Is this testing kit any good?
- Thread starter A2dahlberg
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Greg P
Valuable Member
Short answers;
The NH3 reads too low for my liking to cycle rock, but is a good range for fish
The NO2 is not needed
The NO3 is useful
The pH is not really needed in most cases
The Alk is a beginning if you plan on corals. Then you'll need Ca and Mag kits.
I think you'd be better off telling everyone what you plan on keeping in the tank so we can suggest specific 'single' kits
The NH3 reads too low for my liking to cycle rock, but is a good range for fish
The NO2 is not needed
The NO3 is useful
The pH is not really needed in most cases
The Alk is a beginning if you plan on corals. Then you'll need Ca and Mag kits.
I think you'd be better off telling everyone what you plan on keeping in the tank so we can suggest specific 'single' kits
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A2dahlberg
Active Member
Evo 13.5 reef with beginner corals GSP, Xinia, Hammer, Mushroom, 1 or 2 clowns and a CUC.
Greg P
Valuable Member
Do you have those critters now, or is that your near future list?
Looking to see if the tank has been cycled yet
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A2dahlberg
Active Member
Near future list I don't even have the salt yet should be here on the 8th. Just trying to make sure I have the stuff I need to transition from fresh water to salt. I set a budget of about $100 a month to trickle in the gear. I have tank, rock, Hanna salinity tester, AQUATICLIFE Aquatic Life RO Buddie Plus DI Four Stage Reverse Osmosis Deionization Unit 50 GPD (hope that's good enough) Need to order the heater this month. I also need the rest of the testers. ALK, Ca, Mag.
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Greg P
Valuable Member
This is on the simple side. I'm sure others will add to my suggestions.
Personally to cycle the tank before adding critters I'd get;
NH3 to see it through the cycle
NO3 to know how much of a WC to perform to bring the levels back down after the cycle
Then with your stocking list;
Alk, Ca and Mag kits (the Big 3) to ensure my salt brand is a good starting point, and I'd test each new package of salt after mixing it well.
If you have decent gas exchange with surface water agitation you don't really need to know the pH.
Then regular WCs to keep NO3 down and replenish what the corals are using up.
This should be plenty for you for the long run with your mentioned Softies and LPS (the Hammer)
Personally to cycle the tank before adding critters I'd get;
NH3 to see it through the cycle
NO3 to know how much of a WC to perform to bring the levels back down after the cycle
Then with your stocking list;
Alk, Ca and Mag kits (the Big 3) to ensure my salt brand is a good starting point, and I'd test each new package of salt after mixing it well.
If you have decent gas exchange with surface water agitation you don't really need to know the pH.
Then regular WCs to keep NO3 down and replenish what the corals are using up.
This should be plenty for you for the long run with your mentioned Softies and LPS (the Hammer)
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A2dahlberg
Active Member
I know I can't have an anemone but would this be good with a torch tip, or are they hard to care for? I'm researching them next on the list. I do want to upgrade the pump too. After its up and running save for 3month and get a AI Prime light too.
Greg P
Valuable Member
Probably wouldn't hurt to start another thread in the appropriate section about the torch. But you're going to need to wait at least a couple months for the tank to get past the uglies and stabilize so you can post your water parameters, tank specs; size, flow, light etc.
If you want to know now, just ask something like;
Will this tank hardware eventually support a torch?
Greg P
Valuable Member
Try here about a torch
www.reef2reef.com
General LPS Discussion
Discuss and post your questions about all LPS or Large Polyped Stony corals such as Acans, Elegance, Doughnut, Candy Cane, Brains, Button, Hammers, Torch, Plate, and all other LPS hard corals.
www.reef2reef.com
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A2dahlberg
Active Member
Thanks the torch wont come till way later but eventually (after the light). I hear Hanna kits are the best and after I wet my feet with this 13.5 I'm thinking about a 40 long in the spare room (grow room) for my next tank. So I want to get test kits that I can rely on.
Greg P
Valuable Member
I've never used Red Sea kits but many do with no issues. For the 5 I mentioned I've always used Salifert (after Elos went away).
