Ich help

Im pretty sure thats in there too and look into how to qt from humblefish also, you could treat with copper, cp, hypo(insome cases),ttm witch i use for ich seems to not stress the fish as much depending on situation, freshwater dips witch at first i thought was crazy but i fresh dip almost every sick fish,plus youd be surprised how many fish carry flukes but goodluck with everything im sure theyll b fine, juss give it some time
 
Im pretty sure thats in there too and look into how to qt from humblefish also, you could treat with copper, cp, hypo(insome cases),ttm witch i use for ich seems to not stress the fish as much depending on situation, freshwater dips witch at first i thought was crazy but i fresh dip almost every sick fish,plus youd be surprised how many fish carry flukes but goodluck with everything im sure theyll b fine, juss give it some time
I appreciate it man
Thanks for the help
 
If your fish atrium still eating try this.

1, Metronidazole 5 g made by SeaChem

2, Focus 5 g made by SeaChem (polymer bound nitrofurantion 0.1% )

3, Reef Plus concentrated vitamin and amino acid by SeaChem

4, garlic gard by SeaChem

You can also add something like vitamin c or selcon

Thaw out your frozen food, as well as Strain it threw a fine net or whatever you got. Then add a scoop of each powder to every 3-4 cubes of food, then add a little garlic and so on. Store this food in the fridge it's good for a couple weeks. It takes about a month of feeding to compleatly get the ick out of fishes system. Good luck
 
If your fish atrium still eating try this.

1, Metronidazole 5 g made by SeaChem

2, Focus 5 g made by SeaChem (polymer bound nitrofurantion 0.1% )

3, Reef Plus concentrated vitamin and amino acid by SeaChem

4, garlic gard by SeaChem

You can also add something like vitamin c or selcon

Thaw out your frozen food, as well as Strain it threw a fine net or whatever you got. Then add a scoop of each powder to every 3-4 cubes of food, then add a little garlic and so on. Store this food in the fridge it's good for a couple weeks. It takes about a month of feeding to compleatly get the ick out of fishes system. Good luck
Thanks. Will look into it!
 
Hi cameronh... Sorry to hear about your fish. It does look like ich and the fact that it's still alive make me not think velvet. So that's good news. Do you have a QT or two? As mentioned above, TTM is the fastest way to get rid of ich, however you still need to leave the DT fallow for 76 days to be rid of the ich. Also, now your 3 gallon has been infected with same.. since you dont usually keep fish in there it wont be a problem for you later.
Here's how to treat with copper:
Copper: Treats Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans), Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium); possibly Uronema marinum

How To Treat - First, it is important to know what kind of copper you are using. Cupramine is fully charged (ionic) copper, and has a therapeutic range of 0.35-0.5 mg/L or ppm. You would use a Seachem or Salifert copper test kit for Cupramine, as those are capable of reading copper in the low range. Coppersafe, on the other hand, is chelated copper. It has a much higher therapeutic range of 1.5-2.0 mg/L or ppm. As such, you need a “total copper test kit” such as API’s to measure Coppersafe.

Standard copper treatment lasts 30 consecutive days. The reason it takes so long is copper only targets the “free swimming stage” (the same holds true for all chemical treatments & hypo). While 7-14 days is the “norm” to reach this stage, certain strains of ich have prolonged life cycles. Indeed, even 30 days may not be long enough in some rare cases. This is why it is so important to observe after treatment ends, to ensure symptoms do not return.

Therapeutic copper levels must be maintained at all times during the 30 days, so testing often is important. If the level drops even slightly out of range, then the 30 day clock starts all over again. One reason your copper level may drop unexpectedly is if you are treating in a tank with rock and substrate; those should not be used in the presence of copper due to absorption. Conversely, if you exceed the therapeutic range you risk killing the fish.

Copper is a poison, pure and simple. It only works because most fish are able to withstand being in it longer than the parasites. Knowing this, it is wise to raise your copper level very slowly (over 3-5 days) instead of the usual 24-48 hours recommended on the labels. Doing so increases your odds of successfully treating a “copper sensitive” fish. Remove copper after 30 days by running activated carbon.

