Is that DI attachment or I got scammed?

First off, that box says it's for drinking water. That's a filter for attachment to your sink so you can use it to filter your water. At least that's what the box says.
Secondly, if you just took that out of the box and I saw some DI resin on the end of it around the seals, that's used. Definitely not brand new. I would take that crap back in order from BRS the di unit that was mentioned earlier.
Alright. I finally was able to test it. And explain the whole box situation thingy. So basically yes that box was wrong. My lfs said they ship it in a different box so it does not get damaged. There was a dealing cap at the top of the canister. That resin could be from shipping too much bumps, or when I opened the cap while I was unboxing it some came out. Anyway. I was able to attach it to my previous RO unit, and test it. All good. Now obviously for next time. I'm not going to buy the same unit from that LFS since it was unecessary expensive, and u can't change the resin. So Ill take the previous suggestion on that. But for now after making it run for 30 min I was able to get 0.

20220227_075459.jpg
 
A lot depends on the source water... I've had source water measure in the low teens for TDS and in that case a RO alone is enough to get zero. I still use DI filter but the resin lasts a couple of years easily.
Yeah, I get that. My water source is about 45 TDS. The rejection rate on the membrane is say 95%. Not zero TDS out of the membrane. Even if you have 15 TDS, 95% rejection rate it's still not zero TDS. Is it usable? Maybe, probably.
 
Alright. I finally was able to test it. And explain the whole box situation thingy. So basically yes that box was wrong. My lfs said they ship it in a different box so it does not get damaged. There was a dealing cap at the top of the canister. That resin could be from shipping too much bumps, or when I opened the cap while I was unboxing it some came out. Anyway. I was able to attach it to my previous RO unit, and test it. All good. Now obviously for next time. I'm not going to buy the same unit from that LFS since it was unecessary expensive, and u can't change the resin. So Ill take the previous suggestion on that. But for now after making it run for 30 min I was able to get 0.

20220227_075459.jpg
That fat end (bottom) doesn't wind off? If it does you can likely refill it with new resin when yours is exhausted.
 
That fat end (bottom) doesn't wind off? If it does you can likely refill it with new resin when yours is exhausted.
Probably shouldn't try that out until the cartridge is spent anyway... No sense in wasting the thing that was already overpriced
 
@Dburr1014 I have 87 tds tap water, with a new membrane and 3 RODI PRE FILTERS, yes, I can get zero tds. I have what's called tds meters before and after my membrane that even tells me what they are. I'm sorry you don't understand that.

Not sure what link you want? Why is it unbelievable that someone can get zero tds without DI?
 
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@Dburr1014 I have 87 tds tap water, with a new membrane and 3 RODI PRE FILTERS, yes, I can get zero tds. I have what's called tds meters before and after my membrane that even tells me what they are. I'm sorry you don't understand that.

Not sure what link you want? Why is it unbelievable that someone can get zero tds without DI?
Okay, perhaps you are.
I guess it's the language you are using that is confusing, sorry.
A prefilter is not an rodi prefilter. The rodi stands for reverse osmosis / deionized. If you don't have a di stage then rodi prefilter makes no sense.
Call a prefilter a carbon block or 10 micron filter.
Call a membrane a membrane not a rodi membrane. DI does not need to be in the sentence at all when talking about a membrane. I was confused about what you were saying.
That's all, semantics.

BTW, you should still use di cartridge.
 
I'll be more specific next time ;) and I still do use one. I was merely stating that my meter tells me both and I can go about 12-14 months reading and testing zero before the di stage.

What water are you filtering, well water? Even the most basic RO membrane and three pre filter stages (carbon, sediment, whatever else) should be able to get you to zero if not for just a little while.
 

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