Depends on the supplier, at Walmart each bottle with 2.0 g (enough for 100 liters), costs $ 17.22
https://www.goodrx.com/desferal
https://www.goodrx.com/desferal
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Depends on the supplier, at Walmart each bottle with 2.0 g (enough for 100 liters), costs $ 17.22
https://www.goodrx.com/desferal
I do not know the sanitary legislation of the USA, I would not know, but here in Brazil it is classified with "red stripe", subject medical prescription.Presumably that is prescription only, at least in the US?
Iron-chelating resins in a reactor could make good iron cleaning in the water column, but would not reach iron deposits on substrates and rocks, which is where problems usually develop. The advantage of a water-soluble chelating agent is that it goes where the iron is and binds it, rendering it unavailable, although physically it remains there.There are many iron chealating resins that could be used as a media. Have to look into it.
I don't think that is even remotely true. OK, yes, views do get parroted by novice reefers without direct experience, but there are plenty of long-timers that have used UV and concluded it is not worth the cost and effort. I don't personally happen to agree, and I do run an oversized unit on my system at flow levels that are intended for parasite reduction; but I also have reasonable expectations for what it will and won't do.
But honestly I am an avid uv sterilizer reefer and literally every time someone starts to discuss/argument with me about it being a waste of time, that person has never had experience with one. I'm sure there are people out there that have used one correctly and don't like it, but so far I have no encountered one in 10 years and change (I'm pretty sure you've been reefing longer from a previous discussion so I'm not saying 10 years to say I've been in it a long time. Just 10 years of saying I like using a uv and getting the response it doesn't work effectively and why is a long time to be not have encountered one person that actually used it correctly and didn't like it).
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My main reason to not use a UV is that I did not want to kill the bacteria that are present in the water. I choose to increase them with organic carbon dosing, and I'd prefer those that are suspended in the water to be skimmed out or eaten whole by various organisms, rather than break apart after passing through a UV, spilling their guts back into the water.![]()
I'm not a fan of UV usage outside of fix-it cases, but...
My impression is that UV is a lot more of an egg-scrambler than an egg-breaker or egg-popper...if you follow me. I thought it "just" mutated their DNA?
Would cell leakage really have been a significant problem? Seems like the UV filter's output could even be directed right to a skimmer inlet if needed. Do we know a lot about what difference UV could actually make?
(And aren't bacteria naturally leaky to begin with?)
I have always thought that the best way to fight algae is to control nutrients. Using these methods Ive lowered phosphate and nitrate to zero of very low and found that within weeks most of my coral were either bleached or dead. I started researching further and it turns out that coral actually like nutrients very much even many recent articles have shown that the old (0 nitrate 0 phos algae control) might be a terrible idea for a reef tank. Here is one good example:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5441187/#!po=46.2121
I think reefkeepers have been caught up on the idea that the pristine reefs dont have ANY algae and it is a pest that shouldnt be there.. However if you take a closer look at any reef you will see that there are 100s of billions of herbivores there in the same habitat that the coral is growing in. Therefore it should be obvious that all of these grazers are eating something and that the reefs pristine water isnt what prevents algae from growing.
Basically Ive heard this problem 1000s of times: "i have so much algae its taking over my tank" and response 2 is always "How is your nutrient control?" When in fact the correct response probably should be "how is your clean up crew?"
Not even a few years ago the goal in reef keeping was to keep nitrates at zero.. But now we are seeing that many of the most successful tanks have 10-20 or even higher nitrates.
in phytoplankton is 106C:16N:1P, while bethnic plants (mean of 92 species) on average have a somewhat higher ratio of 550C:30N:1P. These ratios indicate that many seaweeds are more prone to N limitation than phytoplankton.
ratio for seaweeds is 30N:1P with a range from 10:1 to 80:1In regards to the redfield ratio is not a regulator for how much of each nitrient any particular organism takes up.
The atomic ratio C:Nin phytoplankton is 106C:16N:1P, while bethnic plants (mean of 92 species) on average have a somewhat higher ratio of 550C:30N:1P. These ratios indicate that many seaweeds are more prone to N limitation than phytoplankton.
The ratio of two nutrients that is required for maximal growth of a seaweed is called the optimum ratio. As stated above, the average Nratio for seaweeds is 30N:1P with a range from 10:1 to 80:1
http://sailing-sea-farm.com/onewebme...v%C3%A6kst.pdf
Analysis of the annually-averaged 2001–2010 monthly nutrient data from 13 stations in the Venice Lagoon (Italy) shows that the concentrations of dissolved nitrogen (N) species, measured as total dissolved N (TDN), have increased over time while that of phosphorus (P) species, measured as total dissolved P (TDP) have decreased. During the study period, the TDN/TDP ratio in the lagoon rose from about 46:1 to 100:1 (by atoms), a level at which the growth of benthic macroalgae is favored over that of sea grasses.
http://levin.ucsd.edu/people/photos/...V180_33-41.pdf
ratio of 10:1 does this mean that an other not wanted algae with a N
ratio of 16:1 will be growth limited when the N
ratio in the water is kept at 10:1? Or is it the way that algae is able to use and store N or P ? Where does the N come from? From NH3, NH4, NO2 or NO3 to name some Nitrogen sources. How important is the nitrogen source used? Maybe the algae needing a ratio of 16:1 can provide its nitrogen starting at a much lower level or has more effective pathways to use the different nitrogen sources and will reach its 16 to 1 ratio much faster as the other may reach a ratio of 10 to 1? We consider fast growing algae as a nuisance . For example: when we remove ammonia fast using an effective bio filter transforming the ammonia into nitrate, will this limit algae growth or activate it? Will it favour certain types of algae and or limit the growth of others ?My main reason to not use a UV is that I did not want to kill the bacteria that are present in the water. I choose to increase them with organic carbon dosing, and I'd prefer those that are suspended in the water to be skimmed out or eaten whole by various organisms, rather than break apart after passing through a UV, spilling their guts back into the water.![]()
In reading articles on coral nutrition on a wild reef, it is evident that bacteria transfer food from one food web to another. As the author points out > 60% of reef food is tied up in the microbial loop. Even after feeding heavy, I still add ammonia to keep up with demand of biofilter. With this type of a mature biofilter, would bacteria “spilling their guts” be another form of nutrient dosing?
Laissez les bonne temps roulee,
Patrick

https://www.researchgate.net/public...goon_2001-2010_and_its_relation_to_macroalgaeThe second link does not work for me.

