Is this 2 ppm or 5 ppm?

DeadEnd

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Ok, i give up.

I don't know what color it is... 2 ppm or 5ppm? The picture has flash, is that ok?

Help!

20220912_190834.jpg
 
It looks closer to 2 to me, but ultimately it doesn’t really matter. I assume it’s a cycling tank, just give it some more time and it’ll convert it to nitrate.
 
It looks closer to 2 to me, but ultimately it doesn’t really matter. I assume it’s a cycling tank, just give it some more time and it’ll convert it to nitrate.
Ok thanks man! This color tests are tough lol
 
Based on the photo I'd say 2.
But more importantly, what are your ammonia and nitrates at?
Thanks! Ammonia is at 0.5 and nitrates at 10-20 ppm. I was thinking about feeding some ammonia to the bacteria but I didn't know if It was ok to do with high nitrites.. (Fishless Cycle)
 
Ok thanks man! This color tests are tough lol
The color tests are a pain. You don’t get an exact number but they’ll give you a ballpark number. Also, the api tests aren’t very good, although with nitrites it doesn’t really matter. The important thing is that your tank can get rid of ammonia.
 
Thanks! Ammonia is at 0.5 and nitrates at 10-20 ppm. I was thinking about feeding some ammonia to the bacteria but I didn't know if It was ok to do with high nitrites.. (Fishless Cycle)
The api test is notorious for showing ammonia when there isn’t any. My mature tank will still show between .25 and .5 with the api ammonia test.
 
The color tests are a pain. You don’t get an exact number but they’ll give you a ballpark number. Also, the api tests aren’t very good, although with nitrites it doesn’t really matter. The important thing is that your tank can get rid of ammonia.
The api test is notorious for showing ammonia when there isn’t any. My mature tank will still show between .25 and .5 with the api ammonia test.
Wow I knew they were bad but I didn't know they were that bad. So I guess I should stick to Dr Tim guide and add some ammonia.

Thanks for the help!
 
The color tests are a pain. You don’t get an exact number but they’ll give you a ballpark number. Also, the api tests aren’t very good, although with nitrites it doesn’t really matter. The important thing is that your tank can get rid of ammonia.
I respectfully beg to differ. API tests, done properly, are very good. The issue is that they aren't intended to be as precise as some other test kits. As stated, they will give you a range, not a specific value. They are, however, reliable for what they are designed to do.
 
I respectfully beg to differ. API tests, done properly, are very good. The issue is that they aren't intended to be as precise as some other test kits. As stated, they will give you a range, not a specific value. They are, however, reliable for what they are designed to do.
IMO of the master test kit the nitrate test is decent as long as you’re not running low nitrates, I had to switch tests because I was staying below 5 at the time and couldn’t tell a difference between 0 and 2. The pH test is decent as well, the nitrite test is pointless.

The Ammonia test is the one that I have a huge problem with. I have seen way to many threads where reefers have overreacted because the test shows ammonia present in their cycled tanks.

For me there are better options that don’t cost too much more, aka salifert.
 
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Wow I knew they were bad but I didn't know they were that bad. So I guess I should stick to Dr Tim guide and add some ammonia.

Thanks for the help!
I’m not sure I’d make any changes this early in.
Those initial numbers are fine.
Let it take its course.
 
I respectfully beg to differ. API tests, done properly, are very good. The issue is that they aren't intended to be as precise as some other test kits. As stated, they will give you a range, not a specific value. They are, however, reliable for what they are designed to do.
I mostly agree, my issue with the API tests (and others) is that they rely on subjective observation of color. We all see color differently, and we even see variation in the way we see color, based on conditions.
 
I mostly agree, my issue with the API tests (and others) is that they rely on subjective observation of color. We all see color differently, and we even see variation in the way we see color, based on conditions.
And the digital tests can be quiet expensive. (I know... Everything in this hobby is expensive)
 
And the digital tests can be quiet expensive. (I know... Everything in this hobby is expensive)
I highly recommend a Red Sea marine care test kit as an upgrade from api. That’s the route I went anyway. I found them much easier to read the colors and much more exact. Eventually I moved up to the Hannah for phosphates, nitrate and alk.
 

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