Ick?

  • Thread starter Thread starter An ngo
  • Start date Start date
  • Tagged users None
As I check the symptom of velvet that the white spot will spread out after hours, but it has been 2 days but only few dots came up like my angel.y angel acting normal which same as my trigger except swimming opposite the flow. Does cooper treat both velvet and ich right??. Can I throw my fish after 1 days set up my QT?

Yes, copper treats both. Make sure you setup a biofilter in your QT preferably with biospira or another bacteria in a bottle.
 
Yes, copper treats both. Make sure you setup a biofilter in your QT preferably with biospira or another bacteria in a bottle.
I have bio spiral and seeded sponge. How long do you think I able to put my fish on. Should I ddo 30 days cooper treatment or 14. As the my current QT proccess, he said most of fish can not handle at 20-30 day of cooper treatment
 
As I check the symptom of velvet that the white spot will spread out after hours, but it has been 2 days but only few dots came up like my angel.y angel acting normal which same as my trigger except swimming opposite the flow. Does cooper treat both velvet and ich right??. Can I throw my fish after 1 days set up my QT?

Ok, it might just have been stuff in the water column I was seeing in the photos... hard to tell when your aren’t there looking at them in person :) I hope it is ich vs velvet, much easier to deal with!
 
Ok, it might just have been stuff in the water column I was seeing in the photos... hard to tell when your aren’t there looking at them in person :) I hope it is ich vs velvet, much easier to deal with!
Here is my pic from camera that my trigger swim at the corner all day long and has white dot on him. After 2 days, not too much but it still have some on fin and body. Based on velvet, my fish should be coated by white dot by now. I hate to deal with it when my whole tank jas infected

FE6AB48D-79ED-47E7-8A57-DCE33F8B9F37.jpeg
 
I have bio spiral and seeded sponge. How long do you think I able to put my fish on. Should I ddo 30 days cooper treatment or 14. As the my current QT proccess, he said most of fish can not handle at 20-30 day of cooper treatment

I have used biospira and added fish the same day to QT. I use a seachem ammonia badge and typically do a WC every 3-4 days to ensure Ammonia doesn’t become a problem. The caveat to that is I usually only QT one or two fish at a time (small bio load) and I use a 20G. With the size and number of fish you need to treat the larger tank 40-55G will be best.
 
Hi guys, here is my plan in case I can not take all the fish out mt DT, i will take all infected fish into my Qt. Those doesn’t sign of ich or velvet, i would leave them there but I will add cleaner wrasse and 2 cleaner shrimp to eat parasite. Is it work to get rid of ich?
 
Cleaner shrimp can help reduce numbers and "manage" ich, but they wont get rid of it completely. And a cleaner wrasse, if not QT'd, can actually introduce more parasites to the tank :/
 
The fish that don’t have spots will still have ich in their gills that you can’t see. If you leave any fish in the tank the fish you treat will just get reinfected when you put them back. Get a larger quarantine tank and pull all your fish. It will be annoying but it seems worth it given the number of fish you have
 
Ok, i would try to pull them out then. I haven’t treat and fish by cooper, so by the time i bring cooper to 1.75ppm. Do I need to dose after that or it will stay there. Does cooper level taise up?
 
This is a side note. This looks like a very clean tank. Are you putting all these fish into a new tank?
Ya this is new tank cycled after 2 months. Just put fish couple weeks ago. How donwe check if there are sand or ich on their body and fin?
 
Ya this is new tank cycled after 2 months. Just put fish couple weeks ago. How donwe check if there are sand or ich on their body and fin?
It is likely ich. Go with the advice above. I'd just watch how many new fish you put in your tank all at once. Especially since it is a new tank. You need to add fish a little at a time so that your tank can catch up with all the ammonia you are adding with each fish. If your water parameters are off, it will cause your fish to be stressed, which can increase the severity of ich or other various health issues. Stay on top of testing your water. But if you want to take care of this, listen to the folks who have already posted.
 
It is likely ich. Go with the advice above. I'd just watch how many new fish you put in your tank all at once. Especially since it is a new tank. You need to add fish a little at a time so that your tank can catch up with all the ammonia you are adding with each fish. If your water parameters are off, it will cause your fish to be stressed, which can increase the severity of ich or other various health issues. Stay on top of testing your water. But if you want to take care of this, listen to the folks who have already posted.
You’re right. My mistake is put too much at once which cause my bioload could not handle it. I follow those instructions above. Hope I take all my fishes out . Do i need to make WC during cooper treatment?
 
