Is this testing kit any good?

[namfuak]

Never liked the Salifert PO4 kit. Started with the Hanna Phosphate 713 then switched to the 736 ULR Phosphorus

I really wish I would have gone with Hanna in the first place. I'm just glad the Salifert was inexpensive.

 

[Teemingtank]

I know I can't have an anemone but would this be good with a torch tip, or are they hard to care for? I'm researching them next on the list. I do want to upgrade the pump too. After its up and running save for 3month and get a AI Prime light too.

The stock light is kinda garbage on the evo. I wouldn’t add anything outside of gsp/softies till you get the prime

 

[Lasse]

As I stated, Nitrite is not a necessary test - not for Saltwater fish. All it does is let you know some NH3 is being processed. This can be accomplished by watching NH3 start to drop and test NO3.

If you not test your NO2 (Nitrite) - how do you know your real NO3 (nitrate) if you not know how much the NO2 interference with your NO3 readings. This is especially important in the start because - depending on NO3 test kit - nitrite (NO2) can interfere with 50 to 100 times the read NO3 concentration. Rather important in a start when NO2 around 0.5 not is unusual - it means that you NO3 test will show between 25 - 50 ppm to much (depending of which test you use)

If you not believe me - see here Scroll down for English. The video is not in English

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Teemingtank]

If you not test your NO2 (Nitrite) - how do you know your real NO3 (nitrate) if you not know how much the NO2 interference with your NO3 readings. This is especially important in the start because - depending on NO3 test kit - nitrite (NO2) can interfere with 50 to 100 times the read NO3 concentration. Rather important in a start when NO2 around 0.5 not is unusual - it means that you NO3 test will show between 25 - 50 ppm to much (depending of which test you use)

If you not believe me - see here Scroll down for English. The video is not in English

Sincerely Lasse

I think he’s referring to testing regularly. Opposed to ca, mag, and carbonate

 

[Lasse]

In a normal reef aquarium - natural NO2 concentrations can vary between 0 and 0.05 and even higher. My own aquarium have a NO2 concentration around 0.02. I run my tank with a goal of 2 ppm NO3. With some tests (with 100 as the multiply factor) - if I read 2 ppm nitrate with 0.02 ppm nitrite from the beginning - my real NO3 concentration is zero.

The high level of NO3 some people read in a start is normally pure nitrite interference - the real NO3 level is zero. Important to say too - there is no pure NH3 drop tests on the market . They all measure NH3/NH4. IMO - if you should test in your start - a NO2 test is the only thing you need. It should show near zero - a top above zero - near zero and its done. Because NO2 is not toxic to salt water fish - you can use 1 (1) fish as NH3/NH4 source - if you feed very sparsely - you will not even se the NO2 top.

Please read 15 steps - the link is below in my signature

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Dkmoo]

On PH - i wouldn't ignore it like some others are saying. The "old school of thought" (the one I followed for years) is that as long as your alk is stable the PH should be in the right ball park but as this hobby evolved and more knowledge became available, pH's importance to long term successful corals becomes apparent. If you maintain alk at the generally recommend levels, your PH could still fall anywhere between 7.7 to 8.3 depending on your other factors like high co2 concentration. "Keeping your tank aerated/surface agitation" doesn't always help if your room has high co2 to begin with from winter indoors and closed windows.

If you understand how calcium carbonate formation occurs (how corals build their bones) you'll realize that there is SIGNIFICANT difference in the rate of formation between 7.7 vs 8.3. Lower than 7.7 and calcium carbonate actually gets pulled back into the water, literally melting the corals. Google "ocean acidification" and you'll see how entire barrier reefs die bc the oceans PH decreased by like 0.1 to 0.2 points.

My own tank has been "struggling along" for years until it finally started flourishing last few months, and getting my PH to stabilize at 8.3 from 7.7 played a huge role.

 

[Tastee]

Not meaning to bash your post Tastee
I agree with the majority of your post !!

As I stated, Nitrite is not a necessary test - not for Saltwater fish. All it does is let you know some NH3 is being processed. This can be accomplished by watching NH3 start to drop and test NO3. I use NO2 kits, but it's not required if you want to save some money.
Cheap API kits are - cheap. Some are hard to read and/or unreliable. Better to get the slightly more reliable and a bit more spendy kits.
Alk is important, but after you know Mag is high enough to keep Alk and Ca stable.

Regular testing while a Newbie is a great way to get used to a tank.

No issues whatsoever. Lots of people with lots of experience on this forum, always happy to hear other’s opinions. Thanks for being so polite too!

 

[Tastee]

The foundation Pro has its flaws, but I have found the Calcium and Magnesium tests to be decent, but hated the color change for the Alkalinity titration test. I ended up getting the Hanna Alkalinity Checker which has been fantastic.

I agree with this comment, and if you have a level of red/green colour blindness it would be very hard to use as the change from blue to green is subtle.

For those that do use this kit I find a few things help with this when using it. Firstly I know ‘about’ where my Alk is before I test as I test regularly so I know when to concentrate on a colour change. Secondly it is best viewed under a Cool White flourescent globe, such as is common in kitchens, so I test there. Finally you need to carefully agitate as it changes colour.

You can also take a reading when you think it has changed, then add a few more drops until it changes to yellowish, at which point you have gone too far. I find it takes about 3-4 drops to move to yellow, if it takes more then the initial reading was a little ‘under’.