noticed one of my Royal grammas dead this morning the hermits got to him chopped him up a bit I looked at the body didn't see anything that looked abnormal then I was looking at my other fish and idk If I'm being paranoid but is this ich on my clowns
Is this ich
- Thread starter johnsamm7
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steve&mari
Blessed Reefer
Kinda looks like it but I'm not a disease expert lets see if others agree @Meredith @Humblefish please chime in with help.
domination2580
Reef-a-nator
It kind of looks like the starting of brook in a way with how many spots are growing on his back. Are there any sympotoms? Swimming in the powerhead, scraping on rocks, difficulty breathing?
domination2580
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I would get him in qt asap and treat for brook. Im fairly sure its brook. Use formalin for a treatment plan.
domination2580
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DO NOT PUT THE MANDARIN in
domination2580
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Mandarins don't do well in meds.
domination2580
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[HASHTAG]#reefsquad[/HASHTAG]
domination2580
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I'm pretty sure it is brook but I'm getting some more eyes on this thread
domination2580
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You cod do a freshwater dip to relieve the clown. You site he's not breathing hard?
domination2580
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How long has he had these? Does he look really slimy?
domination2580
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Like a mucous coat bigger than normal?
^^This: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/brooklynella.247938/
Although velvet is possible as well: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/velvet-amyloodinium-ocellatum.217570/
Either way, following this protocol will take care of both (and ich too if you use copper or CP): https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/velvet-amyloodinium-ocellatum.217570/#post-2499437
domination2580
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I figured formalin would have been a good choice. Didnt even think about copper or cp.
domination2580
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No they will be fine. They wont handle the copper
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johnsamm7
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So which method do u guys think would work the best this is my first time doin this kinda thing I'm pretty new to the hobby any advice and instruction would help a lot thanks for all the input so far
domination2580
Reef-a-nator
I would use humbles method mentioned in his post earlier.
At the very least, I'd give the clownfish a FW dip (see below).
Freshwater Dip: Provides temporary relief for Brooklynella, Flukes & "Black Ich", Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium); possibly even Ich & Uronema marinum (both unproven). Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes.
How To Treat - Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up.
Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.
For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well.
Pros - Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.
Cons/Side Effects - Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not potent enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.
Freshwater Dip: Provides temporary relief for Brooklynella, Flukes & "Black Ich", Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium); possibly even Ich & Uronema marinum (both unproven). Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes.
How To Treat - Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up.
Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.
For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well.
Pros - Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.
Cons/Side Effects - Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not potent enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.