Pros - Readily available

Cons/Side Effects - Appetite suppression is a common side effect. If a fish stops eating, don’t add more copper until he resumes. If the fish is still not eating after 2-3 days, start doing water changes (lowering the copper concentration) until he eats. If this happens a second time after you resume raising the copper, you’ll know you’ve encountered a “copper sensitive” fish and an alternative treatment should be used instead. Some species of fish, such as angels, puffers, lions and mandarins are notoriously difficult to treat with copper.
 
Freshwater dips can be usefull to dislodge some of the parasites from the gills, which can give your fish more time before he suffocates from the mucus build up in there. Your ich problem doesn't look that bad yet though.

Here's how to do TTM
Tank Transfer Method: Treats Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans) only.

How To Treat - Tank transfer (TTM) is probably one of the most underused and underappreciated resources in our hobby. To properly execute TTM you need two tanks (or buckets), with dedicated equipment for each tank (not to be shared between the two). I personally use 2 of the 10 gallon tanks to do TTM, each with its own heater, thermometer, air stone, airline tubing and PVC elbows for hiding places. This is how TTM is implemented:
  • Day 1 - Fish is placed in initial QT.
  • Day 4 - Roughly 72 hours later transfer the fish to new tank. The time of day you do the transfer is unimportant, but never exceed 72 hours from the last transfer. The temperature and SG of the new tank should match the old one perfectly, so you can just catch & release (no acclimation). Transfer as little water as possible with the fish.
  • Day 7 - Repeat.
  • Day 10 - Repeat.
  • Day 13 - Repeat and done (fish should now be ich free).
After transferring, immediately sanitize the “old tank” and all equipment using bleach or vinegar. Rinse well. Let air dry thoroughly before next use. The air drying is the sterilization process when using vinegar, or detoxification process when using bleach.

Simply put, this process works because you are literally outrunning the parasite’s known life cycle. If a fish is infected with ich, trophonts will leave the fish at some point during the TTM process, and the encysted stage doesn’t have enough time to release theronts (i.e. free swimmers that re-infect the fish) before the fish exits the tank. Ammonia isn’t much of a concern with TTM, because every 3 days the fish is placed in a new tank with new water; or you always have the option of using ammonia reducers, such as Amquel or Prime, in conjunction with TTM since there is no risk of negative interaction because no medications are present. However, you do have the option of dosing Prazipro (if you need to deworm) at the onset of “Day 4” and “Day 10”; transfers 2 & 4 respectively. Just remember if you do this that you can’t use any ammonia reducers while Prazi is present in the water.

One of the cons to tank transfer is the amount/cost of saltwater needed to do it. For example, using my 2-10 gallons I go through 50 gallons of saltwater before the TTM process is complete. However, a thrifty hobbyist can use water stored from a recent display tank water change to implement TTM. Obviously, this only works if you are 100% confident that your display tank is disease free and don’t siphon anything off the bottom. ;-) The other problem with TTM is netting the fish every 3 days. That concern can be somewhat alleviated by using a plastic colander in lieu of a net to catch the fish (square ones work better than round ones):
19817318939533p

Pros - Chemical free solution to ich, highly effective when performed properly, can be combined with deworming via Prazipro.

Cons/Side Effects - Cost (if using all new saltwater), time/effort expended, probably somewhat stressful on the fish being caught every 3 days, does not treat other parasites such as velvet, brook, uronema.
 
Freshwater dips can be usefull to dislodge some of the parasites from the gills, which can give your fish more time before he suffocates from the mucus build up in there. Your ich problem doesn't look that bad yet though.

Here's how to do TTM
Tank Transfer Method: Treats Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans) only.

