Ich Management

[Sharkbait19]

Hypo isn’t dangerous to fish as long as you don’t hold them there longer than the treatment period. It does however kill inverts.

Hyposalinity

Hyposalinity Jay Hemdal 2024 This term refers to a long-term bath treatment for marine fishes in which the salt content of the water is lowered and held below the point that certain parasites can survive. The salt level reached, and the time of the treatment are the two variables...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[noahclay82]

I have a 150 gallon. I have a 150 watt UV that i can put on and take off as needed. Its huge, an eye sore, and cost $1,000, but it knocks it out and i have yet to loose a fish due to ich. I put it on when i get a new fish, which hasn't been in a while these days.

Is that a little to much for 75 gallons

 

[Cool tangs]

What fish do you have currently?

Look ich management can work to an extent. But if you want a heavy stocked tank you need to QT.

Tangs are very susceptible to disease and they do like to have there little tussles from time to time that's just what tangs do and this can invoke some stress. Achilles are a lot more sensitive then the zebrasoma species. My purple lived through velvet basically all my zebrasoma's did.

I wouldn't call those sterilisers you really need more of a commercial grade quality and what happens when the power goes out? You may also introduce velvet into your system and whilst it's keeping it at bay once the power goes out and the UV fails boom it takes hold and your fish can't handle it.

Honestly UV is another expense and another thing to maintenance believe it or not it's way easier to QT. You don't need a fully setup QT tank if you do TTM just 2 containers/buckets/bins 2x heaters and a air pump with spare tubing and cheap air stones to switch out. Just make sure you have enough Saltwater on hand mixed from the same batch ready to go. that tank is pretty small size and it would be pretty easy to tear down and capture everything to QT.

Those 2 tangs will be fine at a relatively small size in a 75, I'd even argue you could fit another 1 or 2 small ones if your bioload can handle it and depending on your aquascape. But without QT I couldn't recommend that many tangs and I wouldn't touch anything else but zebrasoma species

Hope this helps, I've already been through the pain of not QTing and trust me once it bights its just not worth it. The LFS doesn't give 2 hoots if they sell you a sick fish or there system has diseases that every fish introduced get sick from. I lost a few expensive fish from this mistake of not QTing.

I've kept a few tangs now though and I really like to push the limits. Zebrasoma is by far the easiest and hardiest tang in my experience. My purple tang is a star citizen most of the time with the occasional chase and tussle. I've not had much luck keeping powders or anything of that shape(think it's were I live hard to get healthy ones to begin with). Not sure how they fall into the Acanthurus as there is hardy tangs in that species group, hence why I say powders shape as they seem to be very prone to everything.

Hope this helps this is just my opinion from my experience I'm not going to regurgitate info because I believe whoever wrote up the old info on tangs never really tried and everyone else kinda just took that as enough evidence. A.K.A the tang police. Heavy stocked can be done I just believe the only way to do that is with QT. Also each tang whilst have there stereotype personality they also to an extent have there own personality and some just do better then others in captivity. I believe introducing them to aquarium life when there smaller helps.

Anyway sorry this turned into a long post, I love tangs so yeah lol

Happy reefing

 

[Cool tangs]

And you have had Ich? Or you are just worried about it? If the latter, tank transfer for 12 days and in--for all fish. Just two five gal buckets and four air stones is all you really need.

If you've had I'd honestly take all fish out and do TTM method then house temporarily while the tank fallows for 76 days.

If you have not QT'ed previous fish but haven't seen ich then it's a gamble unless you still do the above.

There was a thread here a week or two ago about what made you tear down/start over a tank. I put colonial hydroids but completely forgot about my tank in my pre-QT days. It's impossible to reverse engineer out ich other than the above strategy.

Totally agree I also advocate TTM. Hunblefish has a great forum for this that kicks both velvet and ich. I've been playing around with both copper and TTM and TTM is by far the easiest method in my opinion and less waiting lol

Not sure on 76 days though, so far I have been QTing my corals for 35 days so will let you know if some day that turns on to not be long enough haha

 

[SlugSnorter]

Hypo isn’t dangerous to fish as long as you don’t hold them there longer than the treatment period. It does however kill inverts.

Hyposalinity

Hyposalinity Jay Hemdal 2024 This term refers to a long-term bath treatment for marine fishes in which the salt content of the water is lowered and held below the point that certain parasites can survive. The salt level reached, and the time of the treatment are the two variables...

www.reef2reef.com

no guarantee it'll kill the ich though

 

[Sharkbait19]

35 days is not long enough for ich. 45 days has been discovered to be enough, but 76-90 is most effective.

 

[Sharkbait19]

no guarantee it'll kill the ich though

That’s what it’s designed for - killing ich. Its effective for fish that are copper sensitive.

 

[Clarkjw2002]

Not sure on 76 days though, so far I have been QTing my corals for 35 days so will let you know if some day that turns on to not be long enough haha

Think 76 days comes from the longest the tomont has been found to remain dormant/viable. Would have to dig to verify. This is temperature dependent too so warmer temps shift the bell curve to the left timewise (faster).

I don't worry too much about corals, just remove the frag plug. Don't think tomonts would attach to living coral tissue--just dead skeleton. I've never had an issue. Just TTM and in for fish and coral dip/plug removal for corals and in. If there is bare skeleton I will QT for a month with weekly dips. Also, I run prazi on the second and fourth transfer for fish too as a preventive for GI parasites.

I think the fear of ich from corals is overrated unless you are buying from hobbyists who may have ich issues. Could be completely wrong though.

 

[Sharkbait19]

Think 76 days comes from the longest the tomont has been found to remain dormant/viable. Would have to dig to verify. This is temperature dependent too so warmer temps shift the bell curve to the left timewise (faster).

I don't worry too much about corals, just remove the frag plug. Don't think tomonts would attach to living coral tissue--just dead skeleton. I've never had an issue. Just TTM and in for fish and coral dip/plug removal for corals and in. If there is bare skeleton I will QT for a month with weekly dips. Also, I run prazi on the second and fourth transfer for fish too as a preventive for GI parasites.

I think the fear of ich from corals is overrated unless you are buying from hobbyists who may have ich issues. Could be completely wrong though.

Ich can attach to any hard surface, so the risk is there, but you are correct that it isn’t super frequent. Dipping corals before adding helps.

 

[Cool tangs]

Think 76 days comes from the longest the tomont has been found to remain dormant/viable. Would have to dig to verify. This is temperature dependent too so warmer temps shift the bell curve to the left timewise (faster).

I don't worry too much about corals, just remove the frag plug. Don't think tomonts would attach to living coral tissue--just dead skeleton. I've never had an issue. Just TTM and in for fish and coral dip/plug removal for corals and in. If there is bare skeleton I will QT for a month with weekly dips. Also, I run prazi on the second and fourth transfer for fish too as a preventive for GI parasites.

I think the fear of ich from corals is overrated unless you are buying from hobbyists who may have ich issues. Could be completely wrong though.

Thanks for sharing

Jay talks about the 76 day research on ich

45 Day Fallow periods

I've been doing some research into the "76 day fallow period". I never heard of that prior to coming to Reef2Reef this past summer. I had always used 32 days as the maximum time for a tomont to remain viable under tropical conditions, and then I would round up to 45 days to help ensure that...

www.reef2reef.com

I must of misread some were on the 35 days as it seems that 45 days is actually better to also get rid of flukes. Lucky my corals are still on QT, I'll tac on another 10 days

Happy reefing