Ick treatment using tank transfer method
- Thread starter Sgt Jonny
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I've been mulling over making a detailed but not too overwhelming video on this very subject. Giving people a mini rundown on the parasite life cycle is vital so they understand why the method works so effectively. Then showing how mixing all your saltwater at once and using 5 gal buckets can make it much less labor intensive.
Two points to consider (just for the sake of starting a conversation on this subject
):- Storing water from a recent DT water change can take the place of using all "new" saltwater to implement TTM, so long as you are sure your DT is disease free. This can alleviate the salt cost of doing TTM.
- I'm not a big fan of using 5 gal buckets to perform TTM, because it can be difficult to get a full view of the fish to inspect for other diseases (velvet, brook, bacterial infections, etc.) which TTM does not address. IMHO; Better to use a couple of 5 or 10 gal tanks so you can see the fish better.
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Sgt Jonny
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Good point. I would not use buckets either. I am actually a fan of copper treatment over the other 2.Two points to consider (just for the sake of starting a conversation on this subject
- Storing water from a recent DT water change can take the place of using all "new" saltwater to implement TTM, so long as you are sure your DT is disease free. This can alleviate the salt cost of doing TTM.
- I'm not a big fan of using 5 gal buckets to perform TTM, because it can be difficult to get a full view of the fish to inspect for other diseases (velvet, brook, bacterial infections, etc.) which TTM does not address. IMHO; Better to use a couple of 5 or 10 gal tanks so you can see the fish better.
spartanman22
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When doing the tank transfer method would you suggest using a product like Seachem prime? I'm not sure if ammonia develops within the 3 day time frame of transfers. I just started this with a new wrasse, and I'm unsure if I need to be using an ammonia absorber or not.
As long as you're not using any other chemicals that would create a toxic environment there's nothing wrong with adding Prime. I put it in during the second day of almost every transfer as a preventative. I try to target feed to keep waste to a minimum during TTM.
spartanman22
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Ok thanks for the help!
ReefCartel
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Very helpful video. What if I dont have a quarantine tank. Is there another method I can do if the fish is already infected and is swimming around my tank with the other fish? Ex: Medications I can add to the tank? Also, is there a dip solution before adding the fish in the tank similar to corals?
The only "reef safe" medication which has been proven to actually work is Prazipro (for deworming.) You can sometimes add medication (mainly antibiotics) to the fish's food, but these only treat bacterial infections and are not as effective as dosing in a QT. For external parasites (ich, velvet, brook, uronema), there is no reef safe treatment you can use and unfortunately external parasites are the most dangerous & frequently encountered diseases we face in this hobby. No dips either which ensure complete eradication.
If your fish is already infected swimming around with the other fish... You need to pull them all and treat and quarantine them all. While your treating them your tank needs to remain without any fish in it for 76 days to starve out the parasites. That amount of time is always in debate but it you want to be sure, and your going through the trouble to do this, then you should wait the full 76 days. I like to add, when you begin with successful quarantine, you'll be very surprised how long these fish will live happy lives for. Meaning your fish purchases will be much cheaper because you will only buy them once.
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Sgt Jonny
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Yes, if your display tank is infected with ick you need to remove them and put them into a hospital tank/quarantine tank to be treated. You can not use ick meds such as copper in your display tank because it will kill your live rock and invertebrates. You can keep your corals, shrimp, starfish etc in the tank as ick does not affect them. Keep the tank fishless for up to 72 days so the parasite starves, and treat the fish in quarantine. I prefer to use copper. Here is a video on setting up a quarantine tank. I hope t his helps.
ReefCartel
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Thanks for the info. First and foremost im probably going to send you some pics just to make sure its ich. All my other fishes look pretty good. Its just the powder tang. Not very noticeable but up close looks like bumps. Its not even white spots. Looks more like little bumps.
ReefCartel
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Ah dang I have like 5 Tangs in my tank. 2 of the tangs male and female pair i dont know the name of. Might need your help identifying
ReefCartel
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So if i need to pull out all 15 medium to large size fish. I need a QT of how many gallons? holy ****tt
ReefCartel
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ReefCartel
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They actually look okay today. Do spots go away and return?
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Sgt Jonny
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Yes the trophonts will fall off and seem like the ick is gone, only to return after the ick parasite hatches into more free swimmers infecting the fish again and again until they get overwhelmed. If you have ick, the fish need to be removed and the tank has to be fallow for 72 days. Beautiful tank by the way...
