Same here.Mine is 400+ on city water.
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Same here.Mine is 400+ on city water.
Thanks. I'll have to find a place to have my water tested. I suspected that silica may be the issue along with low pH which is why I added the silica buster. I guess at this point I need to know what I'm dealing with rather than trial and error.Take a water sample to the local Ag extension and get a test of your water. I'm on a well and along with pH have basically nothing in my water except a TON of silica (along with super low pH). Letting that through would have been a nightmare.
FWIW I rune 5 Micron, 1 Micron, Carbon (just because), dual membrane, 1 Anion Resin, 1 Mixed bed Resin
You are correct, but I was thinking you may be treating your well water. If not, you could contact a supplier of DI resin and ask them. I also Ask google " What causes DI resin to exhaust quicker when using well water? " Ask BRS (bulk reef supply) They helped me. ( I do have a well, but now use it for sprinkler system) Good Luck!
https://www.aquaticlife.com/blog/how-co2-can-impact-di-resin-consumption/
Perhaps we could ask @Randy Holmes-Farley about the common fixes.
Edit also found one of azdesertrats
Post
https://www.thereeftank.com/forums/...-well-water-225980.html#/topics/225980?page=1
It’s a well documented problem.
I would think it has to be CO2. With a TDS before any filtration of 17, I can't think of anything else that would burn through resin.
My tap water (municipal water system) is 37 and my DI lasts a long, long time. My RO membrane is 6 years old and still producing 0-1 TDS (before it goes to DI).
Mine is 400+ on city water.
post it up for us picture people If you could please, snap a picture of your systempost it up for us picture people
I went through the same troubleshoot steps like yourself. Went to my cities website and downloaded the quality test report and yes the city use chloramines, next step was adding the silica buster, and then adding one more carbon canister. My answer was adding the buster pump to bring down the TDS.
Here is how my system is set up
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I am on well water and had the same problem. Now I run Ro water into a storage container, use air pump and stone to degas the water for 24 hours then run it through my DI. Yes, it is a pain with an extra step to do and takes a day longer to get the water, but this solved my problem. Now my DI last almost a year instead of 6 weeks. You get use to doing it this way after awhile and it is no big deal now.
I didn't reroute anything. That's a great observation. I'll have to look at that and see if I can change that. I read where I could swap out the canisters and didn't even thing about the fact that the RO comes after the carbon blocks. I feel pretty stupid. I'm trying to figure all this out on my own. I wish I'd purchased my RODI from spectrapure or buckeye hydro and gotten them to advise me from the start. The BRS seemed like a great deal but in hind sight not so much.you replaced the carbon block with DI resin?
did you also re-route how the water flows through the system? because now, it looks like you're running your water through your DI before going through your RO membrane.
J.
I didn't reroute anything. That's a great observation. I'll have to look at that and see if I can change that. I read where I could swap out the canisters and didn't even thing about the fact that the RO comes after the carbon blocks. I feel pretty stupid. I'm trying to figure all this out on my own. I wish I'd purchased my RODI from spectrapure or buckeye hydro and gotten them to advise me from the start. The BRS seemed like a great deal but in hind sight not so much.
Thanks!!you should have: sediment filter -> carbon -> RO -> DI, in that order.
J.
I also ran all the lines so that I would not be in the way of anything.Things happen and that is why we have a community for help.
The sell job for the RO/DI in the laundry is all the wastewater is used for laundryI also ran all the lines so that I would not be in the way of anything.
I'm scheming for a way to set up my water station in the laundry room!



Haha. For sure!!It may cost you![]()
I didn't reroute anything. That's a great observation. I'll have to look at that and see if I can change that. I read where I could swap out the canisters and didn't even thing about the fact that the RO comes after the carbon blocks. I feel pretty stupid. I'm trying to figure all this out on my own. I wish I'd purchased my RODI from spectrapure or buckeye hydro and gotten them to advise me from the start. The BRS seemed like a great deal but in hind sight not so much.
I went to BRS and found some data that may be pertinent to you configuration issue. Both of you carbon block stages come before the RO membrane, so I would remove DI resin from that location and add a stage after RO for your resin. Canister plus fittings ,one option or other similar additional stage. https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/reverse-osmosis-canisters.html
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/5-stage-premium-ro-di-system-bulk-reef-supply.html (FYI)

