I think I'm killing this digi
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tito
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I've got a forest fire digi that has looked like that for months. Doesn't look the best but it hasn't stopped growing.
Looks like it is placed high in your tank? Try lowering it as it may be getting too much light.
Looks like it is placed high in your tank? Try lowering it as it may be getting too much light.
XNavyDiver
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Nah, digis' are hard to kill. What PAR is it under? Where are your big three at? Nutrient levels? Age of tank?
OP
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Jl330
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No clue on par, I don't have a meter.
Running black boxes at 100% blue and about 70% white
Big 3 I'm assuming is ammonia phosphate and nitrate?
Ammonia 0
Nitrate undetectable on api test strip but it's there because my lps are happy as can be.
Phosphate is low but not 0
Tank is 3 months old.
XNavyDiver
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Big three: Alk, Cal and Mag.
My guess is your alk may be high with low nutrients which is common in young tanks. Measure your alk, if it's high, let it drift back down slowly. Let the tank mature. You may need more fish poop and time. Also, try moving the digi down in the tank for now.
XNavyDiver
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I feel ya. It's hard to see something in your tank not doing well and not want to do something immediately. Really all your tank needs is time to mature right now.
If you're looking for recommendations on those test kits, I'm partial to Salifert for the cal and mag, and the Hanna checker for alk.
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Eddie7144
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Same thing happend to my forest fire digi. It fell off it's rock and was lost for a few days. When I found it most of the red was fone but it's alive and growing, when i got it , it was only 2 sticks now it has like 7 new ones
tdileo
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Doesn’t need that much light. I have black boxes growing and coloring acros 10” from the lights and the lights are only 100% blue 10% white. Also, bleaching (assuming it’s from light) is from too much light and not too little, so you shouldn’t turn it up. Remember the term SPS is a generalization, not a scientific description. I have SPS growing in low light and low flow, but most without experience in SPS would assume there’s no way they could survive under those conditions. 
Heliarc19
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Mine do this sometimes randomly for a day or two but have always come back. Anytime I adjust alk or after some water changes as well. Definitely invest in good test kits
It's alive.
It's also a new tank.
A $15 lux meter to measure light will help you out a lot.
How high above the tank are the lights?
Mix the colors to look nice to your eye. Note the ratio of the two.
It really it. No WB rule. Make it look good
The highest % one you will most likely not want to be higher than 40%
It's also a new tank.
A $15 lux meter to measure light will help you out a lot.
How high above the tank are the lights?
Mix the colors to look nice to your eye. Note the ratio of the two.
It really it. No WB rule. Make it look good
The highest % one you will most likely not want to be higher than 40%
+1000
Velcro
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Does the tissue look “burnt”? If so, check very closely for Monti eating nudis. I have them in my tank but a melenarus and two leopard wrasses in a 100 gallon tank seems to keep them in check.
Understood. But it do a lot of lights here and a lot of folks here use those now lights.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/lighting-upgrade-with-a-lux-meter-saltyfilmfolks.248417/
$15 lux meter.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LSFR0F...t=&hvlocphy=9061183&hvtargid=pla-505585159192
On most tanks about 18 to 24 in deep you probably want about 400 par at the top of the tank. This is a med light tank.
With led with not too much blue , 6000lux is around 100 par. So 2400 lux is about 400 par. But I'd start at around 18,000 lux. See how it goes for a week or two. Then bump it anothe 50-100 par or lower it if you feel it's needed.
Some coral are generalist , even in the same family. A digitata can be lower and higher light. So can all sps , zoas and other softies. And there are also true low light corals in each family.
Be knowing the set par in your tank you can make coral buying choices too.
Most of the lights like you have are generally capable of about 700 par full up at about 12in. So it's possible with your % that you were giving that coral about 500 par with no acclimation.
That can be a problem If it's a lower light coral , if it was grown under a different spectrum, or a much lower Par.
And oh yea. I've fried some stuff.
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Nope. You won't need it underwater. It's a pretty basic tool.
I still measure mine at the top and just make samll adjustments far apart to find the sweet spot. I haven't adjusted mine for close to a year now. The light has been on the tank for 18 months.
