Is this torch bailing out? Something else?

[atruex]

It has been a few days looking like this, and I can't figure out if it is bailing, or has something else wrong with it. Would love some thoughts on what could be happening/if I should do anything, or just leave it. I have 4 other Euphyllias, showing no problems at all, and params all look okay.
ALK: 8.11
CA: 412
MG: 1390
PH: 8.14
Salt: 1.025
Phosphate: 0.03 ppm
Temp: 77f

 

[vetteguy53081]

It has been a few days looking like this, and I can't figure out if it is bailing, or has something else wrong with it. Would love some thoughts on what could be happening/if I should do anything, or just leave it. I have 4 other Euphyllias, showing no problems at all, and params all look okay.
ALK: 8.11
CA: 412
MG: 1390
PH: 8.14
Salt: 1.025
Phosphate: 0.03 ppm
Temp: 77f

Recession due to stress.
One of the biggest issues I have seen is failing to account for the calcium demand for these corals. If there is insufficient calcium in your aquarium water, these corals will not be able to make their coral skeleton. You should also never lift a torch coral out of the water if you can avoid it. You can tear the polyps, and torn polyps are prone to infection followed by necrosis
Torch require typical parameters including:
Temperature about 78 degrees
Salinity of about 1.025
Ph of about 8.2
Calcium level of about 400 ppm.

Like most large polyp stony corals, a torch coral benefits from moderate water flow. The polyps will remain retracted and under-inflated if the water current is too fast because the large flowing polyps are prone to rip and tear in high or ultra-high current environments.
The torch coral is a photosynthetic coral, meaning it has a relationship with symbiotic zooxanthellae (single-cell photosynthetic organisms) that live inside its tissues that converts the light energy into sugar. In exchange for a home inside the coral, the zooxanthellae split their harvest and feed the coral. Therefore, it is possible to keep the Torch coral without any feeding at all. However, all corals are animals, and animals are meant to eat.
The best placement for a torch coral is in a location that gets moderate water flow and moderate-intensity lighting.

 

[blaxsun]

Parameters looks fine. I'd maybe leave it to avoid stressing further and supplement with some food. I like Reef Roids and Nyos LPS Power.

 

[atruex]

Parameters looks fine. I'd maybe leave it to avoid stressing further and supplement with some food. I like Reef Roids and Nyos LPS Power.

Thanks for the response. I have been supplementing reef roids about once a week. I have a cleaner shrimp who occasionally crawls all over it during feeding, do you think that could cause this behavior?

 

[blaxsun]

Thanks for the response. I have been supplementing reef roids about once a week. I have a cleaner shrimp who occasionally crawls all over it during feeding, do you think that could cause this behavior?

It's a possibility, but it's more likely one of several minor contributing factors, ie: the torch may have already been stressed for x or y reasons and the z cleaner shrimp crawled all over it.

 

[atruex]

Recession due to stress.
One of the biggest issues I have seen is failing to account for the calcium demand for these corals. If there is insufficient calcium in your aquarium water, these corals will not be able to make their coral skeleton. You should also never lift a torch coral out of the water if you can avoid it. You can tear the polyps, and torn polyps are prone to infection followed by necrosis
Torch require typical parameters including:
Temperature about 78 degrees
Salinity of about 1.025
Ph of about 8.2
Calcium level of about 400 ppm.

Like most large polyp stony corals, a torch coral benefits from moderate water flow. The polyps will remain retracted and under-inflated if the water current is too fast because the large flowing polyps are prone to rip and tear in high or ultra-high current environments.
The torch coral is a photosynthetic coral, meaning it has a relationship with symbiotic zooxanthellae (single-cell photosynthetic organisms) that live inside its tissues that converts the light energy into sugar. In exchange for a home inside the coral, the zooxanthellae split their harvest and feed the coral. Therefore, it is possible to keep the Torch coral without any feeding at all. However, all corals are animals, and animals are meant to eat.
The best placement for a torch coral is in a location that gets moderate water flow and moderate-intensity lighting.

My CA is currently around 412, so I think I should be good there. I also have it about 1/3 up in the tank, with an XRR15 Pro at 65% intensity. Perhaps the flow is too violent? It gets about what I would consider moderate, but I am still new, so can't be sure. Here is a video of the flow/placement in my tank.

New video · Wednesday, Apr 6, 2022 🎬

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[atruex]

It's a possibility, but it's more likely one of several minor contributing factors, ie: the torch may have already been stressed for x or y reasons and the z cleaner shrimp crawled all over it.

That makes sense, The coral is still fairly new (about 2 weeks) and was shipped, so perhaps it is still recovering. I will just keep what I am doing, and hope for the best I suppose!

 

[blaxsun]

That makes sense, The coral is still fairly new (about 2 weeks) and was shipped, so perhaps it is still recovering. I will just keep what I am doing, and hope for the best I suppose!

I have a branching hammer where one head has recessed like your torch. I'm not sure if it will recover, but the fish kept knocking it off the ledge where I had it and it kept landing upside down.

 

[atruex]

I have a branching hammer where one head has recessed like your torch. I'm not sure if it will recover, but the fish kept knocking it off the ledge where I had it and it kept landing upside down.

