I have ick...REEF SAFE OPTIONS?!?

[Malifry97]

Likely brook since it’s a clownfish. Clownfish can be very hard to diagnose. Keep in mind brook can be very velvet like in the early stages.

Clownfish don’t usually show “white spots” from ich or velvet based on the fact they have a very thick mucus layer.

So should I use general cure and metro. General cure if it is velvet and metro if its brook.

 

[Malifry97]

Seachem - MetroPlex

www.seachem.com

so this will work for velvet AND brook. Correct?

 

[Tamberav]

Don't put meds in your display tank ....rock can absorb it leeching it out later killing your corals. Don't even flipping risk that.

Fish have to be removed to a QT if you want to irradicate it.

 

[Malifry97]

Don't put meds in your display tank ....rock can absorb it leeching it out later killing your corals. Don't even flipping risk that.

Fish have to be removed to a QT if you want to irradicate it.

I know. Im setting up a QT now.

 

[HotRocks]

so this will work for velvet AND brook. Correct?

No. It will work for brook.

In order to eradicate both you would need to use copper + metro.

 

[Malifry97]

No. It will work for brook.

In order to eradicate both you would need to use copper + metro.

OK. The only reason why I ask is because the website says it will kill velvet.

 

[14 foot reef]

Check into these products.

Videos - RubyReef

rubyreef.net

 

[MnFish1]

General cure contains prazi and metro, which will help with infections, flukes, internal and external worms, but it won't do much for brook I don't believe

There is data that metronidazole helps with brook - whether it 'cures' it - idk - but - if thats all you have use it IMO

 

[Malifry97]

There is data that metronidazole helps with brook - whether it 'cures' it - idk - but - if thats all you have use it IMO

Ok.

 

[HotRocks]

There is data that metronidazole helps with brook - whether it 'cures' it - idk - but - if thats all you have use it IMO

It has always worked to get rid of brook IME.

 

[flying4fish]

You've already gotten a lot of advice. But I will reinforce the statements that you must remove all of the fish from the display tank to get rid of the ick. Yes, it sucks...tearing apart the tank to catch the fish is not fun, trust me...I had to do it myself. You don't have much time since once ick is noticeable it's not long before the fish start to die. You can try to train the fish to feed from a net and then sweep them up once they get comfortable feeding from the inside of the net, but you may not have time before they start to die, and you won't get them all. You can also google some ideas for making a trap out of a plastic water bottle...you might get a few that way. Siphoning off the water and removing the reef/rock is really your only option.

Ozone and U/V are not 100% effective. You need to get all of the fish out of the tank and then keep them in quarantine for the entire 76 days. Yes, your fish in quarantine will look great well before the end of the quarantine period, but it's not the fish you are worried about, it's the ick cysts in the display tank that need to die out. I once cut my quarantine short by a week or so and within a few month the ick was back. After finally repeating the entire ordeal I've been ick-free for a very long time. In the future, quarantine ALL new fish purchases for a month before you put them in the display tank.

 

[Malifry97]

You've already gotten a lot of advice. But I will reinforce the statements that you must remove all of the fish from the display tank to get rid of the ick. Yes, it sucks...tearing apart the tank to catch the fish is not fun, trust me...I had to do it myself. You don't have much time since once ick is noticeable it's not long before the fish start to die. You can try to train the fish to feed from a net and then sweep them up once they get comfortable feeding from the inside of the net, but you may not have time before they start to die, and you won't get them all. You can also google some ideas for making a trap out of a plastic water bottle...you might get a few that way. Siphoning off the water and removing the reef/rock is really your only option.

Ozone and U/V are not 100% effective. You need to get all of the fish out of the tank and then keep them in quarantine for the entire 76 days. Yes, your fish in quarantine will look great well before the end of the quarantine period, but it's not the fish you are worried about, it's the ick cysts in the display tank that need to die out. I once cut my quarantine short by a week or so and within a few month the ick was back. After finally repeating the entire ordeal I've been ick-free for a very long time. In the future, quarantine ALL new fish purchases for a month before you put them in the display tank.

Alrighty thanks. All fish have been removed

 

[Rich Klein]

Feed the heck out of your fish (A.K.A Ich management). I somehow introduced ich into my 165 gallon tank a couple of years ago, after I had ~ 15 fish and many corals. I have no problem with others who would insist on removing the fish, putting them into quarantine, and running the tank fallow for the lengthly required time (somehow mananaging to maintain nutrients to offset the lack of fish poop that feed the corals... ), but I went the other way and just fed my fish well. My Hippo Tang had it the worst, but never slowed down or lost its appetite and signs of ich went away. My Fox Face had 1 spot, as did my Neon Dottyback. Other fish never displayed any signs. Since then I have introduced a Flame Angel, Blennies, a Mandarin, and most recently a Purple Tang (likely others that I am forgetting). I saw 1 spot on the Purple Tang that went away in 2 days and its been clean since. Never lost a single fish. Again, I'm not saying that I am handling it the perfect way to others who disagree with Ich management, but I have a tank of beautiful happy and healthy fish, and corals. I have not lost a single fish to Ich or any other sickness in 3 years.

