roller mat project and have the exact same tank. Any chance you have a shopping list for the drain line plumbing components that you needed to complete the project?

Thanks for a great thread!

 

[Hulley]

I got everything from Bulk Reef Supply except for one fitting. If you were to go 3/4" for all 3 pipes (which I would if I did it again), then everything can be had at BRS.

Orange PVC pipe
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/orange-schedule-40-pipe-58.html

90 degree elbows
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/sche...-slip-1-5e72a74d8b2d25bc4ed9f479909c4b98.html

Union fitting, slip-to-slip fit. This is on the down pipe at the Clarisea, this is so I can remove the Clarisea easily if needed.
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/schedule-80-union-slip-x-slip-1-4440d927e935e3273252c4be793c9152.html

Gate Valve, slip-to-slip fit.
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/spears-gate-valve-slip-x-slip-1-46dfb1fd21d4e16401260f54d2b6a88a.html

3/4" fitting to the Red Sea adapter. This threads into the Red Sea adapter and allows you to glue a 3/4" PVC pipe to it.
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/schedule-80-male-pipe-adapter-1-3a6c2c9231df58107434b942fa600b22.html

If you want to use 1" PVC pipe, then you will need this adapter. This is not available at BRS. ***Very Important*** you cannot just get the 1" version from BRS, you will need a 3/4" to 1" reducer fitting becasue the Red Sea adapters are threaded 3/4", I found out the hard way!! LOL!
https://www.pvcfittingsonline.com/3-4-x-1-sch-80-pvc-reducing-male-adapter-mpt-x-socket-836-102.html

I needed this fitting for my specific return pump, the Varios6 from Reef Octopus.
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/schedule-80-reducing-bushing-slip-x-slip.html

I'm probably going to redo everything in 3/4" and build a manifold for the return so I can hook up some media reactors, but that may not happen for a little while.

Return Pipe:
3/4" orange PVC.
90 degree elbows - Qty 2.
Reducing bushing for the return pump.
3/4" threaded to male pipe adapter - Qty 1.

Main Drain:
1" orange PVC.
90 degree elbows - Qty 2.
Gate Valve - Qty 1.
Union fitting - Qty 1.
3/4" to 1" reducing male pipe adapter - Qty 1.

Emergency Drain:
1" orange PVC.
90 degree elbows - Qty 4.
3/4" to 1" reducing male pipe adapter - Qty 1.

Here it is now.

Here is what I have planned when I redo everything in 3/4".
Edit: I want to give credit to the sump pic below, belongs to @Whip . I couldn't remember who I got the pic from, now I do!

 

[jonnyeatworld]

Hey man, running into issues with my clarisea filter. The water slows down so much through the filter that my return chamber runs low. but the water never raises high enough to trigger the float switch to advance the fleece. You run into anything like that?

I need to figure out how to lower the float switch. It is as low as it could go right now. Wondering if maybe i need to raise/lower the filter in the sump

 

[Hulley]

Hey man, running into issues with my clarisea filter. The water slows down so much through the filter that my return chamber runs low. but the water never raises high enough to trigger the float switch to advance the fleece. You run into anything like that?

I need to figure out how to lower the float switch. It is as low as it could go right now. Wondering if maybe i need to raise/lower the filter in the sump

Do you have the unit on a stand?
I didn’t have any issues but I filled up the tank from the sump, so maybe just add some more water? Let me look in a bit and see where I have the float positioned.