Ich.. Fallow tank

No UV. Just don’t introduce ANYTHING new, and the ich will not have any fish to feed on. It is crucial to not add anything new as this will compromise the fallow, adding new parasites. In the future, you should really QT your fish, inverts, etc. or buy pre-quarantined animals to avoid a situation like this again.
Oh you meant eradication lol
 
When you go fallow, don’t introduce ANYTHING new, and the ich will not have any fish to feed on. It is crucial to not add anything new as this will compromise the fallow, adding new parasites. In the future, you should really QT your fish, inverts, etc. or buy pre-quarantined animals to avoid a situation like this again.
 
When you go fallow, don’t introduce ANYTHING new, and the ich will not have any fish to feed on. It is crucial to not add anything new as this will compromise the fallow, adding new parasites. In the future, you should really QT your fish, inverts, etc. or buy pre-quarantined animals to avoid a situation like this again.
Ye I understand the QT in a ideal world its just space and cost factor to quarinetine.
Everything in the tank was happy until I added a clown goby and then the death spiral started.
I'll be honest I love the fish but they can be a lot of hassel I am into my sps a lps and have always had a better success rate.
I just want a pair of melanopus clowns and that will do me then I will just concentrate on growing frags and colouring them up.
 
Ye I understand the QT in a ideal world its just space and cost factor to quarinetine.
Everything in the tank was happy until I added a clown goby and then the death spiral started.
I'll be honest I love the fish but they can be a lot of hassel I am into my sps a lps and have always had a better success rate.
I just want a pair of melanopus clowns and that will do me then I will just concentrate on growing frags and colouring them up.
Here’s the thing about QT, for both coral and fish—the tanks are cheap, and honestly, it’s worth having, especially in knowing the animals are healthy. I used to not QT, and things went well until that one fish wrecked it all. You don’t have to QT, many people don’t, but just note that every fish and invert you add is a new gamble.

As far as coral goes, I still don’t dip or QT my corals, but now I am considering it after losing a very expensive hammer coral to BJD by not doing much to prevent it. Again, it’s not necessary to QT, but each time you add something new, both fish and coral, you put each individual specimen at risk.
 
How long is it for Velvet?

Velvet is 45 days as well. It actually reproduces faster than ich, part of why it is so deadly, but it's partially photosynthetic in one stage, so it can hang on a bit longer. 45 days will kill off velvet.

Lots of people are and will continue to say 76+ days for ich. I would recommend searching "Jay Hemdal". He did an excellent write up on the subject. The 76 day period came from one particularly sketchy, not well documented experiment done in colder water. 45 days at 81f and you're good to go.

Best of luck!
 
I know it's something I am still looking into.
What is BJD?
Brown Jelly Disease—a bacterial infection that rapidly turns LPS and SPS (and very rarely softies) into a slimy brown substance. It spreads very rapidly and is quite deadly.

A pic of my hammer when it died of BJD—
36491A44-9F6B-4A00-9F7C-2FE6991C100B.jpeg


Brown jelly disease really sucks, and is probably one of the most dreaded things in reefing.
 
Brown Jelly Disease—a bacterial infection that rapidly turns LPD and SPS (and very rarely softies) into a slimy brown substance. It spreads very rapidly and is quite deadly.
God never heard of that is it rare how is it brought in?
 
God never heard of that is it rare how is it brought in?
Really it occurs when the immune systems on coral is low, and is often already present, but unable to grow so long as corals are healthy. However, if you bring in an unhealthy specimen, it can, much like ich, spread like wildfire, even to the healthiest corals. There is no true fallow for it, just preventative measures.

Thankfully, I got my hammer out before it spread, as it isn’t quite as waterborne as ich.
 
Really it occurs when the immune systems on coral is low, and is often already present, but unable to grow so long as corals are healthy. However, if you bring in an unhealthy specimen, it can, much like ich, spread like wildfire, even to the healthiest corals. Thankfully I got my hammer out before it spread, as it isn’t quite as waterborne as ich.
How do you get rid of it?
 
How do you get rid of it?
It’s much easier to prevent than get rid of. Best methods are iodine dips (and maybe QT) on new corals, and really just keeping your corals happy (i.e. good water, no stress.)
Really not something to be overly concerned about, though it’s good to know about it and ID it. Definitely not as common as ich.
The main difference is that BJD is a bacteria whereas ich is a parasite, so ich can spread easier once introduced.
 
It’s much easier to prevent than get rid of. Best methods are iodine dips (and maybe QT) on new corals, and really just keeping your corals happy (i.e. good water, no stress.)
Really not something to be overly concerned about, though it’s good to know about it and ID it. Definitely not as common as ich.
The main difference is that BJD is a bacteria whereas ich is a parasite, so ich can spread easier once introduced.
Thanks for all the help.
 

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