Is this ick?

swindigity

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Snap some more photos if you can. These aren’t bad photos, I can see what you mean, but the more photos the better.
 

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@Jay Hemdal @vetteguy53081 #fishmedic
The people I just put above are great at dealing with fish emergencies. I have surprisingly never dealt with ick, but I know of people who use polyguard. Understand that while some advocate for using copper, it will harm inverts and coral, and may further stress out the fish.
 
These are mucus cones and likely begun with skin issues and mixed in with ich. You will need to place the fish in a sizeable quarantine tank and treat with coppersafe or Copper Power at therapeutic level 2.25-2.5 For a FULL 30 days (do not interrupt this 30 day period) monitored by a reliable Copper Test kit such as Hanna Brand- No API brand. Also monitor Ammonia levels while in quarantine with a reliable test kit and add aeration during treatment using an air stone.
The display tank will have to be kept fishless (FALLOW) for 6-8 weeks to assure the existing parasites go through their life cycle without a host fish and die off and with occupants exposed, they too should go into quarantine
 
These are mucus cones and likely begun with skin issues and mixed in with ich. You will need to place the fish in a sizeable quarantine tank and treat with coppersafe or Copper Power at therapeutic level 2.25-2.5 For a FULL 30 days (do not interrupt this 30 day period) monitored by a reliable Copper Test kit such as Hanna Brand- No API brand. Also monitor Ammonia levels while in quarantine with a reliable test kit and add aeration during treatment using an air stone.
The display tank will have to be kept fishless (FALLOW) for 6-8 weeks to assure the existing parasites go through their life cycle without a host fish and die off and with occupants exposed, they too should go into quarantine
Yep...
 
Yes it is, and you need to take action quickly If you want to save this fish. Unfortunately the only cures are not reef safe, so you will need to get a quarantine going asap. It can be another aquarium, or even a big cooler or Rubbermaid.
 
These are mucus cones and likely begun with skin issues and mixed in with ich. You will need to place the fish in a sizeable quarantine tank and treat with coppersafe or Copper Power at therapeutic level 2.25-2.5 For a FULL 30 days (do not interrupt this 30 day period) monitored by a reliable Copper Test kit such as Hanna Brand- No API brand. Also monitor Ammonia levels while in quarantine with a reliable test kit and add aeration during treatment using an air stone.
The display tank will have to be kept fishless (FALLOW) for 6-8 weeks to assure the existing parasites go through their life cycle without a host fish and die off and with occupants exposed, they too should go into quarantine
Correct me if I'm wrong, but the OP could also use a UV sterilizer.
 
They do help to manage Ich! This is way beyond being able to manage though.
I had meant after the OP removed all the fish, they could UV sterilize the tank to get rid of the Ick. Like I said before, I have thankfully never had to deal with ick, so this information is from other hobbyists.
 
Correct me if I'm wrong, but the OP could also use a UV sterilizer.
UV will address what is free-floating and not erase it from a given fish. Once fish has parasites, treatments are the best option
 
I had meant after the OP removed all the fish, they could UV sterilize the tank to get rid of the Ick. Like I said before, I have thankfully never had to deal with ick, so this information is from other hobbyists.
Simple fallow period will work as it will cause the protozoans to die without a host fish for reproduction
 
Just to reiterate what @vetteguy53081 said - this is a severe case of ich, mixed in with some mucus plugs. Ich management isn't going to work at this stage of the infection. Hyposalinity or coppersafe (no invertebrates present of course!) are your two best options.
 
What’s the best way to treat him the yellow tang doesn’t have any spots
You will get much conflicting advice based on hobby observation. I suggest you go the route bases on the parasite’s life cycle and scientific research, being ich or some other parasite it is the same. Remove all fish, qt, and treat fish; fallow DT. The tank has the parasite and every fish in it. Not sure but the fish disease section should give the proper treatment which must involve fallowing the DT.
 
These are mucus cones and likely begun with skin issues and mixed in with ich. You will need to place the fish in a sizeable quarantine tank and treat with coppersafe or Copper Power at therapeutic level 2.25-2.5 For a FULL 30 days (do not interrupt this 30 day period) monitored by a reliable Copper Test kit such as Hanna Brand- No API brand. Also monitor Ammonia levels while in quarantine with a reliable test kit and add aeration during treatment using an air stone.
The display tank will have to be kept fishless (FALLOW) for 6-8 weeks to assure the existing parasites go through their life cycle without a host fish and die off and with occupants exposed, they too should go into quarantin

Yes it is, and you need to take action quickly If you want to save this fish. Unfortunately the only cures are not reef safe, so you will need to get a quarantine going asap. It can be another aquarium, or even a big cooler or Rubbermaid.
How long do I have before the fish starts showing symptoms like not eating or acting funny or even death
 
How long do I have before the fish starts showing symptoms like not eating or acting funny or even death
There is no definitive time but parasites can gain control of a fish quickly so you want to treat quickly and add aeration along with treatment. Air stone helps a lot
 
How long do I have before the fish starts showing symptoms like not eating or acting funny or even death
That’s a moderately severe case. There are variables, but I’d say you have less than a week before the fish starts to really go downhill.
The ich parasites multiply geometrically, and when they hit a certain level they completely overwhelm the fish.
 

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