But is that reef safe as well or it just won’t rust etc
Both.
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But is that reef safe as well or it just won’t rust etc
Im definitely open to other options i thought steel would rust in saltwater
Steel also takes longer to cool might also take longer to warm up giving it a bigger delay (not that we can’t account for this and shut it off before it gets too cold)
So this is a question for all of you with some knowledge on this
please elaborate or provide links etc not just a simple yes or no
Im looking into making a low power small chiller and want to use aluminum pipe or cooling blocks
so saltwater in direct contact to aluminum and then back into a reef tank
Ah
I figured out what you are trying to do.
Ill find the video for you.
Here it is. The Prof is feeding the lines to and from his model tank for the light. Don’t do that.
He does show how to waterproof the aluminum blocks. Pretty inventive and novel. Might actually work
Can use either cold water to do heat transfer. Or Peltier plate coolers
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Stainless steel still rusts in salt
It’s made to keep salt water off of it. Not itself out of salt
Most of it is Iron(with Cr and C), which turns into what in salt water,,,,?
Ferric Oxide (you know that as what?)
Titanium is reef safe in the proper alloy as evidenced by the large number of titanium heaters. Stainless steel comes in a wide array of alloys. Not all are rust resistant, only specific alloys. You can search suppliers data sheets for corrosion characteristics and their rating in salt water immersion. That said if your just prototyping...do the coil in a stainless(annealed) and then send that off to be reproduced for the final product. The few weeks it is in your tank will not likely cause harm as long as the proper alloy is selected. This will keep development cost down, especially if you end up making several iterations to find the ideal configuration. Just my .02
BTW, with stainless steel, corrosion resistance is greatly increased if it remains constantly submerged - either way its a specif stainless steel grade that should be used.
I bought a cheap stainless steel scraper off amazon years ago, it hardly has any rust stains on it - I am actually positively surprised as I didn't expect it to last for that low a cost.
Wish you luck
Show us how you did after you make these
PS. With the Peltier coolers, what would be the contraindication to just mounting to your sump glass?
Not only would it work,it's nearly the cleanest, least reactive material you could use. Borosilicate "Pyrex" laboratory glass can be easily customized to your size and shape requirements. Search for scientific glass blowing shops in your area. Stop in, in person and talk about what you want to do and I'll bet they will help you out cheaply.
If you were in my area id tell you to stop by my shop, I could have it for you in an hour or so. I've been a scientific glassblower for about 25 years and have countless custom mods or helping tools laying around for aquarium use.

GHL is about to release this very product which was shown at recent RAP NY much quieter and less power hungry than a chiller but not for huge tanks unless I guess you use multiple units.
Theirs is made out of specific SS alloy which is rated for contact with saltwater.
https://www.aquariumcomputer.com/products/ghl-cooling-technology/profilux-temperature-control2/
Will do if anything comes of it ill be making a video and post going into how everyone can make one on their own
I didn’t think of that because i wanted to keep it as far as you can (out of the stand) so the heat shouldn’t counter the cooling
The corrosion factor would be multiplied by the flow of water also
Interesting i was there but didn’t see it
Theirs looks extremely similar to what i had in mind
I had this idea for a couple years now ever since someone made a fridge out of a peltier and i remembered a post on diy fridge chillers and thought this would be really cost efficient electricity etc
It is very doable, btw
Here is one designed specifically to cool aquarium tank water
https://www.amazon.com/IceProbe-The...probe+chiller&qid=1561680798&s=gateway&sr=8-3
I was under the impression that chloride pitting (typical corrosion mechanism that you see in saltwater) is actually accelerated by stagnant water. 304 stainless isn't terrible with saltwater as long as the flow is VERY high, but if you leave 304 in stagnant saltwater, it rusts like crazy. 316L has much better resistance, but you will still see corrosion on parts that are in stagnant water. This corrosion tends to lead to oxidation (and rust!)
Aluminum will tend to form a pretty strong oxidation layer (Aluminum Oxide or Alumina) on the surface, but there are alloys of aluminum that tend to have better resistance. I still under the impression that chloride pitting is the main mechanism for corrosion.
Titanium is king here for metals in regards to oxidation resistance and corrosion resistance. Glass as some people mentioned is likely the cheapest GOOD solution (but also the most fragile).

