I think my bubble tip nem is dying, any ideas?

moose11

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So I have had this guy for around 8 weeks. The first two weeks he was normal like at the LFS. Then he slowly kinda started to morph into what is seen here. No matter what I do I can’t get him to be bubbly, but he’s been like this for around 6 weeks now. How do I make him better? He’s apparently suffering and I was hoping he would just come out of it eventually, but I wanna do everything I can to make him better so he isn’t suffering.

I check my water 1-2 times daily depending on circumstances. Ammonia and nitrite have always tested 0
Nitrate is 5 ish
Phos is typically the lowest it can be in the scale or non existent
Calcium is generally around 400-440
Mag is generally around 1300
Alk is 8-8.2

I have good water movement in the tank, two filters since I don’t have a sump.

corals and fish are all happy
tank is a 29 tall with 2 prime 16hds

DE39A514-1BDE-4B51-B850-EE87BDE2690F.jpeg
 
I’m going to assume you’re using api saltwater master kit . As you said phosphate is low to non existent on the scale.

Api only goes as low as 0.25 which is insanely high compared to the levels we want .

Next question . How old is the tank ?
Can you say every parameter you test is always the same and not fluctuating from day to day ?
 
So I have had this guy for around 8 weeks. The first two weeks he was normal like at the LFS. Then he slowly kinda started to morph into what is seen here. No matter what I do I can’t get him to be bubbly, but he’s been like this for around 6 weeks now. How do I make him better? He’s apparently suffering and I was hoping he would just come out of it eventually, but I wanna do everything I can to make him better so he isn’t suffering.

I check my water 1-2 times daily depending on circumstances. Ammonia and nitrite have always tested 0
Nitrate is 5 ish
Phos is typically the lowest it can be in the scale or non existent
Calcium is generally around 400-440
Mag is generally around 1300
Alk is 8-8.2

I have good water movement in the tank, two filters since I don’t have a sump.

corals and fish are all happy
tank is a 29 tall with 2 prime 16hds

DE39A514-1BDE-4B51-B850-EE87BDE2690F.jpeg
Pics are dark to fully see but with two hang on filters, you are missing some biological needs for anemone who does not take change well. If this tank is less than 4-6 months, may pose also an issue with anemone.
I suspect false readings especially if you are using API kits mainly on ammonia reading.
The power filter units are a mechanical filter and you want to have mechanical , biological and chemical to manage proper water quality. The filters you have will polish water and trap particles via the cartridge.
Chemical is what traps and breaks down chemical compounds such as feces and uneaten food often accomplished carbon and GFO
Biological is what utilizes the natural process of biological filtration such as use of ceramic nuggets, bio blocks, and microscopic bacteria surfaces. Best it to add or use a hang on refugium such as Reef octopus or AquaMaxx unit and even add a hang on skimmer such as ice cap K1- or K2 100
 
Pics are dark to fully see but with two hang on filters, you are missing some biological needs for anemone who does not take change well. If this tank is less than 4-6 months, may pose also an issue with anemone.
I suspect false readings especially if you are using API kits mainly on ammonia reading.
The power filter units are a mechanical filter and you want to have mechanical , biological and chemical to manage proper water quality. The filters you have will polish water and trap particles via the cartridge.
Chemical is what traps and breaks down chemical compounds such as feces and uneaten food often accomplished carbon and GFO
Biological is what utilizes the natural process of biological filtration such as use of ceramic nuggets, bio blocks, and microscopic bacteria surfaces. Best it to add or use a hang on refugium such as Reef octopus or AquaMaxx unit and even add a hang on skimmer such as ice cap K1- or K2 100
Although ceramics do help with biological filtration I was always lead to believe they are only contributing to the old saying of canisters being nitrate factories .

They can be challenging to throughly clean and as frequent as needed to maintain stable or reduced nutrient levels
 
Although ceramics do help with biological filtration I was always lead to believe they are only contributing to the old saying of canisters being nitrate factories .

They can be challenging to throughly clean and as frequent as needed to maintain stable or reduced nutrient levels
Those are example of such of biological processes
 
I’m going to assume you’re using api saltwater master kit . As you said phosphate is low to non existent on the scale.

