Is calcium reactor worth the buck?

[jda]

Probably like asking about a Lambo/Ferrari over a Corvette. Does it really matter much? Once is certianly better than the other in totality, but preference and where you are at in life matters more. Ever try and talk to a corvette guy? ...most think that there is no difference between it and a Lambo... none. They might be right for them. In the case of CaRx, you are not talking about a few hundo thousand dollars. If starting from scratch there is nearly no difference and also not much money difference if you can sell a Trident/Dos for good money still if it is in good shape.

Along with my metal halides, real live rock and sand and calcium reactors, I would probably quit the hobby if somebody made me quit using any of these - I just believe in the differences so much and also how they fit into my reefing paradigm. I have come a long way from dosing two decades ago. It also takes quite a breath and depth of experience to tell the difference - as a general rule of thumb, if you cannot tell the difference between a tank lit with MH vs LED, a Bose or Sonos stereo system vs a High end Tube Amp and Vinyl system, true film over digital print, or a Flagship type of foreign car over a Caddy or Lincoln, then it might not matter too much, but you could get there in the hobby and always get one later. I know that this is a terrible way to explain things, but the people who will get it will get it and I apologize in advance to those who do not.

 

[jmichaelh7]

Probably like asking about a Lambo/Ferrari over a Corvette. Does it really matter much? Once is certianly better than the other in totality, but preference and where you are at in life matters more. Ever try and talk to a corvette guy? ...most think that there is no difference between it and a Lambo... none. They might be right for them. In the case of CaRx, you are not talking about a few hundo thousand dollars. If starting from scratch there is nearly no difference and also not much money difference if you can sell a Trident/Dos for good money still if it is in good shape.

Along with my metal halides, real live rock and sand and calcium reactors, I would probably quit the hobby if somebody made me quit using any of these - I just believe in the differences so much and also how they fit into my reefing paradigm. I have come a long way from dosing two decades ago. It also takes quite a breath and depth of experience to tell the difference - as a general rule of thumb, if you cannot tell the difference between a tank lit with MH vs LED, a Bose or Sonos stereo system vs a High end Tube Amp and Vinyl system, true film over digital print, or a Flagship type of foreign car over a Caddy or Lincoln, then it might not matter too much, but you could get there in the hobby and always get one later. I know that this is a terrible way to explain things, but the people who will get it will get it and I apologize in advance to those who do not.

I’m considering selling my trident and dos.

I’m aiming for SPS dominant tank all over again and if it’s going to take a while to tune in the CaRx then I still have time to tune it in before SPS grow to the high demands.

 

[Dolphins18]

I am intimidated by a calcium reactor but plan to get one once my large buckets of 2 part run out.
I don't mind 2 part dosing on small tank but with growth on big ones a calcium reactor seems cheaper than 2 part over a 3-4 year period.

 

[MountainBorn]

Probably like asking about a Lambo/Ferrari over a Corvette. Does it really matter much? Once is certianly better than the other in totality, but preference and where you are at in life matters more. Ever try and talk to a corvette guy? ...most think that there is no difference between it and a Lambo... none. They might be right for them. In the case of CaRx, you are not talking about a few hundo thousand dollars. If starting from scratch there is nearly no difference and also not much money difference if you can sell a Trident/Dos for good money still if it is in good shape.

Along with my metal halides, real live rock and sand and calcium reactors, I would probably quit the hobby if somebody made me quit using any of these - I just believe in the differences so much and also how they fit into my reefing paradigm. I have come a long way from dosing two decades ago. It also takes quite a breath and depth of experience to tell the difference - as a general rule of thumb, if you cannot tell the difference between a tank lit with MH vs LED, a Bose or Sonos stereo system vs a High end Tube Amp and Vinyl system, true film over digital print, or a Flagship type of foreign car over a Caddy or Lincoln, then it might not matter too much, but you could get there in the hobby and always get one later. I know that this is a terrible way to explain things, but the people who will get it will get it and I apologize in advance to those who do not.

I once got in a conversation with someone at work about why I drove a pickup truck vs his bmw. I told him you can't carry a sheet of plywood in the bmw and he replied with some people like more refinement. So I understand your point.

How frequently did you need to adjust the output of the calcium reactor due to changes in demand in the tank? I would guess it was more frequent in the beginning and less over time?

 

[jda]

You have to have a pickup truck and a Genesis g90, says I. I can have both now, but that would have been harder years ago which is why timing and life events matter so much. Utility and cost aside, the people who can tell a difference in one thing can tell differences in others... But, I digress...

