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No idea!
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No idea!
No idea!Starving your corals of light and food imo. Need to test par. How many fish do you have? You can rent a par meter from brs 50 bucks, just need a deposit.
When they start looking dried out and brown means they are stressed, not high nutrients. I have 25-30 no3 and my po4 fluctuates from 0.15-0.30 (50-100ppb) and I have some of the most colorful sps I’ve ever seen. 0.01 is way too low IMO unless you keep your alk around at natural sea level, 6.5-7.0. They’re probably starving from uln and low lighting as 3 gen 4s at 65% on a 180 isn’t much light.just checked phosphate.... .01ppm with a hanna ultra low checker. I am using AB+ also. wonder if someone around me has a par meter. Kind of just guess what intensity to run. tank has been set up for 3 years in this house
AgreedWhen they start looking dried out and brown means they are stressed, not high nutrients. I have 25-30 no3 and my po4 fluctuates from 0.15-0.30 (50-100ppb) and I have some of the most colorful sps I’ve ever seen. 0.01 is way too low IMO unless you keep your alk around at natural sea level, 6.5-7.0. They’re probably starving from uln and low lighting as 3 gen 4s at 65% on a 180 isn’t much light.
You didn't mention ICP test......I don't get it, my acros always look like trash or they brown or turn white. I have really good flow with two mp40s, 2 wavs, and then my return. Lights are 3 Radion gen 4 pros at 65%. tank is a 180 by the way. salinity is a stable 1.025, alk - 8-9 usually 8.5, calc- 415-450 mag 1510. All checked with a trident. PH- 8.0 (night) 8.3(day). polyp extension is also garbage. I'm going to check my phosphates and see what thats at
When they start looking dried out and brown means they are stressed, not high nutrients. I have 25-30 no3 and my po4 fluctuates from 0.15-0.30 (50-100ppb) and I have some of the most colorful sps I’ve ever seen. 0.01 is way too low IMO unless you keep your alk around at natural sea level, 6.5-7.0. They’re probably starving from uln and low lighting as 3 gen 4s at 65% on a 180 isn’t much light.
I like your style brotherYou’re the one that led me to start forgetting so much about nutrients. I also dose flatworm stop and KZ coral nutrition and my growth had skyrocketed.
High nutrients was the key for me.
I have some Brightwell phosphate that I got from BRS. ill start slowly adding and get the number up. nitrates should be 5-10?
I believe, as this is what seems to have lead to sps success for me, that they need high quality light, strong enough random flow that polyps dance a little every 5-10 seconds and lots of fish poop. Elevated no3/po4 May cause some algae, which I have none, but what’s better? Happy sps with a little algae or dead sps and no algae. I have 10-15 turbo snails and close to 30-35 hermit crabs in my little sps cube. In the last 2 weeks my alk was 8, then skyrocketed to over 40 and then down to 12, then to 7.5 and now it’s close to 9. I only lost 2 frags but all my mini colonies look like nothing ever happened. I believe it’s because I had elevated nutrients to buffer the stress.I have the same issue and that is not my problem. I think the solutions are more complex than just nutrients.
I have the same issue and that is not my problem. I think the solutions are more complex than just nutrients.
I believe, as this is what seems to have lead to sps success for me, that they need high quality light, strong enough random flow that polyps dance a little every 5-10 seconds and lots of fish poop. Elevated no3/po4 May cause some algae, which I have none, but what’s better? Happy sps with a little algae or dead sps and no algae. I have 10-15 turbo snails and close to 30-35 hermit crabs in my little sps cube. In the last 2 weeks my alk was 8, then skyrocketed to over 40 and then down to 12, then to 7.5 and now it’s close to 9. I only lost 2 frags but all my mini colonies look like nothing ever happened. I believe it’s because I had elevated nutrients to buffer the stress.
This is true, to some extent. I, as some here will say that maturity plays a factor. Maturity means different things, but mainly stability and stability means different things. Of course water parameters, but also what we can't test for, bacteria.
Something can be said for established live rock as it brings with it those bacterial strains that corals need.
Of course light, light intensity, spectrum need to be conducive to coral health. PAR/PUR. Proper flow and available nutrients are needed.
Health of the coral at the time we purchase is key too. Stressed coral, with all things equal can be a struggle to get healthy. Acclimation to a different tank with different light and water parameters adds to the stress. Light acclimation is key to new arrivals to allow them to "de-stress". Takes time and is different for each piece of coral.
I still haven’t read a single thread where elevated no3/po4 caused stressed to sps, but there are 2 or more new ones everyday with “recommended uln” and they can’t understand why their sps are dying.
I only test no3/po4 now to make sure no3 doesn’t drop below 10 and po4 doesn’t drop below 0.10. Even Red Sea recommends a minimum of 0.08 po4 for sps frag in their reef recipes.I don't even shoot for ULN. only reason I even do water changes is to replace the trace elements.
I only test no3/po4 now to make sure no3 doesn’t drop below 10 and po4 doesn’t drop below 0.10. Even Red Sea recommends a minimum of 0.08 po4 for sps frag in their reef recipes.