Hanna you'll want to do some research as they aren't all reliable and for what you need, they may be more of a hassle and a bit more money than titration kits.
I had an afterthought too;
To save some time and bucks, instead of a NH3 kit get a Seachem Ammo Alert and forego any needed testing. For your needs it'll be sufficient.
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A2dahlberg
Active Member
Googlen right now thanks!
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A2dahlberg
Active Member
Wow those are inexpensive.
Greg P
Valuable Member
Which?
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A2dahlberg
Active Member
Seachem Laboratories Ammonia Alert
Tastee
Valuable Member
Once you have cycled your tank there is almost never a need to test for Ammonia or Nitrite again, so cheap API test kits for those are fine. You do need to test during cycling, so need them then, but not after.
I use the Red Sea kits myself so recommend the Reef Foundations kit (Alk, Ca, Mg) and also the Algae Control kit (PO4, NO3). All 5 elements are important, particularly as your tank is stabilising (first 9 months or so). I find regular testing is important to get a ‘feel’ for the tank. Once things are stable You need to test less often, and at that point Alk is your most important number.
I use the Red Sea kits myself so recommend the Reef Foundations kit (Alk, Ca, Mg) and also the Algae Control kit (PO4, NO3). All 5 elements are important, particularly as your tank is stabilising (first 9 months or so). I find regular testing is important to get a ‘feel’ for the tank. Once things are stable You need to test less often, and at that point Alk is your most important number.
Greg P
Valuable Member
Not meaning to bash your post Tastee
I agree with the majority of your post !!
As I stated, Nitrite is not a necessary test - not for Saltwater fish. All it does is let you know some NH3 is being processed. This can be accomplished by watching NH3 start to drop and test NO3. I use NO2 kits, but it's not required if you want to save some money.
Cheap API kits are - cheap. Some are hard to read and/or unreliable. Better to get the slightly more reliable and a bit more spendy kits.
Alk is important, but after you know Mag is high enough to keep Alk and Ca stable.
Regular testing while a Newbie is a great way to get used to a tank.
namfuak
Active Member
I have a Fluval Evo 13.5 as well and went down the rabbit hole.
IMHO, I would skip that test kit as has been stated. I have gone through way too many kits and testers trying things out and found that kit fairly useless pretty quick. The only thing that I thought I might have held onto within that kit was the Alk test, but that titration is a pain having to count drops and ended up buying the Red Sea Foundation Pro.
The foundation Pro has its flaws, but I have found the Calcium and Magnesium tests to be decent, but hated the color change for the Alkalinity titration test. I ended up getting the Hanna Alkalinity Checker which has been fantastic.
I also use the Salifert kits for NO3 and PO4 and think these kits are pretty good. When the PO4 reagents run out, I'll probably opt for the Hanna ULR Phosphate Checker.
Red Sea Foundation Pro ($50)
Hanna Alkalinity Checker ($52)
Salifert Nitrate (No3) Test Kit ($15)
Salifert Phosphate Test Kit ($18)
IMHO, I would skip that test kit as has been stated. I have gone through way too many kits and testers trying things out and found that kit fairly useless pretty quick. The only thing that I thought I might have held onto within that kit was the Alk test, but that titration is a pain having to count drops and ended up buying the Red Sea Foundation Pro.
The foundation Pro has its flaws, but I have found the Calcium and Magnesium tests to be decent, but hated the color change for the Alkalinity titration test. I ended up getting the Hanna Alkalinity Checker which has been fantastic.
I also use the Salifert kits for NO3 and PO4 and think these kits are pretty good. When the PO4 reagents run out, I'll probably opt for the Hanna ULR Phosphate Checker.
Red Sea Foundation Pro ($50)
Hanna Alkalinity Checker ($52)
Salifert Nitrate (No3) Test Kit ($15)
Salifert Phosphate Test Kit ($18)
Greg P
Valuable Member
Never liked the Salifert PO4 kit. Started with the Hanna Phosphate 713 then switched to the 736 ULR Phosphorus