People who think that a CaRx is just linear have no experienced it yet, but will. They do need to be turned up from time to time, but how often depends on your tank. Let's say that my current tank dKh is about 6.2... this means that I need to turn up by CaRx. I will turn it up a tiny bit and over the next two weeks, the tank dKh might go up to 7.4-7.8 (whatever) where is stops eventually. It will then slowly start going down over the next few months based on a variety of factors - mostly what is growing. Once the tank dKh hits the mid 6's again, it is time to turn it up again. It takes weeks sometimes to see things settle, which is why it is so hard to crash a tank with a CaRx without huge human error.

This is no different than having to up your dosing MLs... it needs to happen if stuff is growing. I mostly find that coralline will use the most, then clams and then my acropora... maybe the clams and acropora are tied, but the coralline is definitely more. I once had a nasty infestation of vermitelid snails that I could tell use up some extra alk and stuff, but they all eventually died and I have no idea why. In any case, how much you have to turn it up is tank dependet. It is easy to turn up - you just keep the same magic ratio that you have by turning up BOTH the effluent and co2 bubbles at the same time. I don't care for the method of just turning down the co2 regulator since this gets less efficient and even moreso over time.

 

[cocoReefer]

I once got in a conversation with someone at work about why I drove a pickup truck vs his bmw. I told him you can't carry a sheet of plywood in the bmw and he replied with some people like more refinement. So I understand your point.

How frequently did you need to adjust the output of the calcium reactor due to changes in demand in the tank? I would guess it was more frequent in the beginning and less over time?

For me, my demand is currently rising. I test kh/calc about once a week. If it is low, i will adjust and test every couple days. When it stays for a few sets of testing ill go back to once a week. And alot of the time ill just test the kh while adjusting, and calcium on the same weekly checkup.
Ive even gone once a month on occasion between test, and the changes are not huge.
If im ever off more than i like, i will do a water change that day as a buffer/reset. But thats not common over the years

 

[jda]

I will say that I find keeping a totally stable alk to be fools gold. It is OK if it goes up and down over a few months, but I try and avoid daily swings and stuff. If mine wanders between 6 and 8 over a few months, then I am OK with this.

 

[jmichaelh7]

So if I’m correct I’ll need the reactor , co2 tank, regulator , and if the reactor already comes with a pump then use that one otherwise I need another pump. This reef octopus connect to Neptune apex? Can someone share their experience with Neptune

 

[X-37B]

So if I’m correct I’ll need the reactor , co2 tank, regulator , and if the reactor already comes with a pump then use that one otherwise I need another pump. This reef octopus connect to Neptune apex? Can someone share their experience with Neptune

Take a look at the 3172 Tunze carx. It does not require a feed pump.
I ran the smaller one on my 120 and am going to put it on my 45.
It has a ph port if you go that route which can be setup with the Apex.

 

[DCR]

There are a couple of used Koralins on ebay right now for a similar price. They are likely better quality.

 

[jda]

I like Korallins the best since the trap co2 in the top to let you know that you have a bad tune. They also use Eheim pumps which can run dry if your reactor fills too much with co2 or air with a leak. Small things, and I would literally be happy with one of a few dozen different kinds... so mostly nits.

It looks like using crushed coral might be the only way to get natural aragonite for the near future. This is no big deal and how people did it in the past, but reverse flow will be best for this. Larger hunk calcite is available and works fine and I do not yet have an opinion of the other traces in calcite vs aragonite... either they are very close or it does not matter that they are not.

I do not use a pH probe, so that does not matter to me.

Don't forget a good check valve on the co2 line. Nothing can ruin your day like some saltwater getting into the guts of your nice new regulator and rusting it from the inside out.

 

[jmichaelh7]

I just sold all of my apex equipment (trident, dos, ddr, etc) to get funds for a calcium reactor setup.

Any one selling their setup?

 

[Borat]

A 2 stage reactor allows you to run your co2 tank until empty. It maintains a constant pressure and is preffered over a single stage.
Research them as their is much info on them.
This is my 2 stage regulator and contrary to what many think they are simple to setup and run.

The above talks about 2 stage regulator (not 2 stage reactor). 2 stage regulator allows you to better control bubble count (nothing to do with running CO2 tank until empty).

Now speaking of 2 stage reactor: it would have 2 chambers primary and secondary (usually secondary chamber is smaller). Secondary chamber is for de-gassing (higher PH) and to have higher DKH of effluent. People put coarse media in the primary chamber and fine media in the secondary chamber (I have coarse media in both chambers however)...

I run a DIY 2-stage reactor (4L each chamber, total 8 litres volume) but honestly - it's an overkill in most situations. The only reason I would want to have a 2 stage reactor is if you have a massive tank - 2 stage reactor allows you to have more media - and thus top up/fiddle with media less often.