How To Treat - Tank transfer (TTM) is probably one of the most underused and underappreciated resources in our hobby. To properly execute TTM you need two tanks (or buckets), with dedicated equipment for each tank (not to be shared between the two). I personally use 2 of the 10 gallon tanks to do TTM, each with its own heater, thermometer, air stone, airline tubing and PVC elbows for hiding places. This is how TTM is implemented:
  • Day 1 - Fish is placed in initial QT.
  • Day 4 - Roughly 72 hours later transfer the fish to new tank. The time of day you do the transfer is unimportant, but never exceed 72 hours from the last transfer. The temperature and SG of the new tank should match the old one perfectly, so you can just catch & release (no acclimation). Transfer as little water as possible with the fish.
  • Day 7 - Repeat.
  • Day 10 - Repeat.
  • Day 13 - Repeat and done (fish should now be ich free).
After transferring, immediately sanitize the “old tank” and all equipment using bleach or vinegar. Rinse well. Let air dry thoroughly before next use. The air drying is the sterilization process when using vinegar, or detoxification process when using bleach.

Simply put, this process works because you are literally outrunning the parasite’s known life cycle. If a fish is infected with ich, trophonts will leave the fish at some point during the TTM process, and the encysted stage doesn’t have enough time to release theronts (i.e. free swimmers that re-infect the fish) before the fish exits the tank. Ammonia isn’t much of a concern with TTM, because every 3 days the fish is placed in a new tank with new water; or you always have the option of using ammonia reducers, such as Amquel or Prime, in conjunction with TTM since there is no risk of negative interaction because no medications are present. However, you do have the option of dosing Prazipro (if you need to deworm) at the onset of “Day 4” and “Day 10”; transfers 2 & 4 respectively. Just remember if you do this that you can’t use any ammonia reducers while Prazi is present in the water.

One of the cons to tank transfer is the amount/cost of saltwater needed to do it. For example, using my 2-10 gallons I go through 50 gallons of saltwater before the TTM process is complete. However, a thrifty hobbyist can use water stored from a recent display tank water change to implement TTM. Obviously, this only works if you are 100% confident that your display tank is disease free and don’t siphon anything off the bottom. ;-) The other problem with TTM is netting the fish every 3 days. That concern can be somewhat alleviated by using a plastic colander in lieu of a net to catch the fish (square ones work better than round ones):
19817318939533p

Pros - Chemical free solution to ich, highly effective when performed properly, can be combined with deworming via Prazipro.

Cons/Side Effects - Cost (if using all new saltwater), time/effort expended, probably somewhat stressful on the fish being caught every 3 days, does not treat other parasites such as velvet, brook, uronema.
Thank you @melypr1985
 
Can we see a closeup pic of the fish? I see ich, but I also think I might see brook. :(

How long have you had these clownfish? From what you're seeing... Do they just have white dots, or does it also appear that their skin is peeling or sloughing off?
 
Can we see a closeup pic of the fish? I see ich, but I also think I might see brook. :(

How long have you had these clownfish? From what you're seeing... Do they just have white dots, or does it also appear that their skin is peeling or sloughing off?
Well that's what I was worried about, I've tangled with ich before, but this time, he had white dots without the skin peeling effect. Although this morning they are gone. I put him in my 3 gallon for the time being.
 
Which is coral only so I assume I won't hurt anything by doing that
 
Which is coral only so I assume I won't hurt anything by doing that

It's infected the 3 gallon with whatever diseases he has, but if you aren't planning on putting any fish in there no damage was done. ;)
 
So are you saying as of this morning the fish's skin is completely clear of spots? If so, it is likely only ich you are dealing with here.
 
It's infected the 3 gallon with whatever diseases he has, but if you aren't planning on putting any fish in there no damage was done. ;)
So are you saying as of this morning the fish's skin is completely clear of spots? If so, it is likely only ich you are dealing with here.
Yeah the 3 gallon is and always will be fishless. It's just my zoa tank. But I put him/her in there last night and this morning the spots were gone. Except for one little spot which is fading. She's eating and very active
 
I am gone for 2 days and come back to see you having problems with ich :p
I'm glad they are doing better and sorry for having to go through 76 days fallow
 
I am gone for 2 days and come back to see you having problems with ich :p
I'm glad they are doing better and sorry for having to go through 76 days fallow
Haha it's alright. I'm more of a coral guy anyhow. I just figured I'd put some fish in there. So now I have to take care of them haha. Just found out fifteen minutes ago my hand surgery went wrong as the tendons he sowed together won't allow me to make a fist.....whatsoever! And now I have to deal with ich:D just shoot me lol
 

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