Is this what I’m afraid it is

[Dubs83]

I’m in the middle of upgrading my 125 to a 240 gallon and had to move the fish over while I tore down the 125 into two 40 breeders. In the mean time I had a hippo tang and a muellers butterfly fish in QT.

The two QT fish have done incredibly well. Eating within 24 hours, fresh water dip and a rally bath. 7 days in prazi pro then another 7 days in prazi followed by a 14 day copper treatment at 2.0. No sign of illness so after 14 days of observation, I put them over to the two temporary 40bs holding my fish during the upgrade. It’s been 3 days since they’ve made the move and today I spot tiny white dots in a kole tang and the hippo tang.

Sorry about the blurry photos but can someone confirm this for me?

These two are in a tank with a yellow tang, starry blenny and three anthias.

This again is a temporary housing tank until they move up to the new 240 once it’s cycled.

Also, should I assume my new butterfly fish has it as well?

What should my of attack be here considering the situation?

-Paul

 

[Dubs83]

Probably worth mentioning, the hippo and purple are in the same tank holding my corals and inverts during the upgrade.

 

[scuzy]

Sounds like you have ich from your previous tank and they got it from their

 

[Dubs83]

Sounds like you have ich from your previous tank and they got it from their

It’s a possibility, but I have quarantined every fish that has come in

How do I go about treating this in such numbers? Do I simply remove the the corals and inverts and treat both temporary tanks with copper?

 

[Eagle_Steve]

It’s a possibility, but I have quarantined every fish that has come in

How do I go about treating this in such numbers? Do I simply remove the the corals and inverts and treat both temporary tanks with copper?

You could do that or do TTM, but the tank and corals need to sit fathom for 76 days once fish are removed for whatever treatment you choose. If not then you stand a chance to reinfect the fish due to the life cycle stages of ich.

 

[Dubs83]

You could do that or do TTM, but the tank and corals need to sit fathom for 76 days once fish are removed for whatever treatment you choose. If not then you stand a chance to reinfect the fish due to the life cycle stages of ich.

Yea, ugh. My worst fear during this entire process. Okay, let me start treating then I’m off to work

 

[HotRocks]

The fish that were recently treated for 14 days in copper, did you transfer them out of the tank with therapeutic copper to a second sterile QT?

Do you QT all new corals as well? If the other tank had ich present the stress of the move could have brought on the symptoms.

 

[Michael E.]

I could be wrong, but im under the impression that most copper treatments need a minimum of 30 days to be effective. I usually run prazi and copper at the same time for a 31-32 day total QT.

That being said, if it is ICH i would leave your DT fallow for 76 days just to be safe (free of fish only) and isolate the fish into a tank that is running chelated copper or CP (assuming the fish are okay to be dosed with it).

In a sense youre lucky that you didnt find ich in the 240 AFTER you set it all up. What a PITA that wouldve been.

Good luck!!!

 

[scuzy]

To be fair ich isn't that bad of a killer than velvet. I have gotten ich from a frag I bought. But so far my fishes and living with it ok for 8 months and no signs of it except occasional dot here and there. I guess my UV and ozone been doing a good job. I put more stress on the fish trying to catch them all. But if your are starting fresh by all means keep it out.

 

[Dubs83]

The fish that were recently treated for 14 days in copper, did you transfer them out of the tank with therapeutic copper to a second sterile QT?

Do you QT all new corals as well? If the other tank had ich present the stress of the move could have brought on the symptoms.

Yes, transferred them into a sterile tank. (new from the store.


I do not QT coral and that could have very well been the culprit. I have already moved the corals and inverts into a sterile tank and began adding copper to both tanks. Have a new test kit (Hanna copper) being over nighted.

Let me know if you think of anything else I should be doing.

 

[Dubs83]

I could be wrong, but im under the impression that most copper treatments need a minimum of 30 days to be effective. I usually run prazi and copper at the same time for a 31-32 day total QT.

That being said, if it is ICH i would leave your DT fallow for 76 days just to be safe (free of fish only) and isolate the fish into a tank that is running chelated copper or CP (assuming the fish are okay to be dosed with it).

In a sense youre lucky that you didnt find ich in the 240 AFTER you set it all up. What a PITA that wouldve been.

Good luck!!!

From what I ready recently, it’s recommended at 14 days then 14 days observation in a sterile tank. I’ll find the thread for ya a little later as this surprised me as well.


No the 240 is not set up yet, thank goodness

 

[User]

The 14 days in copper then move to new tank for 14 days without copper is towards the end of the ‘how to Quarantine’ sticky by Humblefish, with a lot of work by HotRocks also.

I was surprised too by the 14 days in therapeutic copper, but it’s working for those guys.

I have two new onyx perculas that I’m starting copper on tomorrow or Saturday- depending on their appetite. It was going to be TTM but I changed to this new protocol due to increased velvet in the trade, which TTM does zero for

 

[JoshKReef]

Do you still have any of the water from the copper tank? I'd be curious to see the copper level once your hanna meter arrives.

 

[Dubs83]

Do you still have any of the water from the copper tank? I'd be curious to see the copper level once your hanna meter arrives.

I do not. But I did get the Hanna checker because I always have a hard time reading the color charts.

 

[Dubs83]

Okay, it’s def ich. All three tangs (kole, hippo and yellow) are covered in it. I’ve started to elevate the copper and waiting for my Hanna tester to show up so I can tune it in perfectly to 2.0.

@Humblefish, and everyone else, do you still recommend running coppersafe at 2.0ppm for 14 days followed by a transfer to sterile tank in this situation?

 

[HotRocks]

Okay, it’s def ich. All three tangs (kole, hippo and yellow) are covered in it. I’ve started to elevate the copper and waiting for my Hanna tester to show up so I can tune it in perfectly to 2.0.

@Humblefish, and everyone else, do you still recommend running coppersafe at 2.0ppm for 14 days followed by a transfer to sterile tank in this situation?

Yes 1.75ppm-2.0ppm is the sweet spot.

Also I prefer the 14 days and transfer to a second sterile QT personally.

 

[User]

dang man, I’m so sorry. I’ll cross my fingers for you over the next few weeks. Good luck

 

[Dubs83]

Yes 1.75ppm-2.0ppm is the sweet spot.

Also I prefer the 14 days and transfer to a second sterile QT personally.

Okay, I’m out of space for sterile tanks. I have a 20 gallon tank that’s never been used but I’m afraid it’s not large enough to house all the fish. Any objections to bleaching two 30 gallon brute cans and using those as a sterile “tank”?

-Paul

 

[Dubs83]

dang man, I’m so sorry. I’ll cross my fingers for you over the next few weeks. Good luck

Thanks, Neil! I’m quite confident that I’ll come out of this with no casualties. I supplement food with selcon and every one is eating very aggressively. No sign of stress so let’s stay positive!

Paul

 

[User]

Okay, I’m out of space for sterile tanks. I have a 20 gallon tank that’s never been used but I’m afraid it’s not large enough to house all the fish. Any objections to bleaching two 30 gallon brute cans and using those as a sterile “tank”?

-Paul

I think It’ll be less crowded for them if you use the 27g Black hdx totes with yellow lids from Home Depot. They are PP food safe. I ran one as a temp sump to break in a skimmer and to qt chaeto, as well as an ato container. I checked tds after 6 weeks and it was zero, with zero leached phosphates . Rectangular long vs tall cylindrical.