Dang, well, here is to hoping for the best for both our Euphyillias!
I could have messed with it a bit when I tried getting it off the plug as well. I couldn't and slightly fractured the base of the skeleton, not sure if that could be a contributor.

 

[blaxsun]

Dang, well, here is to hoping for the best for both our Euphyillias!
I could have messed with it a bit when I tried getting it off the plug as well. I couldn't and slightly fractured the base of the skeleton, not sure if that could be a contributor.

I find the hardest thing is to just leave them alone and let them recover on their own. So far less interference seems to be translating to a higher survival rate, so knock on wood...

 

[vetteguy53081]

My CA is currently around 412, so I think I should be good there. I also have it about 1/3 up in the tank, with an XRR15 Pro at 65% intensity. Perhaps the flow is too violent? It gets about what I would consider moderate, but I am still new, so can't be sure. Here is a video of the flow/placement in my tank.

New video · Wednesday, Apr 6, 2022 🎬

Tap to view!

photos.app.goo.gl

It should be waving in the flow, not swaying vigorously

 

[ReefRusty]

I would say it's on its way out unfortunately, this looked exactly like mine did before losing all its tissue. Hope it recovers

 

[ReefRusty]

I would say it's on its way out unfortunately, this looked exactly like mine did before losing all its tissue. Hope it recovers

Very sad day I lost a 24k torch so devo

 

[atruex]

Very sad day I lost a 24k torch so devo

I find the hardest thing is to just leave them alone and let them recover on their own. So far less interference seems to be translating to a higher survival rate, so knock on wood...

Well, mine is looking worse yet. I noticed what looked to me like brown jelly on it (I have not dealt with this before). I am not sure what to do at this point. One half of it still looks great. I have it in a iodine bath now, and am trying to clean off the jelly looking stuff with a syringe. I thought that jelly killed quicker than 4/5 days.. So maybe is not that.. Figured it can't hurt at this point. Just don't want it to effect my other corals.

You can see some of the stuff I blew off of it here. I also took a video.. Hoping I got all of whatever it was off. I Don't have a QT, so will just try to isolate it and hope for the best I suppose

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[blaxsun]

I've only managed to successfully treat BJD once by dipping in Reef Primer. Since you've already got the frag off the rocks I'd apply the smell test: if it stinks to high heaven, it's probably on its way out and you should either treat with Reef Primer or toss it to avoid BJD infecting any of your other corals.

When removing from the tank it's a good idea to use a piece of paper towel to grab it (this helps avoid anything coming off and potentially landing on other corals).

 

[atruex]

I've only managed to successfully treat BJD once by dipping in Reef Primer. Since you've already got the frag off the rocks I'd apply the smell test: if it stinks to high heaven, it's probably on its way out and you should either treat with Reef Primer or toss it to avoid BJD infecting any of your other corals.

Yeah, I read that on here somewhere prior to taking it out. I smelt it, it wasn't an overwhelmingly bad small, maybe sort of like my filter socks? So I have no idea.. Perhaps it was just dead tissue?

I just set it in my sand bed, in a more mild flow spot so it's easy to get out if it gets worse. The good side has come out a bit. This is ~an hour since I put it back

 

[blaxsun]

Yeah, I read that on here somewhere prior to taking it out. I smelt it, it wasn't an overwhelmingly bad small, maybe sort of like my filter socks? So I have no idea.. Perhaps it was just dead tissue?

Dying corals (especially BJD) have a really repugnant smell that's immediately apparent. I can't adequately describe it, but it's like something's rotting (not like your average saltwater/algae marine environment).

BJD is very stringy, slimy, mucous-like and brown. I'm not sure what the torch cost you, and while Reef Primer isn't exactly cheap (you only need a small amount in a small plastic container to dip) - it might be worth it as a hail mary.

 

[atruex]

Dying corals (especially BJD) have a really repugnant smell that's immediately apparent. I can't adequately describe it, but it's like something's rotting (not like your average saltwater/algae marine environment).

BJD is very stringy, slimy, mucous-like and brown.

Thanks, that's good to know. I didn't play with or touch it much, but the way it sort of flaked and "puffed" out would lead me to think it is not BJD (thankfully)

 

[FiddlersReef]

You can sort of test to see if lower flow would help without actually relocating it, if you have a rock you can set near it to block part of the current. i.e., set the rock at 2:00 position and see if it starts extending after 24 hrs. If not, try 4:00, etc., to figure out what it likes.

Slow process but it lets you test without stressing it by moving it around.

 

[blaxsun]

Thanks, that's good to know. I didn't play with or touch it much, but the way it sort of flaked and "puffed" out would lead me to think it is not BJD (thankfully)

That's good. I dip all my corals using CoralRX and for the odd one that seems to be receding (etc.) I use the more expensive Reef Primer for a second followup dip (which, btw - is the only dip that treats bacterial infections and BJD). I think the one head may recover - I'm just not sure about the second smaller one that's already recessed.

@FiddlersReef has a good suggestion to artificially influence the flow to see if it helps.