Api only goes as low as 0.25 which is insanely high compared to the levels we want .

Next question . How old is the tank ?
Can you say every parameter you test is always the same and not fluctuating from day to day ?
I have it tested at LFS and spot check at home with fluval.

The alk fluctuates a little daily from day to night, from 8.2 to around 8

The other ones on hannah checkers are normally always right around the same
 
How about the rocks? Live rock or dry rock?

Edit: and can you share your prime LED schedules?
I’m not certain how to do that? I have blues on 12 hrs a day with ramping on and off. The sand is around 100 par and the top of the water is around 300 ish. Started with live rocks from LFS aquarium.
 
Pics are dark to fully see but with two hang on filters, you are missing some biological needs for anemone who does not take change well. If this tank is less than 4-6 months, may pose also an issue with anemone.
I suspect false readings especially if you are using API kits mainly on ammonia reading.
The power filter units are a mechanical filter and you want to have mechanical , biological and chemical to manage proper water quality. The filters you have will polish water and trap particles via the cartridge.
Chemical is what traps and breaks down chemical compounds such as feces and uneaten food often accomplished carbon and GFO
Biological is what utilizes the natural process of biological filtration such as use of ceramic nuggets, bio blocks, and microscopic bacteria surfaces. Best it to add or use a hang on refugium such as Reef octopus or AquaMaxx unit and even add a hang on skimmer such as ice cap K1- or K2 100
I will look into the skimmer and fuge but I’m nearly out of room to hang stuff. It’s a tiny tank and I didn’t really think I had room but I wanna make this guy better.

I do have phosguard and purigen in my canister to help with making sure water stays clean as well as cleaning every other day. Initially I bought the nem with just the HOB.
 
I’m not certain how to do that? I have blues on 12 hrs a day with ramping on and off. The sand is around 100 par and the top of the water is around 300 ish. Started with live rocks from LFS aquarium.
I usually just go to the MyAI app and snap a screen shot of the schedule. What PAR do you think your BTA is at right now? I have two BTAs, one that is happy around 150-200 PAR and the other that wants 300 PAR.
 
So I have had this guy for around 8 weeks. The first two weeks he was normal like at the LFS. Then he slowly kinda started to morph into what is seen here. No matter what I do I can’t get him to be bubbly, but he’s been like this for around 6 weeks now. How do I make him better? He’s apparently suffering and I was hoping he would just come out of it eventually, but I wanna do everything I can to make him better so he isn’t suffering.

I check my water 1-2 times daily depending on circumstances. Ammonia and nitrite have always tested 0
Nitrate is 5 ish
Phos is typically the lowest it can be in the scale or non existent
Calcium is generally around 400-440
Mag is generally around 1300
Alk is 8-8.2

I have good water movement in the tank, two filters since I don’t have a sump.

corals and fish are all happy
tank is a 29 tall with 2 prime 16hds

DE39A514-1BDE-4B51-B850-EE87BDE2690F.jpeg
Anyone in your system capable of bothering him, like a peppermint shrimp?
 
I usually just go to the MyAI app and snap a screen shot of the schedule. What PAR do you think your BTA is at right now? I have two BTAs, one that is happy around 150-200 PAR and the other that wants 300 PAR.
It’s right around 160 on that rock
I usually just go to the MyAI app and snap a screen shot of the schedule. What PAR do you think your BTA is at right now? I have two BTAs, one that is happy around 150-200 PAR and the other that wants 300 PAR.
0E833E99-C9FD-48F0-9584-0BB2D10E8D36.png
 
Anyone in your system capable of bothering him, like a peppermint shrimp?
No, no shrimp. I have snails, conch, emerald crab, and then just fish.
 
Phosphate non-existent would not be a good number, everything needs available phosphate, as well as nitrate.
 
Phosphate non-existent would not be a good number, everything needs available phosphate, as well as nitrate.
I stated non existent because the test I have shows 0, I don’t remember at the last LFS check but it was low, but not zero
 
It did, but since it shriveled I didn’t wanna force food at it and stress it more so I stopped. Should I try a mysis or two?
They do not require feeding.
I think feeding will make that worse.
If phosphate is zero, or less than .1ppm, I might bump that up.
 

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