 

[Mustbenuts]

I have been a maintenance provider for ten years and treated hundreds of different live-reef tanks; every time ick appeared I just made sure the water return outlet from the sump was positioned ABOVE the waterline of the main tank and within 2-3 days the ick had disappeared and never returned. I'm not a scientist so don't ask me to explain this, but it has NEVER failed and I never had to remove fish or use any medication to treat ick. It will cost you nothing to try and it can only be beneficial to your tank. You have more to lose if you don't try this.

 

[Halal Hotdog]

I have been a maintenance provider for ten years and treated hundreds of different live-reef tanks; every time ick appeared I just made sure the water return outlet from the sump was positioned ABOVE the waterline of the main tank and within 2-3 days the ick had disappeared and never returned. I'm not a scientist so don't ask me to explain this, but it has NEVER failed and I never had to remove fish or use any medication to treat ick. It will cost you nothing to try and it can only be beneficial to your tank. You have more to lose if you don't try this.

Ummm.........ummm............ What can I say besides there is no practical reason this would ever work.

 

[HawaiianReef]

I guess if you could find a food grade tote, that would be alright. But I wouldn't go used on one. You never know what the previous owner stored in it.
The best advice is a $20, 20 gallon Long tank from petco's $1 per gallon sales. But a better investment would be a 40g breeder during the sale. It won't be a buck a gallon, but it will be 50% off of the $100 price. So just $50.
Then go to Homedepot/Lowes to get a 10 foot long pvc pipe at 1 1/2" or 2". They'll cut it in half if you want to carry 2 five foot pieces instead of the one long ten footer. You can cut this up so the fish will have caves to swim in easing their stress. Then just a simple powerhead (no need for a bunch of flow. There's no corals) you just need to move the water around for some gas exchange. An air bubbler would be a great idea as well. You will need to do decent/frequent water changes, since the qt won't have beneficial bacteria established.
The dt just needs to go on without the fish. Yup.. 76 days Minimum. At this time Do Not use any nets or tools from one tank to the other. Not even mag. glass cleaners or siphon hoses... Nothing. Or you stand a chance of cross contaminating both tanks. You want to kill the ich in the qt and starve the ich in the display.
The reason for treating the fish in a different tank is because the treatments used to kill the ich on the fish will kill your corals and inverts.
When your done, be sure to Never use ANY equipment used with the qt for anything else, other than qt'ing again. If you ever need to. Reason for this is the chemicals used during the qt period to kill the ich could still be embedded in them. Especially plastic stuff. You Do Not want any of that in your dt.
Once you get going, it's quite simple. The hardest challenge is being patient. But as long as you are, you'll be fine, and everything will work out...Ich Free.

 

[HawaiianReef]

I have been a maintenance provider for ten years and treated hundreds of different live-reef tanks; every time ick appeared I just made sure the water return outlet from the sump was positioned ABOVE the waterline of the main tank and within 2-3 days the ick had disappeared and never returned. I'm not a scientist so don't ask me to explain this, but it has NEVER failed and I never had to remove fish or use any medication to treat ick. It will cost you nothing to try and it can only be beneficial to your tank. You have more to lose if you don't try this.

That's interesting. I definitely will try it. But I hope I never get the chance to test out this practice.

 

[crazedreefer]

Tbh when i had ich wipe out my fish.. what i did was get a 20g tank from petco stuffed it with all the corals i did have which was maybe 20 frags or so.. Then put all my snails and urchins in it too.. I put my condy anemone in those critter containers in the tank. Then i bought every fish i wanted.. and put them in my 135g tank. Then i did hypo in the display tank for 2 months.

All my corals made it just fine. All i did was use a pengiun hib.. sand fr9m the main tank and thats it. If i had more corals i woulds just got a lottle bigger tank..

 

[James Johnson]

Tbh when i had ich wipe out my fish.. what i did was get a 20g tank from petco stuffed it with all the corals i did have which was maybe 20 frags or so.. Then put all my snails and urchins in it too.. I put my condy anemone in those critter containers in the tank. Then i bought every fish i wanted.. and put them in my 135g tank. Then i did hypo in the display tank for 2 months.

All my corals made it just fine. All i did was use a pengiun hib.. sand fr9m the main tank and thats it. If i had more corals i woulds just got a lottle bigger tank..

That’s bad advice and a good way to stress/kill your corals, the correct way to treat any fish disease, parasite etc. is to remove all the fish and Medicate them correctly while you let the tank run fallow. This is the reason why you should always quarantine fish before adding them to the display. This hobby is all about preventative maintenance if all your doing is damage control your gonna waste a lot of money. A good hobbyist has a quarantine and medication ready before they buy their first fish. These are living animals. Please treat them well.

 

[Tamberav]

The only reef safe option I would try is a POWERFUL UV sterilizer set up for parasites and good quality frozen and live food.

Obviously not the cheapest option but a good management plan.