You’re right. My mistake is put too much at once which cause my bioload could not handle it. I follow those instructions above. Hope I take all my fishes out . Do i need to make WC during cooper treatment?
Most likely, yes. I would put an ammonia alert badge in the QT so that you can keep an eye on the ammonia... if even a hint of "green" rather than yellow, do a water change. Make sure to dose the new water with copper before adding it to the tank so that the copper level doesn't drop and allow the parasites to restart their cycle.

Also want to make sure you are testing your copper level frequently, with a test kit that is compatible with whichever form of copper you are using (ionic like Cupramine, or chelated like Copper Power) The type of copper you use also decides the therapeutic level you want to hold, ionic is .5-.6 and chelated is 2.0. Make sure to ramp up the copper level slowly, over several days to not shock the fish.

If you have any questions - just post here and we will try to help you through it!
 
Most likely, yes. I would put an ammonia alert badge in the QT so that you can keep an eye on the ammonia... if even a hint of "green" rather than yellow, do a water change. Make sure to dose the new water with copper before adding it to the tank so that the copper level doesn't drop and allow the parasites to restart their cycle.

Also want to make sure you are testing your copper level frequently, with a test kit that is compatible with whichever form of copper you are using (ionic like Cupramine, or chelated like Copper Power) The type of copper you use also decides the therapeutic level you want to hold, ionic is .5-.6 and chelated is 2.0. Make sure to ramp up the copper level slowly, over several days to not shock the fish.

If you have any questions - just post here and we will try to help you through it!
I would try to get copper power and hannah checker tonight in lfs. In case i couldn’t get all the fish at once, and put them into QT with initial cooper 1.00ppm. I will dose twice a day to bring it up in couple day. If at that time I able to scoop more fish from Dt, can I put them in Qt at 1.75 or I have to wait all fishes in and raise at once.

Second question. The cycle 30 day of copper method begin at the time copper level reach 1.75 or from the time I dose copper at 1.00ppm ??
 
Hi guys, just came to LFS to get copper and hanah testing kit, fish vitamin aquaforest fish v. I talk the owner of the store about my issue. The owner has 2 success tank with all rare fish. She told me that she had couple times face with ich om her tank, but she did water change more often. Let say 25% every 4 days to keep water clean and let fish less stress. She also recommended me to prepare qt with copper but do WC to see white spot went off ot not. If it get worse than move to QT. Is ich sometime went and gone if we keep water clean because she told me sometime it come to fishs but do WC will let it gone. What is your thought???. That what she did on her rare fish tank. Both are reef tank. One is sps and the other is mix reef
 
It's a management technique... you are trying to remove a large portion of the parasites by sucking out free-swimmers with frequent water changes. Vacuuming the sand bed thoroughly with each change will help with this as well. But, like the cleaner shrimp and other management techniques, it wont eradicate them fully- just help keep the population levels below "lethal".

Here's a discussion on management vs. eradication:
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ich-eradication-vs-ich-management.188775/
 
It's a management technique... you are trying to remove a large portion of the parasites by sucking out free-swimmers with frequent water changes. Vacuuming the sand bed thoroughly with each change will help with this as well. But, like the cleaner shrimp and other management techniques, it wont eradicate them fully- just help keep the population levels below "lethal".

Here's a discussion on management vs. eradication:
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ich-eradication-vs-ich-management.188775/
A good news when I come home and check my fish. White spot on my angel and wrasses all gone. Only few dot but not in the same spot. My trigger still have some on fin but body pretty clean which compare to yesterday. It may be sand but I will do some water change and prepare QT for the worse case
 
A good news when I come home and check my fish. White spot on my angel and wrasses all gone. Only few dot but not in the same spot. My trigger still have some on fin but body pretty clean which compare to yesterday. It may be sand but I will do some water change and prepare QT for the worse case

Well, keep in mind that the parasites drop off the fish as part of their life-cycle. Also the “spots” we see are just mucous at the insertion sites...not the parasites themselves.

They are still there, assuredly. But, I wish you luck!
 
Y
Well, keep in mind that the parasites drop off the fish as part of their life-cycle. Also the “spots” we see are just mucous at the insertion sites...not the parasites themselves.

They are still there, assuredly. But, I wish you luck!
I still need to do water change in case white sof show off again. Do fishes died after parasite drop off as part of their cycle ???
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%

New Posts

Back
Top