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Ok thanks man! This color tests are tough lolIt looks closer to 2 to me, but ultimately it doesn’t really matter. I assume it’s a cycling tank, just give it some more time and it’ll convert it to nitrate.
It looks a little closer to 2.4 to me.
Thanks! Ammonia is at 0.5 and nitrates at 10-20 ppm. I was thinking about feeding some ammonia to the bacteria but I didn't know if It was ok to do with high nitrites.. (Fishless Cycle)Based on the photo I'd say 2.
But more importantly, what are your ammonia and nitrates at?
The color tests are a pain. You don’t get an exact number but they’ll give you a ballpark number. Also, the api tests aren’t very good, although with nitrites it doesn’t really matter. The important thing is that your tank can get rid of ammonia.Ok thanks man! This color tests are tough lol
The api test is notorious for showing ammonia when there isn’t any. My mature tank will still show between .25 and .5 with the api ammonia test.Thanks! Ammonia is at 0.5 and nitrates at 10-20 ppm. I was thinking about feeding some ammonia to the bacteria but I didn't know if It was ok to do with high nitrites.. (Fishless Cycle)
The color tests are a pain. You don’t get an exact number but they’ll give you a ballpark number. Also, the api tests aren’t very good, although with nitrites it doesn’t really matter. The important thing is that your tank can get rid of ammonia.
Wow I knew they were bad but I didn't know they were that bad. So I guess I should stick to Dr Tim guide and add some ammonia.The api test is notorious for showing ammonia when there isn’t any. My mature tank will still show between .25 and .5 with the api ammonia test.
I respectfully beg to differ. API tests, done properly, are very good. The issue is that they aren't intended to be as precise as some other test kits. As stated, they will give you a range, not a specific value. They are, however, reliable for what they are designed to do.The color tests are a pain. You don’t get an exact number but they’ll give you a ballpark number. Also, the api tests aren’t very good, although with nitrites it doesn’t really matter. The important thing is that your tank can get rid of ammonia.
IMO of the master test kit the nitrate test is decent as long as you’re not running low nitrates, I had to switch tests because I was staying below 5 at the time and couldn’t tell a difference between 0 and 2. The pH test is decent as well, the nitrite test is pointless.I respectfully beg to differ. API tests, done properly, are very good. The issue is that they aren't intended to be as precise as some other test kits. As stated, they will give you a range, not a specific value. They are, however, reliable for what they are designed to do.
I’m not sure I’d make any changes this early in.Wow I knew they were bad but I didn't know they were that bad. So I guess I should stick to Dr Tim guide and add some ammonia.
Thanks for the help!
I mostly agree, my issue with the API tests (and others) is that they rely on subjective observation of color. We all see color differently, and we even see variation in the way we see color, based on conditions.I respectfully beg to differ. API tests, done properly, are very good. The issue is that they aren't intended to be as precise as some other test kits. As stated, they will give you a range, not a specific value. They are, however, reliable for what they are designed to do.
And the digital tests can be quiet expensive. (I know... Everything in this hobby is expensive)I mostly agree, my issue with the API tests (and others) is that they rely on subjective observation of color. We all see color differently, and we even see variation in the way we see color, based on conditions.
I highly recommend a Red Sea marine care test kit as an upgrade from api. That’s the route I went anyway. I found them much easier to read the colors and much more exact. Eventually I moved up to the Hannah for phosphates, nitrate and alk.And the digital tests can be quiet expensive. (I know... Everything in this hobby is expensive)