 

[FishTruck]

Calcium reactors are great, you just need to understand what is important about them and not go crazy with pH controllers and peristaltic pumps.

The only thing that really matters is that you can deliver a steady dose of CO2 to your media with a reasonably stable effluent flow. Through some patience, you will figure out the ALK needs of your tank. So long as the CO2 is steady, tight control of the pH inside the reactor is not necessary, nor is tight control of the effluent flow rate. Once dialed in in this way, they can run for months without adjustments, dosing, or adding media - just monitor the ALK of your tank.

If you need to use a pH probe, use it only to shut down the reactor for a really low pH (shut down until you unclog the effluent tubing, not to turn it on and off).

 

[jmichaelh7]

The above talks about 2 stage regulator (not 2 stage reactor). 2 stage regulator allows you to better control bubble count (nothing to do with running CO2 tank until empty).

2 stage reactor has 2 chambers: primary and secondary. Secondary chamber is for de-gassing (higher PH) and to have higher DKH of effluent.

I run a DIY 2-stage reactor (3.5L each chamber, total 7 litres volume) but honestly - it's an overkill in most situations. The only reason I would have 2 stage reactor is if you have a massive tank - 2 stage reactor allows you to have more media - and thus top up/fiddle with media less often.

I was just going to ask but i think that answered my question.

Is the second chamber worth the buck? if you dont run it would you really see a difference in pH

I mean for the price, is it better to go with the second chamber?

As for the regulator. I see there is one electronic regulator priced at around $399. Is that necessary, or do most of you get away with the standard regulator??

 

[Borat]

The above talks about 2 stage regulator (not 2 stage reactor). 2 stage regulator allows you to better control bubble count (nothing to do with running CO2 tank until empty).

Now speaking of 2 stage reactor: it would have 2 chambers primary and secondary (usually secondary chamber is smaller). Secondary chamber is for de-gassing (higher PH) and to have higher DKH of effluent. People put coarse media in the primary chamber and fine media in the secondary chamber (I have coarse media in both chambers however)...

I run a DIY 2-stage reactor (4L each chamber, total 8 litres volume) but honestly - it's an overkill in most situations. The only reason I would want to have a 2 stage reactor is if you have a massive tank - 2 stage reactor allows you to have more media - and thus top up/fiddle with media less often.

It would probably take me 5 years before I would have to replace my media - 8L CaRx is probably sutable for tanks up to 400gL. My tank is only 100g.

 

[jmichaelh7]

It would probably take me 5 years before I would have to replace my media - 8L CaRx is probably sutable for tanks up to 400gL. My tank is only 100g.

I'm searching for CaRx online. All i'm finding is media

 

[FishTruck]

I was always fine with a standard valve regulator (not electronic).

The point is that you get one that at a minimum holds a constant pressure before the bubble counter - so that your CO2 delivery won't diminish with the CO2 pressure in your tank. The better ones, allow you to adjust this pressure, the cheaper 99 dollar ones just hold it at a factory set psi (like 6 or 8 psi for example).

Some reactors recommend a certain CO2 pressure, so if you don't know, get one that can be adjusted. My last regulator lasted about 12 years.

The also make electronic bubble controllers, which are nice, but, pricey and a little finicky.

 

[Borat]

I was just going to ask but i think that answered my question.

Is the second chamber worth the buck? if you dont run it would you really see a difference in pH

I mean for the price, is it better to go with the second chamber?

As for the regulator. I see there is one electronic regulator priced at around $399. Is that necessary, or do most of you get away with the standard regulator??

I am from UK - not US, but I know that typically your goodies cost the same quantity of money as here except 1pound is worth about 1.36 USD (and so your goodies are about 25% cheaper).

$399 looks quite expensive. I paid £120 for my 2-stage regulator here in the UK. I would ask around before buying.

Ask other people's opinion about second stage as well. I have 2 PH probes controlled by a controller. I use rowalith media, which means I have to drive it really hard (PH 6.0). PH difference between primary and secondary chamber is only 0.1PH in my case (so secondary shows 6.1). It's good to have more - but I don't think it's worth the money (my personal opinion). Secondary chamber also takes space.

 

[PeterC99]

I'm searching for CaRx online. All i'm finding is media

Definitely look for a good condition used one for a great price. They are pretty basic so there is not a significant differences between brands and should last a long time.

Also get the second chamber. Degases the CO2 and helps get back some pH back for your aquarium. Otherwise you are dumping really low pH effluent back into aquarium.